01cummins4ever

Mine was a 1962 Chevy stepside, I towed two of them home to make 1. along with that came my first real job at 16. Worked at a true full service gas station with two bays, doing tires and lube jobs and AG tire repair. Conveniently right across the street from the high school, a couple hours a day after school and a full day on Saturday, I think minimum wage was around 2.75 an hour, I remember being on my parents insurance for like 15 .00 a month. For some reason I don’t think that’s @IBMobile car,

I did the moparman breather mod several years ago, its been working flawlessly, I have the down tube cut right above the front diff pumpkin and oil drips right on top mixes in with the road grime and never makes it to the ground.

Looks like the lazy mans way of cleaning all the winter road salt from under the truck

Good to see that your engine is still in good shape with the miles you have, to good maintenance and good ol Dino oil, I hope mine is in good shape internally when the time comes, I’m sure it’s when and not if. keep up the good work @dripley enjoying this thread.

I switched out my original injectors at around 300k, or thier abouts. With new RV 275’s along with a quad xzt+. at the same time. Now have 321k, and completely happy with the performance. The xzt generally lives on level 2 economy mode and saw a 1-2 mpg increase after install but seems to be closer to 1 mpg as the injectors broke in. I do use level 3 when towing and when I do Im usually grossing above 20k Pounds and can still keep my temps in spec. I have a full set of gauges and I wouldnt attempt what I do without them. Im sure you can go bigger, but as in my case I have to be careful as I am running a 47re auto with only a little over stock upgrades. So far no problems but stock autos don’t like anything above the 300 hp mark. I believe the RV injectors are a 40 hp upgrade, running them on a stock motor even with no tuner you would be happy with them.

I’ve been doing it Religiously since my dodge was new and every diesel truck I drive, even if not towing. Always a good idea to let turbo cool down and allow cooler oil to flow through at idle. If you have a pyro gauge (exhaust gas temp) letting it cool down to 315 degree’s is good for the turbo, and pro long it’s life, just a good habit to get into

IIRC.. The code will only trip if a California truck? When I installed mine I went with the straight mechanical set up and ordered it that way, No issues with check engine light For filter changes I cheat and add a little pre filtered fuel in the canister and it doesn’t loose prime. I’m still in the market to find a prefilter strainer that’s serviceable, but searching I havnt found anything that’s even close to the 24 micron strainer, meantime I just change the strainer, but it would be nice to open it up and see what kind of crap it’s catching and clean it.

I would just reuse the leather if it’s still in good shape

https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/c-92-fuel-system-related-fuel-boss-pumps-accys-fuel-boss-mechanical-lift-pump-systems.html Go with the fuel boss and you will only cry once You can plumb these in different configurations, add extra filtration, keep you existing pump for primming, etc.. You can get a hold of Richard at GDP, tell him what you want and he can set you up

I would suggest unbolting the swaybay and let it hang or removing it completely to gain more access, I did not know you could run without it as others have suggested but if you want it fixed you will have to remove the broke bolt, I’ve never unbolted one but I assume it’s a threaded nut welded or stamped steel nut inside frame, Im sure someone else could verify this.

We must have went to the same school

Is thier access to get a drill good and square under it? If so that would be my first line of stack. Start with a small bit and work your way up to a larger, use good bits and go slow, If you can get the hole large enough you might have luck with an easy out, if not just keep drilling it larger without damaging the threads, eventually you should be able to work it out. Having a oxy/act. torch handy would be helpful as you could heat the broke bolt cherry hot and break the bond from the rust and corrosion, or even a welder by welding a cap to the broke stud to get a wrench on it.

IMHO.. these trucks need more weight on the *** end anyway

I got the new check valve installed and cured that problem, holds 17 psi. at idle and 17 -18 psi at wot. next is to run this down past 1/8 tank and see if this draw straw performs better than the last

Give it a couple days riding in the seat, mine already seemed to settle a little, and I’m right at 205 lbs.

