AH64ID

I was thinking the same thing as ISX.. So I wont re-type it

If the 2nd gen injectors are as good as I hear the 3rd gen ones are then they are great.If I ever do nozzles it will be DDP 50's.

I really need an outdoor temp in my DD, it drives me nuts not knowing the temp... I kinda like the looks of this one, and the price is right. I may check it out.

Towing Guide http://www-5.dodge.com/towing5/D/vehicle_to_weight.jsp Generic Build Sheets for 2004+ http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf To get a build sheet for your truck email them with your VIN and ask for a build sheet. http://www.dodge.com/wccsapp/universal/D/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Dodge&familyStr=brand&franchise=D&actionURL=%2Fwccs%2Fbrand_forms%2Fus%2Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U

Bummer.. Thanks for the info!

I have read a few threads about how they are just bolt on upgrades.. I'll see what I can find. ---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:41 PM ---------- http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/160226-my-3rd-gen-brake-swap-pics-56k-beware.html Are 01's and 98's the same up front?

Its too bad they only put them on the power wagons! They would be useful on all 4wds.. But heck my 4wd didn't even come with a xcase skid, had to add that myself.

I would start with the obvious.. Fuse and wiring hooked up to the cruise module and steering wheel.

Thats not a diesel :-)I have thought of running one of those skid's on my truck thou.. not sure how sturdy they really are.

The folks I have talked to have gotten about 10K more usable miles from MT's than the AT's I ran... My AT's were useless at 25K miles, I only got 40K out of them due to 2 run to AZ, and a mild winter. So if get 25-30K out of my M/T's then I am happy!.

I would be happy with 40K decent miles! Tq kills tires.. And tires that get good traction are a little softer. Some friends with diesels are getting good mileage with the BFG AT's, thou I doubt 80K miles. I am also quite certain that a M/T will outlast a A/T in a high torque truck, assuming the rubber compound is the same. The reason being is there are fewer biting edges and the lugs are bigger, so the tq can eat the tire up.

I ran RS9000's for a while on sevarl different rigs.. They are cool to adjust the first 3 times, then its just a PITA, and honestly once you find a setting you like it works for all conditions. Now I would much rather just have a shock that is valved for my application. My next shocks will be the silver/blue Bilstiens.. Was really fond of the bilsteins that came OEM on my Tacoma, and the silver/blue are supposed to be even better.

I agree, those valves look very scary to me!! As it is without a level kit the oil pan is level with the axle tube, that's 90% of the reason I have a level kit on my truck. What I would like to see is the drain plug sit horizontal in one of the aft corners. I bet more than a qt of oil is left in the pan when you drain it out. If the pan weren't such a PITA to change I would make a custom pan and sell it.. It would have cooling fins on the bottom/side, be about 2" wider and have a plug that allowed all the oil to drain. It would also have a port in it for a 400w heating element (like toyota uses on their 4.0L all alum blocks)... Now how nice would that be!

It all comes down to how you plan to use it.. There will be a noticeable difference in HT vs AT vs MT..Since I was using my truck as a DD for a couple years I ran an AT, and lacked what I wanted when camping/hunting/etc... Now I have a car for a DD and switched to a MT, couldn't be happier... AT's are great because they do a good job of both on and off-road, but aren't the best at either.. not bad, just not the best. We run a HT on my wifes rig as it doesn't ever see dirt, and really all the siping in an HT makes it a good ice tire.

Its not that much :-)

Be pretty funny if it was a CP3.

Me too!! I don't want my wife driving my truck (she gets hit on too much, even with 2 kids in it).. :banghead: Let alone do I want her to fuel it.. I mean there is additives to add, and data to record (you know..date, odo, miles, gallons, price, cost, engine hours, trip hours, o/h mpgs, miles towing, trailer towed, usage for tank), then you have to fill the equations in on the spreadsheet that tell you mpgs, total cost, avg speed, cost per mile, o/h error (actual and %age), towing %age.... The wife would just say i am a dork and not do any of it

I wasn't fully sure what to expect. There isn't a lot of data out there on such a mild cam, I knew there would be improvements in EGT's, spool, and hopefully mileage. I have seen the EGT and spool improvement, and just dont have enough miles for the mileage to be sure. EGTs are lower for the same boost level thats for sure. I am sure the HE351 doesn't take as huge of an advantage of the extra air as a 62/65/12 would, the 9cm housing is working for all its worth with the stock cam. I did a no load test of boost and DP and this is what I foundStock (Boost/DP) Cam1500 0/1 0/.5-.752000 2/3 2/3 2500 4/8 5/93000 7/14 9/18So as you can see the air it moves it quite a bit more. Honestly in day to day driving its not really even noticeable, and I was expecting to see a little more in a DD situation, but when I think about it the grind is quite mild, and more of what it should have been from the factory and not a huge performance gain.. Which is exactly what I wanted.So in having driven it and know what the results and specs are, its exactly as expected.. Its only about 90% of pre-install expectations.. if that makes any sense. I would do it again in a heart beat, I really like the feel it gives the truck with a load.

