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Don't think so from what I've learned about the vp44 on this forum. Read this thread through to the end and you will see what I mean: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1656-VP44-Write-Up-Minimum-pressure-suggested...

I don't know of any requirement to remove the old lines, but if you are looking to reduce the truck weight have at it.

Locate the VP44 follow the fuel line back to the fuel filter canister, trace the fuel line that feeds the filter back and if it is connected to the pump on the block, that should be the functioning lift pump. if the line bypasses that pump then your pump is further back and probably in the tank which means you will need the draw straw.

Looks really cool. Do you have a used one for $235.00 shipped? :lmao: What does it take to retrofit it to a 2nd gen? Is it an affordable option for the common guy?

The raptor is a good pump. So are FASS (not the ddrp), and AirDog, Both of them have air/water separators and filters but they are more money. It's up to you and what you want to spend.

You are not getting enough pressure and not enough volume because of the low pressure. The pressure needs to be about 17 at idle and not below about 13 at wot. unfortunate thing is your VP44 may have already been damaged by the low pressure. Its at least lift pump time.

My original question was "Does anyone have one and can answer definitively the above questions" (that I had posted).So I have to ask you, do you have a tunnel ram?Have you ever had any actual experience with one that you are basing your statements on or are you trying to reason out whether it works or not.As I see it the holes in your air tank analogy are numerous and there is no caparison to the intake manifold mainly because of volume, shape, and cfm flow. Do you have any background in fluid dynamics (which covers gaseous fluids) or airflow design. Have you even ever pulled the plate off of the manifold and looked at the inside to see how much it looks like an airtank (not) and it's not smooth, free, and open to allow constant airflow through out like an air compressor tank much less compare with the volume of an 80 gal tank.So my bottom line is I don't think I'm much interested in an opinion on a product that isn't based upon first hand experience.Please don't take this as a personal affront, I don't mean it that way. I'm sure you are quite knowledgeable on the Cummins engine, but I'm really wanting feedback from someone with experience with the product.

Isn't pressure only a part of the equation of getting air into the cylinders?Doesn't the volume of the passage need to be considered also?What about the smoothness of the walls of the passage?What about the effect of abrupt 90 degree corners on airflow?

Who are you guys getting your pumps from?Did you get the least expensive one you could find, or was it a local source?If you have gone through multiple pumps were they all from the same place?I want to know who NOT to buy a pump from when I next need one.

I disagree, but to each his own. It's much easier for a pump to push a column of fluid than to suck it. look at the specs of pumps where they show how far it will draw and how far it will push a vertical column. That's why water wells have submersible pumps not one at the top of the well unless it is a shallow well. As far as putting the pump by the engine because it is better protected, that is a good point, however it is easy to put in a splash shield on a frame mounted pump.

Anyone have any experience with this product? http://www.thetunnelram.com/ does it do what it claims, more even air flow to cyl, better mileage, cooler egt's and cyl temps? Is it worth the money? Does anyone have one and can answer definitively the above questions.

Answers in red above.

Air/water separation from the fuel, better filtration of the fuel than the factory setup, ability to bypass the restrictive factory filter and small fuel lines.

From everything I've read Raptor is a good pump. Lots of folks have them and are happy with them.

NO!!! What you are looking at from FASS is the DDRP pump - it's not any better than the stock pump. FASS pumps are good except for the DDRP. If you can afford it go with a full FASS with air separator and filter. Otherwise look at a Raptor or AirDog. You want your pump located near the fuel tank not on the engine block.

C Holmes,Something to think about.Since you now have the pumps hooked in series, and neither one will work adequately alone because of the series hookup, what happens when one of them fails completely?Now that you have two pumps, statistically you now have twice the chances of a total pump failure than you did with one pump.If I were you I would consider relocating the new pump to the frame by the tank and putting in a draw straw.

Sounds like you have done some homework.You will find people happy with both bluechip and jkidd.You have to decide what you want to spend and with whom.Be weary of suggested gains in performance and or mileage, if they are suggesting it and not flat out stating or guaranteeing it I wouldn't be inclined to put much stock in it.

If by engine brake you mean jake brake then yes there is a difference. I don't believe you can put a jake brake on a 2nd gen. The true jake brake prevents the exhaust valves from opening causing the engine to pump against itself. The exhaust brake is a butterfly valve somewhere in the exhaust with a relief valve or a small hole in it (generally at the turbo exhaust). It causes the engine to build back pressure in the manifold giving engine resistance through the driveline. If someone is selling an engine brake for the 2nd gen's check it out to see how it really works.

They won't hurt the engine if used properly. Yes, they work on auto's but only when the torque converter is in lockup. So if you have an auto you should have some sort of controller that only lets the brake come on when the TC is locked. Using a manual TC lockup switch will work but you have to be careful to always unlock it at engine rpms below 1200 or you will stall the engine (not good for the engine or transmission). If you use the exhaust brake out of TC lockup excessive heat is generated in the transmission and TC and that is bad for the transmission and TC. Exhaust brake http://www.tstproducts.com/19985-200224valvecummins-1.aspx Controller http://www.tstproducts.com/co-pilotfor985-02dodgeram.aspx

Putting a washer or two with a hole in it behind the spring on the pressure relief valve to increase the pressure. The hole is to let the fuel through.

Actually, not that expensive if the parts are just laying around anyway. Pump came off the truck when I put on the FASS95. Had the spin on filter with housing left over from another project. Works much better and faster than the gravity transfer it replaced. I wouldn't buy a new pump for this purpose but would use a functional used one as long as it pushed over 6 psi.

Hey, that's not quite true. I've found that they make a great transfer pump from an auxiliary tank to the main tank when set up with a pre-filter and low pressure light to show when they run the auxiliary tank dry.

All programs in the smarty have the high idle so I now have it turned on. I loaded the smarty program #7 (catcher + added Timing) It's quite aggressive on the throttle and when I up the PowerMax3 it runs very well. Hard starting when warm has gone away and it no longer dies when going into drive.

Not in my opinion. Spend a little more and put in a FASS (not the DDRP), Airdog, or Raptor these are proven pumps with a great warranty. Something that will push 90GPH or more.

WOW, great display pictures of all the parts of the VP44. You are right the only thing that higher pressure will do is provide a greater available volume if the supply line is larger than stock. It cannot open the overflow valve further due to the pump's internal design. I'm not going to reduce the pressure on my lift pump though, I'm comfortable with the 17-17.5 at idle. Thanks for the information, never too old to learn. Jim