I’ve have taken it apart and checked it a few times in the last few days, never been any debris or anything in it I did contact Richard at GDP this morning and he seems to believe the valve maybe hanging up, he suggested to take it apart and change one of the washers to the front side of spring to help the piston seal shut when At idle, That helped a little, at least when I decelerate and the psi drops below 10 it will rebound in a hurry back to normal, but in the mean time he is sending me a new valve, hope it cures the problem, it’s an expensive little check valve I really need to build a good test gauge, is checking at the vp port a good place to hook a test gauge

187.00 for the skin and 106.00 for the foam, both claim to be USA made and seem to be of good quality, It was a tight fit stretching the skin over the foam and took some time and patience I’m riding a couple inches taller now but Im sure it will settle s little

Electric isspro ev series, I know the mechanical are more accurate but I don’t believe it’s the gauge at this time. But not sure of anything yet

Since I got the dodge in the garage for it’s annual tune up I thought I would tackle the front drivers seat project. I was in desperate need of a new cushion and cover. I found a place on eBay that had the factory original copy of the covers, along with the new foam. I wish I could post links but my computer is having issues with that. The place is called autochampoftexas, Therr prices were comparable and when you place your order they have you send in your vin # and trim code # to make sure you get the right pattern and color, anyway it matched my original perfect. The old and disgusting And the new

I tried running with the fuel cap off, drove about 10 miles, everything was fine then slowed down and thier goes the fuel pressure down to about 4, I do not have an electric pump with the adjustable regulator, I have the mechanical fuel boss. which I believe is doing it’s job, the fuel is regulated with a brass bypass valve with a spring loaded piston inside which is located on the return fuel going to the tank, (this is in addition to the factory return comming from engine going back to the fuel basket) it’s supposed to stay closed until 17psi then open up and let excess fuel return to the tank as the fuel pressure increases due to acceleration and engine rpm, that’s the way the fuel boss is designed. So that being said I am leaning toward the bypass valve sticking or not sealing when the fuel gets warm. I took the valve apart and inspected it and there was absolutely no debris or any other matter inside so maybe it’s sticking open when fuel gets warm. When the psi dropped to below 10 I pulled over and crawled under truck and tapped on the valve with a screwdriver and bam, My fuel pressure spikes right back to 17psi. I guess I will have to contact Glasier Diesel Power in the morning and see if this valve can be fixed or just replace. I have the straw installed stand alone out side the basket It’s cut about 1/8” from bottom of empty tank with two notches just to aid in fuel volume suction

I will have to give that a try, I’m defently loosing the pressure on deceleration and holds good pressure at higher rpm, as long as I can keep it above 2k rpm it won’t drop below 17 psi, any engine speed below 2k the fuel pressure drops With the rpm, sometimes it will go down to about 2psi, and won’t recover until I get on it hard

A 1/4” from bottom of draw straw

About 15 gallons in it.

well my idea of trying to solve the quarter tank issue by installing a new draw straw is back firing and causing new grief, I cut the new draw straw about an 1/8 from bottom of tank then added notches on each side of straw about 1/4” up. I also drilled more 1/2” holes toward the bottom of original fuel basket to speed recovery of return fuel into tank since the new straw is outside the basket. I also extended the return line to the bottom of basket and still have the y splitter going into the fillet neck The issue I am having is fuel pressure, I run a mechanical fuel boss and when I first start up it will idle at 16psi, just like it did before, I can accelerate and even under load it will maintained 16-17 psi. As soon as I let off I loose fuel pressure down between 0 to 10 psi and everything between. I have checked all hoses for leaks, checked for suction leaks and no sign of leaks anywhere, I really don’t think it’s the draw straw being I can maintain good fuel pressure at wot it just looses it when I decelerate, got me stumped I took the pre pump fuel strainer off and cleaned the best I can, got some debris out and reinstalled but same results, Don’t know but maybe by pass valve on return fuel side not sealing? anything else I caiuld have fouled up? I didn’t have this issue before I started this.

The seal on gearbox at the pitman arm is famous for leaking, You need to get under truck with engine running and have someone turn the wheel to check it.