AH64ID

From what I can tell that is only on auto trucks... SW doesn't make a difference on manual trucks for cruise mileage.. just timing. I do get the best mileage on TM4, but WOW my oil PLUGS with soot.. don't think I'll run TM4 again.

Wow.. great numbers!When I went from ID to AZ this winter (twice, and back).. I averaged 16.46 over the 5046.6 miles, which I still considered pretty good. About 85% of the time the cruise was set at 80. My average speed was 64.54.. I had 2 tanks average over 70, and one over 75. Thou I do have a level kit and fender flares, I don't think either help with mileage. I also had a bed full on both trips, but under the rail. The trips were also with much colder air, which IMHO, makes a big difference on mileage.

I decided to do a little plumbing work last night. I moved the return to the heater core return. I don't think I was getting the full flow I could have with it plumbed the way I did. I originally hadn't wanted to run it thru the heater core return becuase the area is small and the fittings are large.. But it was actually quite easy and looks fine. I used about 8" of 5/8" heater hose, a 1/2" NPT "T", 2 1/2"NPTx 5/8 Barb, and 1 1/2" NPT x 3/8 barb. All in all the swap took about an hour, including the coolant drain/fill.

Oh yeah.. didn't think about atmosphere pressure...x2 on the 1.3..My service manual shows my compression ratio at 17.2:1, with a minimum cylinder pressure of 350psi.

Hope I am doing it correctly :-)17.2 (compression ratio) x 35 psi boost.

With a 17.2 compression ratio the cylinder pressure at 35psi of boost is 602psi, when you ignite that air the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 2000 psi.

I recently installed a coolant filter, and based on what I thought, and was told, at the time I plumbed it the way I did. I have the "pressure" coming from the head, and the "return" going to the block. I also recently realized that the flow of coolant is from the block, thru the head, and back to the pump, or radiator... So I am wondering if my filter is filtering backwords? So can anyone help confirm or deny this? Is the pressure in the head or the block greater? Thanks

Yes and no... The only aftermarket fuel system that has better overall filtering than stock is the new platinum from FASS. Neither the FASS nor AD setups remove anywhere near as much water from the fuel as the stock setup, and the FASS 95 can only be fit with 10um filters... I swear when I started researching the specs on the FASS and AD systems I thought for sure the mfgrs didn't even look at filter specs, just played enie menie miney mo..

I finally got around to installing the coolant filter I bought at the end of last year. I tried to install it when I did my coolant flush in December, but I couldn’t find a plumbing/mounting option I was happy with, so the filter went back on the shelf. I finally figured out where to mount it last month when I was installing my Home Depot CAI, the bracket fits perfectly on the bumper bracket behind the fog light, and there is plenty of room for hoses to run. I had heard in passing that the block offered lower coolant pressure than the head, and that there was a coolant port behind the oil filter. Last week when I was getting my cam installed I confirmed this with Pat at Big Twin Diesel, and he said he had used the ports I was talking about in BB twin setups, and it would indeed flow. So I had a mounting/plumbing plan that would work, so I waited until I did my oil change today and tackled the install. The first thing I did was drain the coolant. Once that was done I installed the fittings in the block/head. I used the ½ NPT plug between 5 & 6 in the head, this is where the most pressure and heat exists. I am using 3/8” hose, so the fitting is a ½” MPT x 3/8” barb. The fitting in the block is the return, it’s a 18 x1.5 o-ring metric fitting. I then put a 3/8” x 3/8 MPT barb into the o-ring fitting. I then mounted the filter to the truck, and figured out how to run the hoses. Once that was figured out I removed the filter head and got the fittings tight. Once that was done I got all the hoses routed. I zip tied and put anti-chaff on where appropriate. This is all you can see when the wheel well liner is installed. The filter itself is essentially level with the bottom of the bumper, and well above the valance piece. I have found that the filter gets to about 100-110* (based on feel, and length of time I can hold it), before the thermostat opens, and about 140* after. This filter should help increase water pump life, and overall cooling system efficiency. I am also expecting it to decrease the pressure in the head by 5 & 6 as well as decrease my coolant temp by a couple degrees when towing.

I have only had my current filter setup for one change, but that was 30K miles. I only saw a .5-1 psi drop from when they were new. 30K miles is the most I will run a set of filters, otherwise I go off pressure. If your referring to the AD FF5613 its a 5um, if you want I can send you the Fleetguard spec sheet.