Cam has been in for about 1000 miles now, over 600 of which have been towing. So far I am quite happy with it. The changes are very minor, as we expected. But I have noticed the following..Turbo spools a little bit quicker, and seems to get to 25 psi much faster than before. From 25 to 30 is about the same as before, but with the intake valve being open 12* longer with 0.014 more lift 30psi now is much more air than it was before, so really its moving more air at a faster rate. The truck is much smoother at low boost, due to the increased air. It also seems to pull from lower rpms easier. Thou I lugged it a little in 3rd yesterday with a 15K lb dump trailer and blacked out an intersection in 2 seconds (8mph in 3rd), quick downshift made the smoke disappear and the truck scoots!Bottom end smoke is reduced slightly, not as much as I was hoping, but I think that has more to do with Smarty Jr timing than anything. No real honest reports on mileage, it appears to be up a little but I have been towing a lot, and not using the truck as a DD anymore. I also went to a M/T tire just before the swap so more changes. Towing the EGT's seem to be a bit lower 75* or so when pulling hard up long hills. Crusing they are maybe 25* cooler. I had to change the TQ management on my Smarty Jr from default to TQ3 (less aggressive) for timing rattle that really increased with the cam. I also went to SW2 and it decreased more. I am now running SW2 TM2 TQ3 and it really likes it. The exhaust is still a little 3rd gen raspy (mostly the exhaust manifold), but it does sound better. Overall I am quite happy, I would like to get some cruising time in to see how it does on the hwy, but nothing is planned.

You won't ever catch me using seafoam on a HPCR.. I have used it with good luck on gassers, but it won't go anywhere near my Dodge.

That sucks, hopefully thats all you damaged..Upgrade time :-)

I have never had that issue... Since the CC is all ECM controlled and actuated on the 05 I would start with what normally cancels it.. bad brake switch or faulty cancel button would be where I would start.

Hmm... quite interesting.. .I guess the easiest thing it to change fluid and see if that fixes it. I have ran Amsoil fluid in many different trans and the only issue I ever had was with Toyota truck syncro's.. They don't like GL-5, but that was long before Amsoil came out with manual trans specific fluids.

Which fluid did you get?Are you positive its not a vib in the shifter then takes that rpm to manifest?

Actually 3rd gens use the sensor in the manifold for Intake Air Temp as far as the injection and calculations are concerned. The sensor before the manifold is mainly used for ambient pressure to compute boost. The temp in that sensor is also used to verify grid heater operation and requirement. My IAT's are about 8-12* above ambient when cruising w/ a/c off, about 10-15* with a/c on. When towing on the flats they are about +15-20*, and when towing hills at 30 psi they are +30-+40. I have seen +45 this year, but the OAT was cooler, the IAT's never seem to get above 130* even when pulling large hills, with large boost, and the a/c on on a 95* day. My IAT's run 5-7* cooler with all the mods I have done, home depot CAI, GDP Intake horn, and Airaid MIT. Until my enigine is at operating temp my IAT's are withing 1* of ambient, unless I hit a stop light, then they go up, but quickly drop to ambient again. Something else I have notcied since my cam install (thou it doesn't mean its from that, just when I noticed it), it that my IAT's jump rapidly when the exhaust brake is applied.. about 10* hotter than they were. This is due to the air flow stopping and sitting in the manifold long enough to get heat soaked.. Turn the EB off and they drop instantly. Cummins has also put out, in non-specific diesel data, that the IAT should never exceed +30 from the ambient temp. So what data do you believe? I have a different theory on the mpg vs ambient temp... Cold air is more dense, so on a gas engine it does need more fuel to maintain the magic 14:1... But on a diesel the air:fuel is set, so you actually get more power and efficiency with cooler denser air (provided you are running hard enough to keep cylinder temps up). IMHO, what kills mileage in the winter is that cold dense air, and its effect on the frontal area of the vehicle as its traveling thru it. My boost doing 80 doubles from 50* to 0*, it goes from 7-10 to 15-20.. empty cruise. You also have the additional hp required to roll the harder tires, the gear lube is colder, the trans is colder, etc... Those of us that have improved the cooling ability of out trans and diffs are also making them harder to keep at optimal temp when cruising empty in 0* weather. All of those parasitic drains on hp are a much larger impact on a diesel rig that both cold IAT's and winter fuel.. But as we all know its just too easy to blame winter fuel.