AH64ID

The P551315 has a slightly better rating than the BF7634. That is the first post I have read where the P551315 had fitment issues, thou I have read about several with the BF7634. I guess there are some allen screws in the AD that interfere, but there is nothing they hold on or keep out, so some folks have removed them to make the BF7634 fit.

I don't... I need to find one thou. apartsdepot.com is supposed to have good prices. I need to check them out

The best filters to run are not what AD supplies. They are decent, but certainly not the best available. For the f/w sep you want to run the Baldwin BF1275 and for the final you want to run the Donaldson P551315. You need those filters, not crosses. There is more deviation in flow and ratings in these filters and their crosses than any other I have seen, so don't get any crosses. I don't recommend Wix fuel filters for anyone, I have yet to find one that actually has the same specs as the filter it crosses to. --- Update to the previous post... I have added specs in red. The P551315 is 3um absolute and over 100GPH (don't have the specs with me right now), but is the exact same media (just a little less) as the P551313 "2um" Cat 1R-0750 cross. BF1275 99% free water, 96% emulsified water sep, 120 GPH. You can see why I say use the P551315 and BF1275 only.

Is the rattle associated with rpms or mph?For the code get it read first, then well see what it may be.

Until I saw the recall verbage I was trying to figure out how you had a 14 year old CR!!If its a recall it should be covered still.

From what I gather it boost fools on all 3rd gen 5.9's. The 04.5-07 are the easiest to get more boost out of since the WG is controlled by the ECM. So boost fooling also kills the WG and more boost results. I know that you can get 40psi out of the stock turbo on an Edge! 03-04 will require an adj boost elbow to get more boost, and 04.5-07 require nothing additional. The hole allows air to bleed off so your not building pressure in the WG line as fast as stock. They aren't hard to build, but are cheap to buy.

Your experience is why I think lights are a waste of $$$$ on a CR. 2 psi is the lowest you want to see WOT. I would get a gauge and a Smarty, along with a big line kit and hi-flow inlet banjo and see where you are. At +100hp at 3 fuel filters I don't get below about 4psi WOT, but have a big-line kit and no stock banjos.

Very interesting. For those things they should be. There is a slight difference in how the valve cover/rocker cover mounts. But if you have any questions let me know and I'll reference my 05 manual.

It's a bypass filter. They get about 10% of the oil at a time and super cleans it. The best full flow filter you can get is 15um absolute, bypass filters get down to the 2um range. Most wear occurs in the 5-7 um range.

Your neon or Volvo doesn't have 2350lbs on the bearing without a load.

The NUC is for oil, and the GDP is for fuel.. use them both.

The pdftown one didn't work for me either, but I just downloaded the other one and it worked perfect. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=120

Correct, its special hose and fittings. I have never used a hose clamp, and never had a leak. You can't pull it off, you have to cut it off.

The push-locks are pretty good fittings, I haven't had any leak. The fuel filter isn't a bypass as all the fuel goes thru them, and it continues onto the injection pump.

Yes.

Correct. I would also recommend using either the Amsoil EaO80 or Donaldson EF7349 full flow oil filter, best on the market. I dump my oil once a year or every 15K, even if the UOA says good for continued use.

Yes, you want to measure your supply fuel pressure. This is how I monitor mine, its between the GDP filter and the CP3.

That's just part of their marketing hype. Only getting part of the oil is standard for a bypass, otherwise you would take too much oil from the lube system. There isn't a bypass system out there that removes the full flow system, nor one that takes all the oil. It's called a bypass because the oil bypasses the engine, just gets filtered and pumped back to the pan. The bypass will still get about 10% of the oil when cold, but it has less flow. The amsoil filters (full flow and bypass) have excellent cold flow properties due to the design of the synthetic media.

All good, same filter I run. But I don't get the partial bypass part, that's a full bypass setup and that's what you want. Are you calling it partial because it only gets part of the oil at any given time? If so, that's how they all work.There is no thermostat on those, so it still goes thru the bypass when cold, but that's fine.

GDP?Glacier Diesel Power

It's hard to go wrong with GDP parts/pieces.

That is because rail psi is specific to the truck, where any fuel psi setup will work. These days I recommend the ISSPRO EV2's, 0-40 electric. http://www.hsperformance.com/mini-maxx/ As a tuner/gauge it can monitor lots of things. That's backwords. Idle should be 9-11, WOT no lower than 2 psi.

Not at all. It actually builds a little slower than stock at first (normal driving), but when you give it fuel it lights and lights very fast, but smoother than stock. I think the restriction on the stock turbo made it light faster and not as smooth on the throttle. Under normal driving it's less boost, but smoother and seems to be quicker. I haven't been driving as easy as normal, but the OH is up by .5 from just before the install, that can't be bad! I keep telling people, this is how the truck should have been stock. There is nothing the stock setup does better.. If you can't tell I like it! I won't be towing with it for a while, but if the towing gain is 1/10 as good as the empty gain it will be night and day different! --- Update to the previous post... I installed the manifold blanket last night. Great fit, pretty straight foreword to install. Levi makes a great product! The turbo blanket will probably be this afternoon!

I would start with fuel psi, and do rail psi later. The H&S (seems to be best package for the 6.7) has the ability to show rail pressure.. so save for that. Fuel psi is about 9-11 on a stock motor, and OE specs are -5 to + 15 (from Bosch), anything over 2 is considered fine on a stock CP3. Yes you can see fuel gelling in a fuel psi gauge, don't ask how I know....

Make sure its the fancy (i.e. $$$$$$$$) Bosch machine, I don't believe anything else can fully test them. I understand there are only a handful of them in the country.