AH64ID

The spyntec kit is a good idea to do first, the larger bearings are better for the increased weight of the wheel/tire.

Yup, no towing the first 500 and don't exceed 50 the first 500 of towing. At least per the owners manual.

Yeah, that one....

The break-in is for the rearend, not the motor.

I didn't think you were supposed to tow with them for the first 500 miles??

I put about 100 miles on them today. They do transfer more road feel to the truck, but are not rough at all. They track straight on road that are decent or better, and the truck is very stable. I should get a few miles of towing in this week.

Defiantly nothing wrong with that.

Depending on the type of trailer and speeds that isn't bad at all.

He should be happy he had 3 spinning! Nothing short of dual lockers will give you true 4wd.

Anyone with a HX35 as the stock turbo.

The spare is in place, I tried putting it up with the outside wheel face hidden but the offest wont allow it. It's a tight fit with the Titan Class V Receiver, Hellwig Sway-Bar, and MH diff cover but it's all buttoned up. I do pull it aft about 2" with a strap to allow the suspension to cycle with the MH cover.

My understanding is that peak flow of the HX35 compressor wheel is at 3.0:1 and roughly 60 lb/min. It can run more pressure, but you lose flow. That should let you run about 400-450 crank hp, at sea level, at 29-30 psi of boost. If you are at 450 crank hp, but not keeping the boost to 30 then your power potential actually decreases. Set the wastegate to open at 28ish and hold you at 30, then add fuel until you hit a comfortable EGT level, and you should be able to push about 375 rwhp safely at sea level.

I have heard about this before, I just cannot recall the issue. Do the other features work? The sensor in on the drivers side of the intercooler, just to the left of the headlight.

Yup it was full, I fixed it. The new software has a much lower limit than the old software and I didn't notice it was full.

I haven't swapped out the spare yet, that will be today. I don't expect any issues, the tire is almost exactly the same dimensions as my 255/80/17. I do use a ratchet strap to hold it aft and away from the MH diff cover. Initial impression is good, on normal roads they track very well, ride is smooth and stable. They do track a crappy road more than expected, but they are new and the road out of kuna is horrible and failing again. On I-84 into town they were as smooth as any tire I have ran, a friend with them had them traditionally balanced and it took multiple trips so I highly recommend a form of dynamic balancing. They are really reduced body roll around town, not quite as much as the swaybar did, but noticeable. They are at 50psi in all 4 corners where the KM2s were at 50/35, but even with them aired up these are more stable. They are stiffer, and it's noticeable but harsh is not what I would say about them. Truck probably weights 4900/4000 running around right now. I am going to email Toyo for an inflation table. When are you getting your installed?

$630 a corner, ouch....

Yeah it is interesting. The beads seem to work, smooth as glass at up to 75. I like the service that comes with Les Schwab, and the free summer/winter swaps if I put the tires in the bed. I don't want to have to that every year, my gym is 100 yards from Schwab so I just drop it off and walk over to workout for rotations etc. Every rotation, any flat repairs, etc would me me having to remount them at home afterwards. They gave me a good deal on the beads, and I will sell the Centramatics. Only issue with the beads is they only work on 1 tire. It sucks after I spent all the time fitting them, but this is just as smooth.

I will move the mudflaps out a little to match the offset.

I don't think it would be any different than without them. They do block the caliper so you should get less in the brakes. Any change in balance from mud/snow will be compensated for instantly, one of the reasons I originally wanted them.

Yeah, crappy light today.

I like them!

Good news: Truck is at Les Schwab right now. Bad news: For liability reasons they will not remount the tires with the centramatics. Seems silly to me, but oh well. They are putting counteract beads in the tires, so the effect should be the same. I will sell the centramatics, they are a great product but I am not going to install them myself every time I do a winter/summer swap. $180 shipped, my loss your gain.

If I were to buy a 13+ truck I would not be deleting it. There have been multiple improvements to the emissions system and it's just not an issue, folks are reporting a legitimate 20+ mpg on the highway. They also have 385/850 as an option, not worth losing a factory warranty over.

No they don't. They are uniform, the spring compensates and the length/design of the control arms is such that the axle doesn't rotate. It does move foreword and aft a little, but no real rotation.

Unsprung weight is huge, I am getting ready to increase mine by quite a bit. I have slowly been prepping the front end for it over the last few years. I have a steering box brace, Bilstien shocks, Dynatrac ball joints, and Yukon hubs. I am also guessing that with my alignment tomorrow in will find out I need to replace steering components as they were starting to show west at my last alignment 10K miles ago. They haven't had the easiest life with a FAW that is generally over 5K lbs and plenty of nasty roads. Good timing on my part as the current 08.5+ steering now is eve. Stronger than a year or two ago. As far as unsprung weight you have to get fairly heavy to have a greater than stock impact. The steel wheeled dually will have the heaviest stock weight with the DRW spacers and heavy steel wheels. The wheels weigh 41.5, tires 51, and I cannot find a weight on the spacers but I would guess about 10lbs each. The front end is the same on all of them, so I would guess that it was designed around a 100lb tire/wheel combo.