AH64ID

3rd gen's take 12 qts. A full synthetic 15w-40 is what I run/reccommend. Can't go wrong with the Amsoil AME 15w-40.

There are a couple reasons why.. Do you know when your ECM was last flashed??

Do the 2nd gen's have doorman fittings on the tank as well? If so I would use the stock pickup with a doorman to 1/2" hose fitting, run that into a Baldwin BF1212, into the Raptor and into the stock canister. From the pump to the canister and then VP 3/8" is plenty, but 1/2" wouldn't hurt.

Depending on the ECM flash the oil psi is probably fake. The only time the ISB is at 40 psi is warm at about 1200-1300 rpms. Hook a real gauge up to verify numbers, never trust the dash on a 98.5+ truck.

As long as you don't exceed tire or AWR (whichever is lower) you are fine. I have determined that SRW (2500 or 3500) ratings are based on being lower than DRW, and have nothing to do with capacity.

I think most guys get their PF7977 fuel filter (5um vs the 10um of the FS19855) for 12-15 bucks.

Good looking tread pattern!Hopefully they last longer than the Federal tires on my car, 50% tread left after only 13K miles.

Amsoil AME 15w-40 year round, and Donaldson ELF7349 filter (15um absolute, best available). For the fuel filter you can run 3rd gen filters in your 01, so run a Baldwin PF7977, best available.

Some info on the OEM cams

Glad to see you made it over here too!

I disagree. When towing with an exhaust brake you want to take advantage of it, why else have it! So if your descending a grade and the EB is engaged and you just touch the brakes with a inertial driven controller the trailer will brake in proportion to the deceleration of the truck, works great! If you want to slow more then add service brakes and you get truck/trailer/exhaust all working together. But if you don't have a inertial driven controller you have to work the service brakes even harder to get the trailer to match the truck/exhaust braking effort. You want your trailer braking harder than your truck, this keeps the trailer from overtaking the truck. Also trailer brakes are cheaper than truck brakes! The exhaust brake is a supplementary brake, but its quite effective and you may as well put its retarding power into the mix. I see the Banks brake in your sig is listed in the "soon" category. I think you will understand better when you tow with one a few time.

When the fuel temperature is below 45 ±8 degrees F, the temperature sensor allows current to flow to the heater element warming the fuel. When the fuel temperature is above 75 ±8 degrees F, the sensor stops current flow to the heater element. Also, I don't think air is as a big of a deal as 2 companies want you to think it is. If it was then you would see OEM air separation on some level, on some enigne.. but I know of none.

I have no doubt they are every bit as good as everyone talks them up to be... I just don't think they can integrate as smoothly on a truck with an exhaust brake. You get no added retarding to the trailer from the exhaust brake, so it's an uneven braking with the truck slowing harder/faster, opposite of what you want.

I am quite happy with the way it looks!

Hand calc or overhead?

I would be surprised if you got back to summer economy. The biggest hit from winter driving is the cold air and its effects on tires, gear lube, air density, etc... You will gain some back, but it still takes more hp to do 65 in 0* weather than in 75* weather.

Gotcha. If you replace the command valve with a plug and drill/tap it for an adjustable boost elbow and set the WG for 35ish psi then it will not be an issue. Also 2nd gen's don't seem to have the DP issue that 3rd gens do, must be the cam or piston design.. as my cam didn't change my DP ratio at all... I could have easily made my WG operational.. but why do that when I can spend a LOT more money on a shiney new snail...

If you are running a HX35 it should have a divided 12cm housing. The HY35 which was stock on an 01 auto has a 9cm non-divided housing, which spools faster and flows just a little less on the top end. A 9cm non-divided is similar to a 11cm or 12cm divided. The HE351 is a 60/60/9The HY35 is a 54/58/9The HX35 is a 56/60/12 on 24V trucks.

When I weighed my truck/trailer what I did was start hooked up and did the following. 1) Front axle only2) Both truck axles3) Trailer axles only (pulled the truck off the scale just far enough so the truck wasn't on, but the tongue jack was over the scale)4) Disconnected the truck and trailer with trailer and tongue jack on the scale. The sum of 2 and 3 is your GCW The difference in 3 and 4 is your tongue weight. If you want to know how the tongue weight is distributed you will need to re-do 1 and 2 without the trailer. And if you do that you can skip 4 on the scale.

My 98 ranger did the same thing when on face/floor.. I haven't noticed it on my 05, but also have listened/looked for it. I wonder if the duty cycle is difference with the a/c switch on. --- Update to the previous post... Well I pulled this from my 05 Owners Manual.. It appears it only operates in the mix/defrost with the a/c off. My Ford manual specifially stated which levels it worked it. NOTE: The air conditioning compressor operates in both Mix and Defrost or a blend of these modes, even if the A/C button has not been pressed. This dehumidifies the air to help dry the windshield.

I honestly have no clue, and haven't ran them. I have only read good reports on them thou.

I have been reading good things about these ones. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/retro-solutions/339346-dodge-ram-digital-hid-kits-no-flicker-no-errors.html

You boys all got very lucky!

Can't really complain about those pressures. The reason the pressure goes up with temp is becuae the fuel warms up, and is easier to pump.

Your just on the edge of the rating for those bars, which is probably why there is so much tension on them.