AH64ID

Congrats! That’s awesome. I spent a little time at a camp near Brainard as a kid and really liked MN.

So I've been making some progress, but like all projects there are issues. I got the old suspension off very easily. It turns out the springs really weren't that worn out, despite multiple measurements of them. No biggie, the springs weren't overly expensive and the new ones are 5 leaf instead of 4. The bushings were fairly worn, as were the bolts. The shackles were all super sloppy and the equalizer was also worn out. The equalizer was a Reese model I don't think is made anymore. I realized right away that the seals I removed were for 2.25" splines, not the 2.125" splines I expected to find... and had seals for. A quick call to 6 states and they had some, problem solved. This is the 3rd Dexter EZ-Flex I've installed over the years and it was the easiest yet. I did one thing different this time, I installed the bolt heads with the grease zerks inboard. One issue with the other 2 kits is that the zerks are hard to get to with tires on. Now I'll just back it into the shop and use a creeper! I wanted to move it around a little before doing the shock to let it settle any, so the tires went back on. I was pretty shocked when it wasn't sitting much higher as I expected about 1.5". Got out the measuring tape and I had only gained .5". Crap.. I wanted a little more for a level ride and more tire clearance since I'm running taller than OE tires. That was my first issue, and it took me a couple days to decide how to solve it. With the new U-bolts I had just over 1" of threads still showing, so I had room for a spacer but I couldn't find a .75" spacer. I also am not a huge fan of spacers, but then it dawned on my that my Ram has them as did my 05...and if they can handle all that torque I can probably run a similar spacer on a trailer just fine. I also realized that the old springs were 3/8" thick and already had a center bolt hole, and sitting in my shop. I disassembled 2 of them and cut 8 spacers that were around 1" longer than each side of the perch... boom cheap and easy 3/4" lift. I grabbed new center bolt's for $9.50 and got to work putting it all together. This also was very easy. I now have a lot of tire clearance, but haven't hitched up yet to see how level it is. I also got going on the new wheel bearings. I took the hubs off, beat the old races out... I HATE doing that. It's never easy or fun. The hubs were cleaned up, painted, and I installed new races. Packed all the bearings and put it back together. Luckily the brakes were good shape so I can save those for the next time I grease the bearings. I test fit the new seals and was quite shocked that they were so loose. Calipers don't lie, I have the 2.125" spindles I expected... no idea how long the previous seals had been on there but there wasn't any leakage so I don't think long. When I bought the trailer I inspected the grease and it looked brand new, not so much after the 300 mile tow home. Most likely it was serviced not long before I bought it. It makes me really glad I decided to pull it all apart. Luckily I hadn't returned then 2.125" seals yet. Last on the list was the shock install. I'm still only 1/2 way done as I had to modify the brackets to fit my frame. It shouldn't take me too long to do the passenger side. Plenty of clearance and travel. In this whole process I also found a couple of issues that have likely been issues since it was built. The emergency window in the bedroom wouldn't open. I discovered, and a little frustration, that some plastic spacers were keeping it from opening. I had to remove the window to get enough flex in the frame to remove them. Pretty sure the window manufacturer messed that up 10 years ago. I also noticed that the tail lights had a clear lens section, and single element bulb, but they didn't work. I pulled the light out and realized they had the single element bulb, with the clear lens tied into the brake lights...I'm sure that was safe. Looking into the hole in the camper I found a wire with a splice on it that wasn't hooked up. I jumped the reverse probe at the 7-pin and grabbed my multi-meter. Sure enough, it's a reverse light wire. I rewired it and now have reverse lights on the 5th wheel! Pics to follow after dinner.

I find that if the motor is cool to the touch it’s not very messy. The filters usually back drain about 1/3 of their oil by then. I still put a grocery bag around it thou.

This is simply not true. Many people choose to do so, and many shops choose to tell people so because it's easier than discussing pressure for the load. That doesn't make it right, just common practice. ST tires are no different than other tires in terms of running the proper pressure for the load. There are ST tire load/inflation tables around for a reason, it's not for nonsensical fun.

I would say I do the same... it's all based on feel for me. I'll be replacing the OE bearings in my 5th wheel this week and will be setting them one castleation tighter than I would on used bearings.

The pre-load also helps new bearings as they will wear-in more than used bearings. So set new bearings tighter than used bearings. 0-0.02” is what I’ve always used and normally they are closer to 0. @BrokeAssPainter your truck has sealed bearings and needs the higher torque.

One would think so, but I’ve never seen a camper with one from the factory.

It does a couple things. Mainly it reduces the pulse short cycling of the pump during use by having a volume of water on standby. When that volume runs out the pump then runs steady until the tank is refilled. Pump life and flow are improved. It also allows for a reserve of water with the pump off, like when you’re sleeping. The toilet can be flushed or a glass of water filled without cycling the pump.

