leathermaneod

Not sure if this is right or wrong, but my fan sometimes sounds like it's locked up when I first start out and the truck is cold. Doesn't take long for the extra noise to go away though, and I've never heard it lock up other than that.

Thank you! I would like to do it myself, just sucks because I'm not allowed to work on cars were I live. I do it anyway, and I do it a lot, but I try to be somewhat discrete about it. I feel like this is not something I can hide very well lol. It will just have to wait for a little till I go back to PA

Thanks for all the info guys. What are your opinions on the 3 part flush from a small local Napa service center that I and a friend have had good luck with in the past? Would you do it? Do you think all that cleaning will hurt anything/expose leaks?

Thank you! I had seen things in the past about the controls having to be on or something so I was confused. Thanks for clearing that up! I just talked to a shop to get a price for flushing it and see how they do it. They want $180 and have a 3 part flush. First is some kind of cleaner, then another cleaner under pressure, then the new antifreeze. I asked if they ever have any issues with leaks after all that cleaning and they said no, still scares me a little. Sounds like they would definitely get all the crap out though. What do you think? Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's from a wet sleeve engine and requires coolant with sca's to prevent that cavitation. We don't have to worry about that in ours....

Gotcha! The heater control has to be on as well to allow flow to it correct?

It come out the thermostat housing or goes in there? And what about the heater core?

When you do it you put water in through the rad cap correct? Where does the water come out? And do you have to do anything special to make sure you get the heater core too?

My only concern with that is that my water has a lot of minerals in it...my shower heads get clogged and have to be cleaned out periodically...not sure how I feel about putting that in my cooling system....I debated about just getting a flush done for this reason, but I don't know if that's really any better than just draining and filling myself...I also thought about dumping gallons of distilled water in while running it to flush but idk if I can get the water in fast enough like that.

Yes I am planning to face the truck downhill and then disconnect the lower hose and drain everything out as good as possible. Then fill up with distilled water, then run the truck, drain and repeat.

My intention is not to go a crazy long drain interval on the coolant. I'm just trying to figure out which is the safest option for the cooling system to run for a couple years.

No problem! I only know because I've been looking into this for myself. The thing that confuses me is the ASTM numbers. As per our owners manual, we don't need the HOAT, but that article claims that it is backwards compatible. However, IIRC the Zerex G-05 does not say the ASTM 4985 thats in our owners manual, it says 3066 I believe. Not sure how that affects things. I saw it is low silicate though. I was going to use the regular old green stuff from auto zone because it is ASTM 4985 and low silicate, but I want the premixed stuff and they don't have it in premixed. So then I was gona use Super Tech, but it doesn't say low silicate....

This TDR article gives some good info on coolant requirements for us. I don't think it says anything much about Dexcool, but it's still a good read... http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle62_antifreeze.html

I was looking into that, but I'd kinda like something that's a little more readily available. I just saw the Zerex G05 at autozone and that is looking pretty good.

That's how I feel too. That's why I'm trying to make sure I get the best.

Did he give you any recommendations on what you should use?

Is it possible that this could be an issue with the sensor itself? Or did you try swapping out just the sensor? If not that, then maybe there is something wrong with your tone ring specifically. Maybe it's wearing oddly for some reason, or defective... TFaro you mentioned orange coolant....is the the Zerex G-05? I've been wanting to change my coolant and trying to decide which to run. The ASTM numbers confuse me too because some of them say the meet the 4985 and some say 3306, and ours is supposed to be 4985 as per the owners manual. I was gona go with the green stuff from autozone because it's 4985 and says it's safe for light diesels and is low silicate, but I'd rather get the pre mixed stuff so I don't have to mix it. So then I was gona get supertech, it's 4985, but it doesn't say if it's low silicate. So then I saw the Zerex G-05 that's made by Valvoline at autozone and it is pre mixed and says it's approved by cummins (it would since its Valvoline), but it's not 4985, it's 3306 and some other number I think. So what gives? Which is safe/best? Any opinions?

I just got new ones put in my rear driveshaft. The shop I went to does a lot of work on bigger trucks I believe. They recommend either Spicer or Neapco. They said the neapco are just as good as the spicer and they only had greasable neapcos in stock so that's what I went with. I like greasable parts because I know I will grease them. That place told me cheaper ones are not made to as tight of tolerances and sometimes don't fit right in the yokes.

You can drill and tap your hubs to grease your wheel bearings?? How do you do this??

Is that more important than size then?

So with bigger nozzles delivering more fuel, why do guys normally report at least a slight increase in fuel mileage when going to bigger injectors over stock? Or do the gains end at about 50hp over stock? What I'm saying is, if I went from BD 75hp injectors to RV 275's, would I see an increase, decrease, or stay the same? Always assuming of course that I drive like I'm trying to get good fuel mileage.

Thanks for that! I saw it on high gears website, but I'd love to talk to Weller truck though. I'm just concerned about the possible effects of running this fluid long term, and even more importantly for me, switching to it at high mileage. I think I'll give Abe a call.

Has anyone out there run the Mobil 50wt in their NV4500 long term?

It's really odd how some trucks have such issues bleeding air out of the fuel lines, and some like mine, don't really. I've had my fuel system apart countless times and I never crack injector lines. Mostly because I had such issues with leaks there in the past that it's just not worth it lol. Even with my fuel boss that only pump when the engine is turning, I just crank for about ten seconds, then wait about a minute to take it easy on the starter, then crank another ten seconds, then wait a minute, and so on till it starts. If I have the line from filter housing to vp44 off it might take about fives cycles of that but then it's fine.

This is a very interesting read, http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle62_antifreeze.html might answer some of your questions notlimah. I would really like to do it myself using the garden hose and the engine to push everything out the upper rad hose, but I know it's not safe because mineral deposits clog my shower head! No way I'm putting that water in my system lol. I'd almost rather just buy the premixed stuff, then pour it in as I use the engine to flush out the old stuff.

I am interested in this as well. I was thinking earlier today that I should change my coolant, either flush it myself, or take it somewhere. But I do not have clean enough water to use a garden hose so it looks like I'm taking it somewhere. I figured I'd just ask the shop if they had anything special for diesels. I read somewhere that it's not as critical to has special diesel coolant for our engines because they are not wet sleeved, anyone know if that's true?