AH64ID

I don't beleive it to be difficult, but some mechanical knowledge will be needed. If its your injectors I would pull them, ship them to DDP and have them tested.

Thats common, becuase SW9 demands more than the OE CP3 can supply and you lose rail pressure and thus performance.

Turbo is lubed by the oil, CP3 by the fuel. Good oil/filer and good fuel filters will do it. --- Update to the previous post... Oh.. and use your exhaust brake all the time (unless roads are icy/snowy).

I have only ran SW3 a few times, these days I live on SW2.

Correct, you must have flow. The CP3 can draw fuel, but only if there isn't a restriction. One of the design changes on the in-tank was to allow a flow thru when the LP fails, where the engine mounted doesn't.

SW5 is the 90hp tune, and SW7 is the 130 hp tune. I get good mileage on SW3 of the Jr, which is the same tune, just labeled 100hp. The timing is the same in all SW's (presuming the TM is the same).Most folks can run SW7 with stock CP3, and some SW9, but not all. Just easier to put a bag of parts on it and ensure your fueling to the potential.

OEM pressure specs (from Bosch) are -5 to +15 psi, but most recommend staying above 2psi. Interesting on the stumble, I doubt its from a fuel issue. It could be any host of sensors, or dirty injectors. But I would start with verifying fuel psi numbers.

All 3 friends on mine with 6.7's run the XDP additive, which I think (personal speculation) is a Racor additive. If I had a 6.7 I would use the Amsoil additive, just like in my 5.9. Nothing wrong with the proper additives, but sea foam and 2 stroke are not proper for your 6.7.

You leave the factory filter in place.

If you install a raptor I would run hose from the tank all the way to the motor. If the LP is on the motor you will have a very easy job to install the raptor. If it were my truck I would get a doorman to 1/2" hose adapter, run 1/2" hose to a FB1311 filter base with a BF1212 on it, then 1/2" hose to the raptor. Then 3/8" hose (or 1/2") to the OEM canister, then 3/8" (or 1/2") to a GDP MK kit, then to the CP3, with a fuel psi sender just before the CP3, with a "T" in the hose. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=4a-1-17-c-002 http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK20305-APPS I believe every Smarty comes with PoD these days. It has its places, but IMHO, towing isn't one of them. I would also look into Donaldson mufflers, the 40" M085171 is a good choice and they are quite cheap at ryderfleetproducts.com

I pulled it apart and re-torqued the studs, and they didn't budge! These motors are so easy to work on, less than an hour from start to idling. I drove it to work today, and couldn't play too much, but it skyrockets to about 28psi, then slowly builds. I didn't see how high it would go as there was too much traffic, or not enough rpms. In 5th gear drive is about 2psi higher thru 2700 rpms, then slowly goes to about 1.3:1, I wonder if that's the 3rd event? In 6th its dang near 1:1.

Your 04 came with an engine mounted pump, but may have been upgraded to the in-tank. It won't have both. The closer to the tank the pump is the better. I hope your buddy has studs or a EWG to run that 170 tune! It takes a bit of supporting mods to run +170 at its full potential. There are lots of folks that tow on their DD settings, they just watch the gauges a little closer and are easier on the go pedal. But if you tow in cruise you can't control power spikes, and IMHO, that can be very hard on the drive train. You also only have the ability to cool about 400 rwhp sustained when towing. PoD essentially re-calibrates the APPS. So if you were set at PoD 50 the WOT reference to the ECM would be the same as 50% throttle on PoD99. This is how it reduces power, which is fine for a DD but when you tow you need the ability to go WOT. It's not like you are detuning the motor, your just not appying as much pedal, even thou you may be WOT. When I have towed off of PoD 99 the truck is very very slow to accelerate and depending on the PoD setting wont get above a certain rpm, I have been WOT on a flat in 4th gear and topped out at 2500 rpms because the ECM won't push any more fuel, even thou it has the power to go faster the throttle position won't allow it. I hope thats clear as mud.

But no reduced drivetrain wear, 2lo, or mileage increase!I still believe you get what you pay for, and you couldn't pay me to run a cheap wheel bearing like that on my truck... I doubt it lasts 1/2 as long as stock.

Yeah baby!

All I know is that it seems to be nation wide. Maybe send yours off to be repaired. DDP in Monroe, Wa is where I would send mine.

I am pretty sure that with a price like that the lifetime guarantee doesn't cover normal wear!Get a manual hub conversion kit from spyntech.