I’ve been slowly giving the new 5th wheel some love. It got the 300AH lifelines, inverter, battery switch, gauges, converter and auto transfer switches from the TT installed. I had to build a new wider battery box, but everything installed in a similar fashion. I removed the converter and fridge from the general 15A circuits and gave them their own dedicated circuits. This allows me to power the 2 15A circuits with the inverter and auto transfer switches. Don’t mind the rats nest, it’s actually cleaned up from OEM. I still have a little tidying to do thou. I left the 2 gallon accumulator tank in the TT and got a 5 gallon one for the 5th wheel. There is plenty of room for it in the “crawl space”. While I wait for the last couple PEX fittings to arrive I’m going to work on the suspension. The 5er and TT have the same springs/axles but the 5er’s springs show more day, despite the camper showing less wear. It is a little heavier thou. I’d also like to lift it about 1.5”. I found some US made 3000lb springs that will give me about 1” of lift. I’m also replacing the work out equalizer with a Dexter EZ-Flex which will give me about 1/2” of lift. I’m also adding a shock kit and replacing all the bearings while I’m working on it. This should make for a level trailer with more than enough clearance to the bed rails. Tried to get as much US made as I could.

The CP3 cares more about flow than pressure. All 3rd gen and 4th gens thru 2018 use the CP3. Stock is 8-10 at idle and 6-8 cruise. It can dip down to 4-5 under normal operation and is fine. I believe the Bosch spec even allows for some vacuums, but positive pressure is the recommendation. I set the warning light on my 05 to 3 psi and only saw it with COLD fuel, that was with 3 fuel filters and 150 rwhp over stock.

There are most certainly people hospitalized in Boise that have tested positive. Not many but there are some. I have a friend working directly with them. The vast majority of patients are at home thou.

Man that’s some crazy ****, err stuff. all the best to your daughter! It’s awfully scary being a parent. At work we are essential too, but trying hard to maintain some distance and stay healthy incase were called upon to help.

I’m sorry for your loss I don’t have much time in my brothers’17 F-250 but each time I’m in it I respect my Ram more. But in reality they are good trucks too, and it seems Ford might finally have a decent engine again. I do really like how Ford does their front hubs and sunroof!

Stay home, hoard TP. j/k, don’t hoard TP.

That quake was quite interesting! I've been thru quakes before but was still in disbelief for a few seconds as Boise isn't a common place to shake.

That turned out very nice!

I'm pretty excited, more so than I should be for a fuel tank.

The problem with the current numbers and mortality rate is that we know a lot of people have it and aren’t being tested... we just don’t know how many. I’ve seen it estimated that this is less deadly than the common flu, and I’ve seen it estimated as more. I’m inclined to think it’s the lower number, based on how mild the symptoms can be. People with mild symptoms aren’t even being tested for the most part. I’m betting it ends up around polio on that chart, maybe even more to the right... but I don’t think higher. Of course that’s just my opinion based on combining all the info I’ve seen, and my lack of a medical degree. The effect on the economy will be far worse that the effect on the population. That’s what’s so scary about this reaction.

Hmm, doesn’t look like a squirrel cage.

It's installed and ready for a test drive... just waiting on a part to finish my Titan tank install. Removal at the spindle was easy, but removal at the pitman arm was a PITA. All in all it's a good looking piece. Reimbursement form has been submitted to FCA and I'll update with their answer. If they deny it then I'm still happier spending $137 than a ridiculous weld fix.

Dodge was long known for a great Powertrain with a lower quality wrapper.... Ram is not known for that, but carries the previous Dodge stigma. I have had an 05 Dodge 3500 SLT and now my 18 Ram 3500 Laramie. I never had any issues with the 05’s cab/interior but the 18 has a better fit and finish, and feel to it. My brother has a 17 F250 and it’s more like my older dodge than my newer Ram. Yes it has bells and whistles (and a bad *** sunroof!!) but the build quality doesn’t feel like it’s there. Time will tell I guess. But you’re asking these questions on a MOPAR forum, we’re just a little biased. Chevy has good interiors, good frames, decent Powertrain, but also IFS. I grew up on bow tie and don’t want to deal with IFS suspensions on a HD truck. I want a solid axle front end. I’m also a Toyota fan and still own a 4Runner. I’ve had several Toyota’s over the last 20 years and they are great but they don’t have a truck worth buying for use as a HD truck. Same with Nissan, thou the Titian HD is a decent 5/8 ton... ugly, but decent.

I would try to avoid the 07.5-12 6.7 Cummins for emissions reasons. Poor mileage, hard on the motor, etc. It’s also getting harder to delete. I also wouldn’t ever own a 6.7 Furd, but they are seeming to hold up. Hard to do any maintenance yourself though, as they really need the cab to come off for any decent motor work. If it were my money it would go towards a 14+ Cummins. 2500 vs 3500 will depend on use, and transmission desire. The frame/suspension is also greatly improved over the 03-12/13 frame/suspension.

The US had the most cases, but not the most deaths. China still has nearly 3x the deaths. Thou the US death rate will likely rise in the coming days based on how far into this we are. Idaho went form 0 to 3 deaths in a 30 minute span yesterday. You also have to consider the availability of test kits today versus December-February. More people being tested means more known cases. There are still presumed to be a large number of mild cases not being tested/treated.

I went to the downtown Winco yesterday. They are only out of paper products, and some bulk stuff..rice/flour/ some beans. Plenty of other food, meat, fresh produce, beer, wine, etc. the store looked mostly normal and wasn’t very crowded. I also went to Costco for some moonglow juniper bushes and they weren’t busy. Most things in stock. Food is likely to not be an issue now that the initial panic is over.