AH64ID

Why did you go with a DD, I don't see anything in your sig that warrants one. The folks I know that have them generally wish they had gone single disk and detuned a few hp if needed. It could be either, at 208K miles it's hard to tell. If you are strapped for cash I would start with the cheaper hydraulics and see what happens. If the clutch is bad I would swap hydro's regardless at 208K miles, so it won't be money wasted. - - - Updated - - - Sounds more like a hydraulic issue.

How was the turbo checked? When my dads was pulled a month ago it didn't appear to be leaking until it was torn down, his oil consumption appears to be gone now. The heat of the exhaust will keep the turbine clean/dry until you get it torn down to the seals. With how it starts/drives it really doesn't seem like injector or rings. An injector contribution test would give the shop an idea if compression was low. Injectors don't make oil burn, they can harm a cylinder but that wold be obvious, IMO. At 115K miles, with an EZ to boot, the injectors will more than likely come back as bad. That will happen on nearly every truck on the road, and does not mean that's his issue. If it were my truck I would have the leak on the valve cover fixed and drive it, if the oil is still being lost I would have the turbo re-checked. After that I would start looking internal. What about the rear main? If the valve cover is leaking it could mask oil coming from the rear main as well. They don't last as long as they should.

Is it the valve cover gasket leaking oil?I agree with checking the turbo for leaks. With it starting normal I don't suspect a ring or injectors, thou the Edge EZ and intake are both bad ju-ju.

Sounds like you plan on missing???

Common Rail's have tighter tolerances and higher pressures, filtration is key. If you click the truck link in my sig and scroll to the bottom of the page you will find a link to how I did my filtration after countless hours of research.

I am not sure how those come into play either. I have been in a truck with 35's, 3.55's, and a 47RE and it had no issues. Even being stock it still had 235hp and 460 ft/lbs, that's not hurting in the power department. It doesn't match today's Cummins, but it's plenty of power to do 85 without an issue.

I would get it running correctly before modifying it, or at least get a positive ID on the problem and upgrade that component only. Sometime there will be codes without a CEL, so you should use a scanner to check.

It's a 4 speed transmission, so OD off means no 4th gear. My Toyota would unlock the tq converter when braking, and yes it really helps increase drag and slow the rig down.

Go with the SBC hydraulics. I was running OEM with my OFE for a while and had very intermittent issues, the SBC fixed most of them.

Start with the simple things, like fuel and air filters. Then work into something bigger.

Simply put, YES!!Don't tow without one.

Just a friendly reminder that these are federal emissions parts, not state. That may or may not present an issue now or down the road. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

You can still find the odd delete kit, but AFIK they are no longer being produced. The EPA stepped in and put a halt on that. Deleting and tuning are done at the same time.

The heater after 2 filters is about as useless as no heater at all. The fuel will gel in the first non-heated filter it comes to, every time. I run 2 fuel heaters, on my first 2 filters, and the 3rd filter in on the engine and the fuel is warm from the previous 2 heaters. Based on that you can guess my opinion. If I gel in my 3rd filter then I guess it was just meant to be. Much of today's winterized fuel is done with additive, and not mixing #1. If you trust the fuel distributors to properly mix the fuel then a heater is not needed. The only issue with that is the test occurs when it's COLD outside. I have gelled once, B20 (long story), and at any temp with a - in it the truck is COLD, very very COLD. FASS has the ability to add a heater to their pumps, and there are several companies that make stand alone heaters. Like I mentioned, you can guess my opinion.

You have probably never noticed, but I tend to over prepare for things The OCD in my preventative maintenance and preparations will probably lead to me purchasing a 5th tire and wheel for a spare. I like to have 2 spares for certain trips, and having a full size spare is a nice thing when your a long ways from home with the family. I mean why buy 4 wheels/tires when you can buy a 5th for 25% more money - - - Updated - - - As far as #7 goes I have seen some trucks where they look factory, 4th Gen's, and some where they look goofy. The worst I have seen is on a megacab without flaps or fender flares. That truck, I see it often, looks like they stick out a good 3-4" more than the other trucks I have seen. All in all I think they will match my truck well, especially powder coated black.

