JOHNFAK

Put some air to the boost elbow and make sure the wastegate is opening. Dont think you need a new turbo - check wastegate opening first (at what PSI) and also boost leaks and any shaft play in the bearings. If you decide to upgrade from stock - look at a he351cw off a 3rd gen .... or a hybrid 60mm compressor wheel.

Look what came today. This is what $1300 looks like !!! HAHAH Turbo should be here later this week. :thumbup2:Starting monday morning if all aligns well

If your just after mpg stick with rv275 and a small timing box like powerpuck. Will generally pick up 2-3mpg

Yup ^^^ Bad for turbos Nothing to do with programmers Controlled with your foot If its done bad enough you can push oil through the seals into the compressor housing or snap the shaft

ahhh

<== me laughing WITH you ................ :banghead: Only time till it happens to me unless I get http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/hellman-performance-fuel-tank-sump-p-28514.html

Consider this when you do it http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/160226-my-3rd-gen-brake-swap-pics-56k-beware.html

Awesome - this is what I had heard elsewhere also. So centric over raybestos ? Also what pads - was looking at akebono ?? Any idea ??

thanks guysthink I might use the grinder brush idea to get most the rust off and then treat with something like that JASCP prep mentioned and try this POR15 out - had remembered you mentioning it before russ - if it works well on rv - might do to truck from as well - just a little more carefully

Here On my rv not truck

Ill try and get a pic up - its dark out now.Dont like the idea of 40 hours of grinding and painting.

dont you still have to brush all the loose rust off ?And that will take away teh paint and then leave it kinda orange/rusted looking after the naval jelly is washed off .....at least thats what it did to my stairs Ground as much raust paint as I could off, applied whole bottle of jelly , washed off water.Then 1 coat rust preventing primer - and 3 coats of black. -6+ hoursLooks good - but man that frame is much bigger.

Ha - then your good waiting for the word ...

New office thanks to wife's measurements Tv Lazy boy recliner

-Sanded and resprayed my steps today as looking a bit rough.Notice the whole frame has a fair bit of surface rust where the black paint is starting to bubble.6 months in CA on the ocean.Whats easiest to do here ?? Or just leave it unti lI cant bear it anymore and have the doors and windows taped down and try and have someone sandblast and paint ??

Hopefully something came loose.Try and get a scanner on it yourself somehow - before the shops says its a/b/c.

Yessir http://www.dieselautopower.com/1050201_p/bd%20stealth%20cover%201050201.htm Its just a clean/controlled way to tap the VP44. Most people who have a juice/comp/quad will tap the vp44 for the extra 60-70 HP. As for your wire - just use some RTV silcone sealant - it will be fine - or shrink wrap (if your careful).

Basically yes - you got it np.

Yes Once you go larger - you need a HX40 downpipe and its clamps to the exhaust housing with a vband clamp and no elbow involved. Thats the beauty of that setup on ebay (you will need to PM the guy though - I actually know him - good guy) as its comes with new SS HX40 and the elbow for 4" - so means you get to keep you downpipe if you upgrade ( just extend it ). Rather than having to buy another $150 one.

go good summary

Yeah the elbow flange is nomrally around 3 or 3.5" as opposed to 4" exhuast. So either the downpipe will usually step down or the elbow has to be different. You can check somthing like this out. The benefit is if you decide to go bigger turbo later - you have the right downpipe and all you need to do is extend it slightly - an exahist place will do it $20. [h=1]Power Elbow 1994-2002 dodge ram cummins 5.9L and hx40 downpipe[/h] http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=280819808214&nma=true&rt=nc&si=bimCePMeWXgTwABnmX%252BcWJCKkeo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Tapping means tapping the VP44 wire to allow the programmer to send signals for increased fuel injection to the pump. If you dont TAP - you are limited to around 60HP on ALL programmers. If you TAP you can get somwhere between 120-150HP from your programmer. A LOT of guys TAP. The alternative is to get the power from injectors rather from programmer. But that power is not adjustable. On the flip side - some people say getting power that way does less stress to VP44. So again - no right or wrong - just different approaches Heres my post on STUDS install. It should help you do yours. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5614-Head-studs-and-twins-build-!!!!!

Original tranny ? Edge EZ should have woken your truck up a bit and getting some mpg. Not much else to do apart from guages, valve body unless you want to pull the entire trans.

Get a video of it uploaded

Glad you said that - I almost posted it - but I have a 2001 and wasnt 100% sure > AS for being tough to unclip - yes they are a SOB at times if you need to remove them.