That is correct, I read some where (Cummins press release) that the vanes improved the efficiency up to 30%. The stock 4" pleat filter is the one to run. I would remove the OEM LP, and put the raptor back by the trans. I would also put a filter head with a BF1212 inline before the pump. 130-170 tunes will probably need a larger turbo, and at least a bag of parts on the CP3. I just installed a Garrett GT3782R Stage 2 turbo. I would support the 170 tune for daily driving, and be killer as a towing turbo on the 60hp tune. I personally don't like the idea of PoD for towing, I will only tow with PoD at 99. I have done short trips from storage to the house on PoD 60 (HUGE mistake) and PoD 85 (really didn't like). Maybe its better with higher tunes, but I won't do it. I prefer to keep the settings where I tow and DD there, still plenty of get up and go... but I also don't ever really get on it.

Gotcha.You will probably see a EGT drop from the 4" TBE, but I wouldn't count on mileage.. but who knows. Yes Airaid makes them. Also see if you can score a lower 90* elbow from a 04.5+.A big line kit replaces the small (less than .25") line from the filter to the CP3, they do help improve flow. The good big line/filter kit is the MK2+ from GDP. Being a 04 you have an HE341 turbo, so you won't get too much tuning with the Smarty before it gets hot on you, maybe +100 hp empty and +60 towing. The DDRP is borderline for that power, I would go with a Raptor.

Your truck comes with a 4" exhaust, so unless its rusted out there is no benefit to an upgrade. Along the lines of the intake the OEM intake will support 450 rwhp with cooler IAT's than just about every, if not all, aftermarket intakes. The best thing is to do a couple cheaper mods that will improve low end flow, cooler air, and outperform the aftermarket CAI for less $$. As for your questions. 1) There are several threads on the bigger forums on installing them. The DDRP will not be an upgrade for your 05, the intank pumps are good units and will push all the fuel you need for a Smarty Jr. Put a fuel psi gauge on it for now. 2)There are several companies that make them, I think auto-meter is one of them. http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/DM-3gk-isd.asp 3) All rail pressure gauges utilize the OEM sender. Its a very easy install you just unplug the OEM sender, put the rail psi plug on, then replug the OEM sender. You want fuel pressure after the last filter and before the CP3. As far as installing the psi sender, are you going to do a big line kit or leave it stock? 4) There is no shift defueling on manuals. There is tq management thou, and I don't know the speed at which is quits, but I have heard 35 mph. What you are experiencing is OEM programming, 2K rpms is a huge power increase, especially at lower speeds.

They are stacked to get a strong bottom end and strong top end. The Smarty fuel harder low and the TST fuels harder higher. Not yet....

I didn't run stock without gauges!I have only had one time where I have had to back out of the throttle for EGT's with the Jr, and really I should have been in 5th, but was seeing if the truck would do it in 6th. But I would still run boost/EGT. I really like my Jr, does everything I need. TST gets good reviews, more of a top end/race tuner where the Jr is a better bottom end/towing tuner.

Looks like the same tread I always have seen.. Maybe I'll ask Schwab, I have to go there tomorrow to price tires for my car.

Bosch specs are -5 to +15 psi, but that's for an all stock pump. I would call Wicked and see what they want since you have modified your pump. Flow is much more important for a CP3 than pressure. But I think the most common psi is about 15-16 at idle.

Do you have a snubber installed?

Just fired it up. No leaks, so I am letting it sit for 15 minutes, going to recheck the oil since I lost a bit doing the studs and then go for a drive. I won't be getting on it for a while, but well see how it reacts in my normal DD style driving. I am shooting for 35-37 max here at 3K feet. --- Update to the previous post... All buttoned up. No leaks, test drive was good. I took it really easy, never over 8-10 psi. But WOW that thing sounds sweet at 3-7 psi, got a nice whistle to it. The exhaust tone is deeper as well, with just a hint of turbine whistle. I am sure it would be more if I didn't have a muffler and a resonator. Cruise boost is about 2 psi lower at 60. It does spool a little slower on easy driving, but really it seems better, haze was down, EGT's were down 50-100* and the motor seems to rev easier. My normal acceleration got me to 2200 rpms before a couple times (where normally it peaks about 1800-1900), the motor just sounded happier. So initial reports are good. I am going to drive it this week so I'll report back. I did do a no-load boost/DP measurement real quick. It doesn't build boost until over 2K rpms, and at 3K rpms its only got 1.5 boost and 4 drive, vs stock which was 7/14, and with the cam 9/18!! Yay for a freer flowing turbo.