JOHNFAK

If I have the BHAF and rubber boot off - the noise is basically not there. If I put it on - its quite loud. Can't see anything wrong with the boot. Wondering if its a small wobble that gets magnified as an 'echo' with the boot on. Anyway at least I found the source. By valve I assume you mean valve in the engine block ? They were pretty tight when we checked last time ....... tightened them down. Whats involved in diagnosing/fixing that ?

ok - thanks for the info - someone told me it was a tranny cooler and I wasn't thnking that was quite right from a forum "it's a heat exchanger. It warms the trans fluid to allow O/D to engage when cold, and helps cool it when hot. Not needed for manual trans, should be used with auto, or at least another cooler with cold fluid bypass to allow faster warm up." Assuming thats right given we have a the electric fan and cooler up front. Ok - so I * think* my soud is comming form my turbo - or its right in that area ......... going to disconnect the BHAF and tubing and see how much play in it and if I can isolate further .......... only thing is I know how fast the turbo spins and the sound (speed of noise) doen't match that of the turbo - but comming right from that area. ..... ---------- Post added at 07:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:44 AM ---------- ok - FOUND IT Its an 'echo' of some sort from the turbo/turbo boot. Basically I took off the BHAF and turbo boot - all fine. Put back on - hear this wobble/echo ..... Boot looks fine ....... doesn't seem any play in the turbo ......... i have removed the silencer ring recently ........ ideas now ?

yeah - kinda hoping its something to do with exhaust/leak somewhereWhen I am under the tranny I can not really hear it ........ so hoping its nothing there (tranny pump etc) as since that was the last thing we touched asides a/c you would thing odds are towards that - but can't hear it. Hardest part is as soon as I start truck it heats up so quick its hard to touch anything to see if knocking/shaking ...... lmaoI read somewhere someone used a hose attached to a small funnel to his ear to help isolate sounds - any1 done this - else I might be a ginnea-pig and try it and let you know .................thanks for ideas ......... 2 questions 1) Is there a way to disconnect the front fan - eg relay - so I can reduce noise and also check water pump etc2) The tubular thing on passenger side of block that tranny lines run into - thats some sort of prefilter before it reaches cooler right ? or is it it a pump ? thx

Good idea - I took off the cover and started the engine and tried to listen for the sound as well as watched the rotation of the flex plate to see if not smooth.All looked ok.Still finding it hard to isolate ...... strongest sound comes from the passengers side of the block. Not much over there though - manifold, turbo, exhaust ........It kinda sounds like something is loose whilst being spun/moved. There is no thud/clanking or ticking - more just like something moving thats loose ......any sounds from the block itself with valves/heads that could cause that ? Concerned its comming from the block itself - but not sure what to check.

Ok - so had tranny TC + VB replaced.Just had the evap/heater core replaced.Picked up the truck and I hear a funny sound - hard to describe - like a very low/dull whir/thud that "appears" to match engine rpm - making me think drivelineInitial thought was TC bolts - so I looked at them and they seemed tight with no play.If I had to say as a "guess" it sounds more like its coming from the block itself. Hard to say. Its very low compared to fan/engine and like a low whirring/thud sound as engine shaft spins.Could it be valves or something - I know we tightened my valves a few months back and no issues and not much play to begin with ?? Any other thoughts ??No codes ........ I have noticed a little black smoke out of the back taking off the line Could the higher tranny pressure in the new VB cause that near the tranny filter besides the block ? :shrug:I know its hard one to diagnose without codes or isolating the exact point.I just changed oil and filter - no differenceCoolant a little low - will top off today.Was thinking cleaning battery terminals as well as well as any sensors ? I have already done the MAP sensor.Throw them out there - keep in mind the new VB which is when this started to happen (or pretty close).John

man that sucks - I feel your painJust had teh a/c fixed with new high pressure lines and charge to the tune of $450.Then 2 weeks later - no cold air.Now they are doing the a/c evaporator and heater core to the tune of $900.Certainly hope it holds pressure after that.Don't know what else you could do except charge it back up with a dye pack and find the leak ....... would suck if it was the evaporator againLike Michael said - you can bump the clutch to make sure the clutch does work also - at least if it was that - you can get them for around $200 (I think).

