98whitelightnin

Could you tell a difference without the amp? I left mine so I didnt have to mess with wires and they sound fine to me.

Lower timing = lower egt’s? I’m not sure but need to invest in a timing kit and bump it up a little. Depending on where I drive, can't get much better than 17 mpg.

Ambient temps are right on the money and cruising temps seem right too. I think I’m just being paranoid

I’ve got a lazar gun I’ll use On it today.

I have never had a stock truck with gauges but I just put this cheap digital egt gaug/probe in and it seems like temps should be higher than they are. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Gauge-Alarm-Outputs-Sensors/dp/B01N6V9RZR/ref=pd_ybh_a_61?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X4R7KMR9CE7QKT1P3PSB First start idle was about 165* after a minute or so and then I stomped on it after I got the coolant up to temp and it took nearly a full throttle run to 70 to get up to 800*. The only mods to engine are stock plate slid forward and star wheel turned a few clicks. Ive slid the afc housing forward but backed the smoke screw out so smoke is at a minimum without the truck being a dog. Normal driving temps seemed right at around 650-700* and idle when I pulled back in the drive was around 450*, I let it cool to 330* before shutting down. I was expecting to hit 1000* or so with the hard pull, does this sound normal?

Hooked up to the trailer today and my wiring job is good. Thanks for all the help for the electrically challenged.

Thanks AH64ID!! Yes, I have a voltmeter and I got the wires all marked now.

The wires arent hooked up to anything. Ill check my grandpas truck out next time I see him.

Its the plug for factory 7 pin hookup

I actually got all the wires on my truck end identified, its the piece I cut off the other truck that doesnt match any of the diagrams ive seen. This is the piece I cut off the other 98

I actually picked up a plug and length of harness from the wrecking yard tuesday, I just need to know what colors do what. Thh donor truck was a 98 3/4 gas truck but the wiring colors are all different than mine. Im also color blind so it makes everything just that much more fun!

Output shaft seal is leaking in the 98. It doesnt leave a drop in the drive but the underside of the cab is wet and the weep hole is wet. There is a little bit of play when I grab the output shaft, is this normal? I see there is an output bearing and pilot bearing. I dont want to replace the seal only to have to replace the bearing and seal soon after. Anybody with a with a 241 DLD wanna grab the output and see if its got a little wiggle?

The CTM was actually unplugged. I guess po got tired of the door dinger.

I replaced mine and intermittent still doesnt work.

I got some pioneer ts g690 from bestbuy a few months ago for mine. Seems like they were about $40 but looks like they have gone up to $50 now.

Did you ever get this issue resolved? I put in a new motor today but still have no intermittent mode. Can the CTM be swapped with a junk yard unit easily?

2003 and early 2004 HO trucks came with 305/555 and 48re and nv5600. 04.5 all motors had 325/600. My dad had an 03 ho305/555 48re

Never knew it was so simple! My wire is all busted so I put a piece of 3/8 plywood in there for now. It’s hard but I feel like I’m setting on top of the world.

What’s the procedure for getting the foam off? I put my knee into the seat, leaning over to close the sliding rear window and popped the spring on the bottom out.

Ive never personally dealt with Danny at dodge offroad but ive heard nothing but horror stories. You can make a solid front end for alot less $ than all that stuff anyway and its not needed. Mike's stock parts lasted 300k plus and he is on back road and offroading getting wood for the winter. Like mentioned, if your tie rods are shot, do the 4th gen steering or the 98-99HD steering and youll be fine. You do not need to touch your rear differential, leave that to someone that sets gears up.

Upgrading front end refers to tie rod ends and track bar, possibly ball joints if they are loose. This is a really easy job, I think if you grabbed a ratchet and some sockets and went out there and got under the truck, youd see how easy this task is and just get it done. There is no need in upgrading to an aftermarket sway bar, unless your offroading and have the rest of the suspension to go with it.

Would be easiest to just remove the 3 other bolts holding it on and the two nuts on top of the sway bar links.

One of my sway bar bolts had been replaced with a different bolt when I got the truck and the thread pitch was different, It didnt fit tight and worked its way out as well. I have a tap and die set so I found the one that fit best and tapped it out. Then went to ace hardware and matched a bolt up to the tap. Its been holding good and tight for several months now.

I had a couple sets of nitto tires years ago and they required a break-in period before they felt stable at hwy speeds.