1. No different than an aftermarket 18" rim (going for load rating), maybe cheaper, and stronger with good load ratings. 2. Not enough more to be an issue, especially when you break it down to cost per mile. Slightly higher initial cost, with a longer life. 3. They are close enough to obtain quickly, and in 17 years of driving I have never needed a tire NOW. 4. They have sizes that work perfectly for a range of trucks, so again a non issue. In fact I think the sizing is superior to 17" availability. 5. Nearly every account shows increased fuel mileage. The tires are stiffer and have lower rolling resistance, enough that highway mileage increases. Tires flexing under load really increases the rolling resistance. Operating the tires at 95%-100%+ of rated weight produces a noticeable amount of sidewall flex while driving, one you eliminate that the tire rolls easier. 6. With the upgrades I have done this again is a non issue. 7. I like the look, but I have always preferred the taller skinnier tire. I think my 255/80's look much better than my 265/70s. The bottom line is that 17" tires have a poor selection when it comes to decent load rating short of a 34-35" tire. There are adequately sized 18" tires that have a 3600-3900 lb load rating, but that also involves new rims and tires that have a softer compound and wear out very quickly. There is a tire or two that offer 3750 lbs/tire in 285/70, but I really didn't like how the 285's fit the OE rim width. It took constant tire pressure adjustment for load to wear evenly. 19.5" setups are medium duty, designed for more torque, more weight, and longer life. On a truck that weighs 8200-8400 empty and puts 800+ ft/lbs to the ground I think it's a no-brainer. IMHO there are 2 drawbacks. The biggest, maybe, is that all medium duty tires have a 75 mph speed rating. Not that I do over 75 very often, and when I do it's only 80, but that is what it is. I did talk to some of the local big tire shops and they have never heard of a single speed related issue, even if the tire was overloaded. My heaviest load to date would only put the rear tires at 83% of the load rating. The second drawback is the offset puts the tire out a little more. I don't think it's enough to effect chain fitment, so I am not to concerned. It will add stability.

I think I will get one more season out of my Michelin's, and then I am going to 19.5's. The Type 81 is the only thing available, AFIK, and I plan to get the OEM Black ones. I am looking at the Toyo M608Z. I would prefer a LRF tire, but they are LRG in a 245. IF I can find a decent tire in 245 with a good traction, like you are looking for, in a LRF I might consider it. A co-worker has the M608Z in 245 on his 2010 2500 with Type 81's. He loves them, and hasn't had any winter complaints.

From my 2005 Service manual. The powertrain control module (PCM) cycles the A/C compressor clutch off and on as necessary to protect the A/C system from evaporator freezing and optimize A/C system performance.The 3rd gens (at least my 05) don't have a low pressure transducer, as you mentioned. The PCM uses the high pressure transducer for high/low readings and shuts down operations accordingly.

My 3rd gen cycles the compressor???

Like others have said a/c is used with defrost to dry the air. I owned a Toyota pickup w/out a/c and the windows were almost always fogged in adverse weather.

Coolants and manuals have changed since 2002. The OEM fill is 100K or 60 months now. The block is essentially the same, using more modern coolant is perfectly acceptable and can reduce maintenance intervals. HOAT is Hybrid Organic Acid Technology, and a newer OEM fill for DC/RAM/Ford and others. It's made by Zerex. It is a 150K mile or 60 month coolant.

My dad has been hearing from some of the big diesel service shops that red coolant is going the way of green coolant, which is away. I guess the ELC and other red diesel coolants have been causing damage over time. He first heard the info from a Detroit Diesel service rep, and then did some research on the topic. I would do a VERY VERY through flush and switch to HOAT, Zerez G05. HOAT is known to not play nice with non-HOAT. I do believe there is a Zerex flush out now.

It is a great discussion, and always nice to see real numbers from people who don't embellish. I'd love to get tire wear like yours, but I am not willing to sacrifice a life style

I am pretty sure John's truck is a 24V. Anyhow, when putting the HE351CW on anything but a 04.5-07 you put a blockoff plug in the command valve port and the wastegates operates like any wastegate. You can also leave the command valve installed and unplugged. The intake tube will be truck specific. The exhaust will need a 03-07 downpipe. The HE351CW should spool a little slower, but move more air. The small turbine housing will be good on a 12V with their lower flowing head.

If your talking you vs me then yes I do believe so. 54% of the miles on those tires are towing, very few of them are under 16K GCW. What you have to remember in this instance is I rarely drive my truck as a DD, it's delegated to camping most of the time in the summer. Therefor I have very few easy miles. A vast majority of my empty miles in the summer are on dirt since I tow to the woods and disconnect and drive around. One more way to look at it is average fuel economy. What is your fuel economy average on your tires? My average on my summer tires (I have only had 1 tank since 12 March without any towing, all my towing this year has been 16.5K-18.5K GCW) this summer has been 11.6 mpg. I had a low of 9.26 and a high of 17.84. I have put 5,816 miles on the tires this season, and 3,649 were towing (63%), Even thou it is mostly weekend towing on my truck that's pretty much all it does, so it's no different than towing at the same weight 63% of the time.