AH64ID

Isn't the in coil, coil-rite, all that Firestone offers for your truck? It is those specifically that state -40°F. I cannot find anything on my rubber bags. From the 2013 Application Guide Firestone Coil-Rite air helper springs are made of durable, elastic polyurethane, providing years of comfort and stability to your vehicle. The air springs will support 500-1000 lbs. per set (not to exceed vehicle's GVWR). Coil-Rite Air Helper Springs are designed to work in temperatures between 180 ̊F (82 ̊C) and -40 ̊F (-40 ̊C).

The product brochure I looked at for coil-rite says they are good to -40. I still can't find a 15 deg reference, do you have a link?

A 63/68/12 would give better spool and low/mid flow than a 71 turbine with a 14 housing, so a much better daily driven turbo and better top end compressor air. If you go bigger than 62/65/12 I would put manifold/turbine blankets on for DD use. The cheetah is a 3rd gen turbo.

I have been using Firestone Ride Rites on my rigs since 07, and dad on his since 97, a total of 4 sets that are all still in use. Aside from 1 schrader valve failure on the oldest set they have been flawless. I personally have had mine at -23F, and dad lived in MT for 2 winters with 3 of the sets seeing below 15F regularly. I have never heard the 15 F rating before, where did you find it?All of our rigs see lots of rough roads, loaded and unloaded, but none have coil springs.

That could just be the rate at which the computer is "up and running"??I have noticed sometimes my SGII or UG is slow to turn on, but never a long crank.

Yeah, shocked doesn't quite describe it. I would still recommend it anyday over the stock 5.9 damper, it made a big difference. But if you ever plan on balancing the motor just get the fluidamper.

I presume you are talking about the lack of OE balance? I was shocked, this is the same part number that is used on a 3400 rpm 480hp 5.9.

Part of my rebuild is a fully balanced rotating assembly, and unfortunately the 6.7 dampers are not perfectly balanced. Of the 2 we tries 1 was 16 grams out of balance and the other 30, mine was the 16. There is also no way to balance them. It it sucks to pull because it has worked so well, but a fluidamper is going on. I can't justify a balanced crank, etc, and then not the damper. So while it sucks I will be able to review them both, thou not apples to apples with a balanced motor and new injectors.

If you are not getting good heat at 190°, but 195° works I would guess there are other issues. If the cardboard is infront of the intercooler then the fan isn't stressed, and generally the fan doesn't cycle as it's too cold anyhow. The OEM front for my 05 covers the entire grill, with 4 flaps in the middle.

It has to be a 2010+ 6.7L, the 07-09's use the same 190° as the 5.9's.If I could find a way to reprogram my fan I would do this as well.

Until today it has also been unseasonably warm, which will have a big effect on mileage. I don't recall, where did you get Marine bodies with 50hp nozzles? Are they the OEM 124° angle or the 03-04 243° angle like OEM marine nozzles?

There will be... just need to find time to take them. The parts are apart, pun intended, but it doesn't change much. It was too hard to see everything when bolted up anyhow. - - - Updated - - - And yet once again my subscription to this thread (and most of them) changed to control panel only.... - - - Updated - - - But for an update. The block, head, and rotating assembly are at the machine shop and should be done next week. The injectors showed up two nights ago, so all I am waiting for, parts wise, are the starter and alternator to be done getting freshened up and possibly an oil pan.

What is the verdict?

Common Rail... enough said. A stock 2004 will have 2x the injection events of a 2002 with the same number miles (okay, rotatoins but you get the point). A 2004.5-2007 will have between 2-3x that amount. Sounds like you need a HPRV. Call Todd at T&C diesel. 763-228-7121 [h=5][/h]

This is one of the biggest reasons that programmers are more popular, they use the OEM wiring and electronics and don't fail. Nearly all of the external modules fail, they aren't built as well for cost reasons.

This is a common sign of the crossover cable being loose or failed. ECM sees normal voltage, and doesn't realize the pass side is being over charged. The temp sensor is also under the drivers side battery, so a hot pass battery won't trip a code.

Seems like an odd game to play!

I got my injectors back, they were out of spec on the quantity at minimum injection time by less than 1 mm3. If it weren't for the fact that I need to spend money to get a different injection angle they would be going back in. At the normal flow rate they are ±1.7%.Not bad piece of mind. So they are for sale if you want a cheaper than new alternative :-)

Cost all depends on how much power you want it to hold, and what you use it for. Not a really good way to get an estimate without a phone call. But I would guess a decent build for mod power and towing is 4-5K, and full race is 8K+.

I had all the parts minus the controller about 2 years ago. At the time, I don't know if it has changed, I didn't like how Fleece actuated the exhaust brake for my 05. I am not sure it would matter on your 98.5, unless the ECM was setup for an EB from Dodge. But in the end the EB functionality was a deal breaker for me, so I went with my Garrett. It's a good setup, fully adjustable map, exhaust brake, and good airflow.

Why use the 04.5 ECM? You could just use the 03 ECM. - - - Updated - - - You should be able to find what you are looking for in the Service Manuals. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=19 - - - Updated - - - Here is an excerpt from my 2005 FSM. [ATTACH]6375[/ATTACH] C-219.pdf

My point was that knowing where they are at might be worth the small cost. Mine run great, never had an issue and they still are failing a test ( I am still awaiting the test results). Many CR injectors fail from one day to the next and you have more miles on them than most. What is the down time worth to you? What is it occurs on a ND trip? When they fail to close they generally take the cylinder with them. Just my .02. I know you don't believe it, but there are several things that could have caused it. The timing cover comes off for other stuff as well, but as I have said in the engine thread there isn't any evidence, none, of damage caused by the bolt. Recall the motor didn't meltdown, in fact it ran until I shut it down and did no internal damage. It was torn down for piece of mind, it could have been "fixed" already but the fear of the unknown isn't worth it. That's my point on 200k mile injectors in a CR. A walking cam gear, or broken cam gear from an external source would be different. When you have to replace your front main you will subject your timing case to the same exact thing your blaming, sight unseen ill add, my failure on. How many people replace front mains without an issue, or fix the KDP? I cannot find a single case where your suggestion took out gears, just sayin...

It's advertised as "2um applications", not 2um. There is a big difference.

Just a small point, but I take filters pretty seriously, Fleetguard doesn't offer a 2um filter. 3um is the best you can report (some sources say 4um), but the FF5320 is a 5um absolute filter.

I would see what you can order online vs NAPA fuel filters.