I run a Donaldson 40" M085171, quite happy with it. Before I added a mega-cab resonator it was fine, a little loud when towing above 2200 rpms, and too loud with the exhaust brake on... But all in all its a great muffler, and it has a very high flow rating.

While I haven't had one apart before either I was shown my cam/tappets vs a cam/tappets with over 100K miles on them. Mine looked older and more worn. Not sure the best way to describe it, but there was minor pitting, ridges, and such on my parts that wasn't there on the other set. Needless to say I was shocked, as I run 2um filtration and good oil, and have done analysis.

Well I can say that I am less sold on UOA being the most accurate way to extend oil life. I have been running amsoil, with a bypass, for the last 45K miles. The current oil has 22K miles on it, and was cleared for another 7K miles of use. I have done UOA's every 7000-7500 miles for the last 45K miles. Well I pulled the cam last week for the install, and the cam and lifters showed significant wear, much more than the 56K miles on them should have showed. The crank was also significantly scarred at the seal and required a speedy sleeve. All my UOA's have been okay, and told me to to continue use, even when I changed the oil 22K miles ago... I will still run the oil I am running, but its not going past 15K miles anymore.

Hard to go wrong with the Donaldson's. I paid about $65 for mine, and flows a TON. The 40" is a good volume, not loud, no drone, only real noticeable when towing at upper rpms. The 51" is even quieter.I run the M085171, the M090544 is the 4" 51" version.

A lot has to do with the gen of engine. Like my HPCR has a big fueling jump at 2000 rpms, so I like to tow above it thru hills... But that doesn't mean I always can or do. 2200 seems to be the "sweet" spot on the HPCR.. Thou with the mods I have done I have brought the point where the motor makes 30psi down 100 or so rpms to 1950, and haven't towed yet... So I'll see when I do some towing if that lowered the sweet spot. I am also confident that the cam going in next week will drop it another 100-200 rpms to 30psi. So again, really depends on the motor gen.Since 12v torque curves are more of a peak it would be best to tow +- 100 of the peak.. Where the HPCR is a plateau I can tow effectively over a broader range. But there are times where rpms and hp are more important than tq.

I agree with the rest of the guys.. now if it was a HPCR it would probably be fine, but not for a VP44 truck. Get the New FASS Platinum, cheaper and better overall filtration than the rest of the setups.

When replacing the AD filters the ones you want to use are the FF5613 (5um and best available), and you want to switch the f/w sep to a Luberfiner LFF9594 (75% emulsified/95% free @ 90GPH)The OE AD f/w sep is only 50% free water sep and 0% emulsified water sep at 20GPH. Stock is 95% free and 95% emulsified water sep.

I just spoke with Amsoil.. They cannot say nothing bad will happen to their oil with the ZDDP added.Anyone ever done it?And for normal operation the AME starts with 1377ppm of Zinc and 1267ppm of Phosphorus, which is more than adequate for normal cam operation. For cam break-in its recommended to have at least 1000 ppm for cam break-in and a my last UOA I was at 975, so I need to do something.. just not sure what. My preferred method would be add ZDDP to the AME for break-in, then change the oil pretty quick... any thoughts?Doing the math 3 bottles of ZDDP would give me 2176ppm on Phosphorous and 2900ppm on Zinc.. should be good!

Stock on a 3rd gen is INT 163* 0.237, EXH 191* 0.299 with a 98.5* lobe sep.Stage 1 is INT 175* 0.251, EXH 206* 0.297 with a 103* lobe sep. Very similar lift/duration to a 2nd gen, and lots more intake than any stock cam.

I broke down and ordered a Cam. Its a Colt Cams Stage 1. Its their mildest grind, but since I dont have big power plans I am not worried about bigger grinds. It also is the same cam that PDR sells with their name, and it gets good reviews, espeically with stock turbo's and exhaust brakes. Should be good for 100-200* EGT drop, 200-400 rpm quicker spool, and 1-3 mpgs. Its getting installed on the 26th. I'll be sure to do a good review post once I get a few miles on it.

You should be fine if its set at zero.

Ever get it figured out?

The Smarty has the most current (at time of update) Dodge program loaded in it, and it will return your truck to that when you go back to stock..Example.. your truck has stock software AA on it, but AE is the most current, the Smarty will put your truck to AE when it goes back to stock. It also uses AE to get its "baseline" for the Smarty tunes.

I am very happy with my Amsoil setup. The link that Michael provided is my truck.

I agree 100%, which is why 1/2 tons shouldn't be towing TT's, even if they only weigh 5K lbs.