Good points - yeah one of my concerns is where to mount it - as well as using tranny 1/2" flexi-hose for the fluid to connect to cooler lines. Need to think if there is anyway to mount a second fan (only) to existing stock ...... rather than replacing the stock fan with the two fans - as I can't afford $600 for this one.

But doesn't the tranny cooler with 12v fan have a switch that will come on at a certain temp - just same as front electric fan http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Hi-Tek-Automatic-Transmission-Cooling-System/Hi-Tek-Automatic-Transmission-Cooling-System-13-1-2x9x3-1-2-with-9-1-2-diameter-fan So once temps go over certain temp it kicks in and starts cooling down the fluid directly. And just to be be real dumb here - isn't this a direct cooling of the fluid itself, whereas dual electric fans are just passing more airflow over the existing cooler ?? So what I mean is - this way you actually get it directly cooled by two fans against 2x sets of 'fins'. Using the 2 front mounted electric fans you have 2 fans (same) but only 1 set of fins - so less surface area in total thats being cooled as it moves through ?

whats the cheapest/easiest way to do that ?I can add a extra tranny cooler for like $300 ........

How hard was it getting that HVAC out of the dash - thing looks huge !!Was half thinking about trying this myself ............. hmmmmm

ManI don't have it in me after reading all that.I got a quote for $300 labor from my mechanic for doing it - labor - think it would be the best $300 I ever spent.He was charging $200 per set though - so $400 + $300 = $700. IF I could get them off amazon for $100 - so $200 + $300 =$500 sounds like a winner.HE said only small play in passenger side - and pretty firm on drivers side. I need to lift the wheels to check mself.Either way I think its a job for supermechanic - not homebody jim Exploding balljoints ,,,,, hmmmmm .......... I'll go work on something else ..... lmao ........ :lmao2:thanks for info guys

will check that out - cost and ease of install

Yeah put in a drain valve so I can change fluid more frequently for that very reason. Anyone apart from Jim(SASQCH) use an auxilliary tranny cooler ? Any recommendations ? ta dudes

Woo Hoo - ok ISX - we need a boys fishing trip Picked up the truck - shifts like a dream all gears nice and firm.Temps on the hot line around 160-175 when cruising, maximum I have seen is 198 when stop/start. So all looks good - still breaking her in a little W+F - what temps are ok on the hot line when towing up a hill ??? Its amazing how much more idea of temps you get from this than the silly test port which just kinda sits in the middle not matter what. So I am all on board with that great tip. Will monitor and update - then gonna do a writeup (clean) of everything from start to finish Including the awesome service I got from the company - RevMax - but will hold out for at least a week or so to see it all stays same WOO HOO

damn figured it would be around that How do you know when you need to replace them. I have a little play in mine - but not what I would call bad - but then I wouldn;t know. Just forked out $2k for my TC and valve body with the equipment to do it myself as well as getting the mechanic to do the second VB with lower pressures ..... so wasn;t wanting to start this until I had to. ---------- Post added 06-10-2010 at 10:39 AM ---------- Previous post was 06-09-2010 at 09:19 PM ---------- Hey Recommendations on which ball joints to go for ?? 2001 Dodge RAM 4x4 8800 gvw I have seen OEM, MEVOTECH, MOOG ........ guiness - what'd you use ? any others ?? MY guys says most play is on one side - can I get away with doing upper/lower on one side or better to do both ?? thanks

oh - thought that was for bearings and hubs ? Didn't think that was for the ball joints ........... or was it all done at same time ?

What should replacing the ball joints cost at a mechanicTotal for parts + labor.I'm thinking this is something i don;t want to tackle.

Ha - yeah I actually thought the sameYou might be able to get the parts - sell - and make $1000then use that $1000k with the other $3k to spend on your 24v as required Think engine normally around $1500 if all fine secondhandTranny probably around $1000 if you can prove all ok and low miles and built with TC + VB - new rebuilt for $2700Transfer Case - if its a HD one - maybe $500 - I think you can buy rebuilt $11003.55 axles and front drive shaft - no idea ........... but should put you $1000k in the clear if you can sell it all Those are just guesses on what I have seen ......... but yeah - some extra $$ for your 24V when required

I just took mine out a few weeks backHaven't driven it enough with the other issues I have been havingbut first impressions was I liked it better with it in ...........

