98whitelightnin

I have never seen the compressor frozen up like that before, even when actually running the ac.

Any advice? I'm going to dig into this thing tomorrow and really haven't a clue where to start.

Found something interesting tonight. Drove the truck to a friends 10 min down the road with no problems and of course after setting there for 30 min, no od light and no ac. Drove home in 3rd and popped the hood when I got home. The ac dryer is covered in ice and the ac was in the off position! I removed battery terminals just for fun and of course it didn't change anything.

Unplugged the pcm harness and cleaned them up with electrical cleaner and then dielectric grease and went for a test drive for about 30 min with no problems. Came home and let it set about 15 min and went back out to test it out and it's not working again. It's as simple as turning the truck off and back on and it starts messing up until the truck is cooled off again. I'm lost

I thought I had it figured out. My Fass and all my gauges were wired into #9 so I removed the gauges and retired them to another fuse. Drove it down the road a few miles and then to dinner with no problems. Came out of dinner and same problem over again. Stopped at redbox for a movie and swapped out fuses in #9 and turned the key on to see if the od off light would illuminate, it did so I thought all was good. Rented movies and came back to it not working again. Idk what to do and I really hate electrical!

Thanks Mike! I will check it out this afternoon and get back to you

Having an intermittent problem with my 1995 12v lately. It's loosing overdrive while driving down the road and also the ac stopps cooling at the same time. The overdrive on/off button does not light and has no function when this occurs. I can manually lock the converter in 3 when this occurs. This happened first Tuesday night leaving dinner and by the time I got home, 5 miles, and turned it off in the driveway, they do switch light was working fine. Tonight we went to dinner and everything worked as normal but when we left dinner, it never would shift to 4. I pulled over and unplugged the factory temp sensor with no change. Drove to Cheesecake Factory and when we came out the od switch was functioning normally again along with the ac blowing cold but the trams temp light was flickering so I pulled over and plugged the temp sensor back in. Trans shifted normal for about 2 miles and then started dropping from 4 to 3. I locked the converter and it kept dropping from 4 lock to 3 lock and then back up and down for a few more miles until it lost 4 completely and no ac. Every time this happens, I loose control of the od on/off switch and ac cooling.

I would go with a good organic Valair rated for a little more hp than you plan on making. I had a ceramic DD from Valair and although it was jumpy, it was a good clutch and didn't slip. I should have gone with an organic with mine but thought I was gonna make 600+ hp for some reason.?

Don't forget about Power Driven Diesel for injectors. They have their Budget Builder sets for around $300. I just put a set of 7.009 in a 94 12v with over 1.3 million miles and the owner said they ran great, smoother than the stockers i pulled out. I have also ran 7x.010 Contagious Diesel in my 24v and they ran great with great customer service. This new set of 5x.016 from Infinite Performance I just put in my 95 are smoother than the JL Machine 5x.012 and stockers i pulled out.

The front driveshaft will be a little long but it will work and the rear driveshaft will be a little short but it too will work. After the swap, I never could get the t-case output to stop seaping and it might could have been because the driveshaft was a bit short. Everyone I talked to said the pcm cannot be flashed, but the ECM can be done easily unless you don't want the idle up/take off assist feature. I believe you might have to swap your t-case input but I'm not sure being is you already have a DHD because I swapped trans and t-case. I don't believe I changed my t-case linkage but don't remember. I did change all the pcm harness and all out for a manual harness but only because I'm anal about stuff that doesn't matter.

Bring that thing by in a few weekends and we can put a timing cover gasket and crank seal in it.

I am having the same problem with my Fass, changed Fass filters to Napa and dang thing refuses to hold prime

I have done the swap and you wouldn't have know my truck was ever an automatic unless you saw the heat exchanger or looked under the dash at the shift stuff on the column. You do not need a wiring harness or ECM/pcm. If you want the idle up feature so you cannot kill the engine no matter how fast you let out the clutch, then you will need an ECM or like suggested, have smarty write you a 5 speed file or get one from me. Swap was simple but I would do it with a G56 if I did it again.

I'm elctrically challenged and possibly mildly retarded, do you have a video of exactly what your doing and how your testing the alternator?

Pull the radiator, shroud and fan off to make life easier. Hopefully it's something simple

70mph,4.10's, 80-90*, 255/85/16 8-10psi and 800-850 egt. i am in the process of switching to 3.54's and will update when the swap is done

I'm pretty sure my cat would bite me if I tried to do this to her

I have 5" flopro with muffler and there is a drone at 2200 rpm at 70mph with these 4.10. Drop it down to 1900rpm there is no drone so if you have 3.54 you should be fine.

I do the same as 903Dodge. I grew up in 903 and my brother and mom live in Tyler

I had fast coolers on my 98, can't remember temps but never saw them get hot by any means. I believe I ran 7 qts of fluid from dodge and blue menthal.

Whoops I forgot I did take the fan shroud off the radiator. I only loosened the bolts up and left the mounts where they were, if the motor fell, it should have fallen back into the mounts.

I just did mine a couple weeks ago and undid both motor mounts then raised the motor almost to the firewall. I didn't have to remove the pickup tube, it was actually pretty easy.

I don't think there is a thermostat available for a 12v that doesn't fluctuate. I bought one of the eBay thermostats that are not supposed to fluctuate but it did too, just the way it is with the oversized cooling system.

I really wish I had gone with the draw straw instead of sump but after all the horror stories with 1/4 tank issues with the straw and nothing on the sump, I went sump. When mine gets to 1/4 tank, it looses fuel pressure and won't hardly run with this Beans sump drilled directly below the stock pickup.

I checked yesterday again with my buddies and it tested a bit lower than yours did so I guess my problem lies else where.