AH64ID

I have only ever gelled once, thanks to B20. I run Amsoil Diesel Concentrate with Cold Flow Improver in the winter, IF I suspect the fuel isn't winterized. I did add a 2nd heater, the Fleetguard and OEM heater are both 300w elements. If the fuel is gelling in the filter, it's probably gelling in the tank but the tank isn't effected because it doesn't have a filter fine enough to catch the gelled particles. If the fuel is properly winterized a heater shouldn't be needed, but I still like having them.

Dodge/Ram quit using them for 13 model years, my understanding is that it was a decision based on warranty and reliability issues. They brought them back in MY13 and I think it was a huge mistake, consumers asked for hubs but they went CAD. Time will tell on the new system. Like i I said I am a little biased, I have never owned a rig with a flawless CAD except the 4Runner my wife drives now.

Yep!I have owned the vehicle with a faulty CAD and it always seems to fail when you need it. So I guess that's why I'm a little bit biased.

Both are options I have also brought up. The $159 for a posi-lok is apparently too much based on the vehicles value. To me it far more than value, its reliability and operation. CADs are known to be junk and unreliable, I am honestly shocked this is the first issue for this truck.

That's kinda what I figured. So that tells me there isn't a vacuum issue, but more than likely an issue withy the CAD itself. Cleaning might work, and be free but if any parts are needed I would delete the vacuum portion at a minimum.

I generally run in 2wd as well, just depends on the conditions. But it's always nice to have! Another thread, but I really want a transfer case with a full time option. Does it use vacuum to engage or disengage, or both?Posi lok is a cheap and nearly bulletproof fix/upgrade, to me it seems like a no brainier to get it fixed and working properly. It's obviously having issues, so it's hard to say it will always engage and you wouldn't want to get stuck because of it.

I figured it would be more :mad:

But what happens when it fails to engage?

http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_68 - - - Updated - - - http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html

The general rule of thumb I have always heard is 250 for a oil cooled turbo, and 350 for a water cooled turbo (reminder the 6.7 has a water cooled electronics section, not bearing). To to me a turbo timer based on time is useless, the time required varies based on use, ambient temp, etc.. If you don't want to watch you pyro, or don't trust various drivers to, a timer based on EGTs with the probe post-turbo is preferred. At idle the post turbo temps will actually increase if the turbo is heat-soaked over pre-turbo temps, which is why post-turbo temps are the most accurate for shutdown. - - - Updated - - - It's not too bad to idle a hot motor as a cold one, and Cummins has the same warning and time limits on cold idling for all 5.9's regardless of injection system. This is the same in all the owners manuals I have looked at. When I have been towing I try to do the last half mile or so a little slower in a higher gear, don't use exhaust brake, and downshift while braking to increase airflow. Then i use fast idle for a few minutes (depending on pyro, coolant, and ambient), then a little on low idle and off. I have my gauges wired to run for 2 minutes after shutdown and if the pyro increases more than 50 I know there is still too much heat in the turbo and will idle it again, this rarely happens. Just moving oil thru a stationary turbo will not cool it as well as a short idle time. If you really want to monitor mainly for turbo shutdown install a post-turbo pyro.

It's been a little over 2 years since we have had a dog, my last lab was 13. At the time it was a nice break, but now we are wondering how we went without one for so long!Housebreaking a lab isn't bad at all.

Picked this guy up in Twin Falls, Idaho last night. Made the girls (3,5,6) pretty happy! He is 7 weeks.

The injector could be shipped off and repaired, these days most shops will recommend replacing all 6 if 1 fails. The part that had me worries is the EGTs and smoke, random solenoid issues do happen.. But generally it's a no-fire on 1 hole.

I wouldn't drive it until you find something, at least not far from home. With all the smoke and EGT's I would guess #3 stuck open, you might want to check your oil level too.

At at my last refuel I was at 93,211 and 2311 for an average of 33.4. My average since purchasing the truck has been 33.8, and now I will start a new one with the rebuild.

Like every Cummins I have looked up they want 3-5 minutes of operation before a load, and no more than 10. So depending on where you live, and your load I would adjust accordingly. Something to to consider is the effect of cold idling on fuel burn, atomization, and carbon buildup. If you cold idle then drive 5 miles to work it's harder on the motor than cold idling and then running 500 miles at 26K lbs.

yup, probably warms up faster in there too!

PM is private message. My 05 is much slower than it was stock, thanks to the free flowing turbine, cam, and coolant filter. It's SLOW!!

If someone PM's me their ESN I will post info from Cummins. I know for my Common Rail Cummins wants 3-5 minutes of operation prior to a load, and 160 engine temp before full power operation. No more than 10 min of idling in cold temps, especially on a cold motor.

Mmmmmm...... Beer!

It's normal weight for normal height... not like the rest of y'all midgets ;-)

5K complete, 23:02.. not bad for a 220 lbs.

Happy Thanksgiving!We are staying home, and family is coming over. Should be a nice day, once I get this 5K out of the way...

My apologies, I understood the Cheetah to be a 3rd gen turbo based off of an HE351. It appears they have expanded the Cheetah line since I last searched them.

So 2011 was 5°, 2013 is -40°... I still don't think you would have an issue with them, but I would find something that goes outside the coil.