Not MIA - just had nothing to talk about as too depressed about my truck - still on the bench. So have replaced new torque converter and VB. Then threw p1762+p1763. They sent me another VB with new solenoids but lower pressure and she acted screwy but no codes. Now they want me to put back the original VB that threw codes - and they are going to play with the line pressure as well as add a resisistor to the PCM if required (input/line 31 or something). So will see how that goes ............... beyond that I am not sure ............... might have to order a new tranny and just be done with it:cry: ---------- Post added at 07:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:02 AM ---------- Here is a very similar thread/situation if any1 interested Will know more friday. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/186150-47re-line-pressure-gov-pressure-issues.html Apparently the new VB are not meant to require the resistor - but thats where we are heading - once we check the voltage with the VB back in. ---------- Post added at 09:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:10 AM ---------- oooooooooohhhhhhhhh ............... it might be fixed mechanic said he added some more tranny fluid - and things much better ............... no codes, have 1st gear back ............ gonna get him to drive a little more and then I am going out to check the shifts and temps If all good - PARTY AT MY HOUSE !!!!! (well .... RV)

$2500 seems like a pretty damn good deal.Similar to what ISX said tho - unless there's a reason to do it - your probably gonna spend a similar amount having a shop do the conversion.And what did you gain ??For $5k (I know you get to resell your parts which may bring it down to to 3k) - you could get$1000 -> New VP44 $2700 -> New BUILT Tranny (when yours goes) including new VB and TC$1300 -> for whatever else you may need along the way - new transfer case ? Tires ? Mods ? AS long as there's nothing wrong with your truck engine/transfer case , bearings whatever - if you had to replace the vp44 and tranny - I would think you would see another 150,000 miles without too much issue

I don't know what to say .........except At least its happened to someone else - I thought man what are the chances it happens to a noob - yet I was really careful (and it aint that hard from above) - might be a bit different from the bottom with those dastardly e-clips My local mechanic wants $200 for a VB install and tranny flush - and thats me supplying the tranny fluid. ....... I like the guy but he wasn't sure how to do the tranny flush - so I am thinking I need to find a decent tranny guy - just in case issues moving forward. onward and ?upward?

So if my truck is in limp mode with those codesCan I clear it by leaving the -ve battery cables diconnected ??any ideas ? Just want to get it out of limp mode when I drive it to the tranny guy to do my new VB rather than trying to start in 3rd each time.

Yeah - I wish I had bought a good manual 12v now and just wacked in a good flywheel and clutch - lmao. Anyway - spoke with my guy - he's gonna send another valve body - he said we could both spend too much time trying to figure it out - so it'll ship tomorrow. Gonna have a mechanic do this one - can't afford spilling any more atf fluid on my mates parents house - and I can't do any work here - rv park. Was an interesting exercise for someone 6 months ago hadn't even changed brake pads on his car to now dropping the tranny/TC/VB Was fun - would I do it again - not quickly Now I just need to find a half decent tranny guy near STL MO ........ Going for the mosts posts in single thread moparman history

Hey mate - ok here's the info I am going to talk with vendor tomorrow. I am prepared for a new trans - thats kinda why I wanted to do this part myself cause I wanted to learn and half expect I may need to get a tranny guy to install trans.Anyway - this is what happens - thanks again for all the help guysAnytime the TC is not locked up - the truck feels really laboured - almost like the e-brake is on - or I am not in low enough gear, or something slipping. This is where the heat builds and quick - like 150 -210 in 3 miles (in the hotline).A soon as the TC locks in - the power feels good - and the temps drop dramatically - like from 210 down to 170 in minutes. And good power.I am now throwing P1762+p1763 which I think areP1762 Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too HighI know you can adjust the fuel pressure in the VB if its too high, I also know you can replace the goveror pressure sensor etc - but this VB should have all new electronics ( I paid extra for that - but will confirm exactly was was done tomorrow)