leathermaneod

Thank you very much for that detailed explanation! So in your opinion it looks like I have one 37° and one 45°? What is the best way to measure those? Just a regular protractor? How do you measure the inside? Just noticed you have an Autometer pyro, how does your needle act at key off?

So I just had an idea and I wanted to get some feedback on it ahead of time in case I still can't get things to work when I get these new fittings from Eric. What if I were to go back to banjo bolts at the filter housing and VP. I could get the hi flow banjos and 3/8 pushlok fittings for them. The one at the vp end could be tapped for my test port, and I could use a pushlok pressure access t somewhere between the vp and filter, kinda like how Mike has his I believe. What are your thoughts on this? Would I be loosing a lot of flow with the hi flow banjos? Will it hurt anything? What would you guys do?

My local lowes and Home Depot are pretty much useless when it comes to anything even slightly out of the norm. I checked them and Sears first thing and they don't have any. I found an Irwin tap at and Ace hardware, not sure if it's US made or not I still have to check. But they didn't have the bit for it. So I gota run to fatenal today and pick one up there. Fortunately they have a 1/8 npt pipe plug too.

I looked at his tap and drill set. Very reasonable price too. I also called my local fastenal today and they have a tap and a drill bit. However the tap is not US made. I'm a little leary of using a Chinese tap on something so important. What do you all think? They also have a regular black steel pipe plug so that solves that. Now I just have to figure out when I can get there because they close at five every day and aren't open on weekends lol oh and I checked my antisieze and it is good from way below zero all the way to 1600°.

You could always make your own cables and use the ordnance terminals. That way you can replace only what you need. Probably cheaper than custom battery cables too...

Hmmm ok thanks for the info. I'll have to look around a little more.

1/8 npt plug not galvanized. Maybe I could use brass? 1/8 NPT tap was hard to find and even when I did it doesn't come with a drill so I still need one of them. Local hardware stores around here aren't great haha

Good thought. I'm just having a hard time finding all these parts. I may just have to break down and order stuff online

Sweet thanks! Do they make antisieze that is specified as hi temp? Like I have the normal aluminum paste stuff, is there something better for this?

For the 1/8 npt tap, is the 27 thread the correct one? And it should be tapered thread correct? Also, for the plug for my extra hole, is galvanized steel ok?

Not really. I will when I get new parts from Eric and try everything again.

Hmmm. Well maybe I'll try just giving it it's own ground then and see if it helps. Or I may just clean the ground I have.

he didn't mean to add it to the mating surface, but to the threads.

Interesting. Idk that's just what he said to do. He also said that there is some level of tolerance in the angle of the mating surfaces. For example he said they could be 35° rather than 37°. I believe he also said the torque is 35ft lbs for these. Oh and I forgot to mention before, I did ask about a brass version. He said he has never seen one from any of the manufacturers of these fittings, and he believes it's is something to do with the manufacturing process that makes brass not a good material for the 90°s and 45°s. He did say the the plating could possibly be the issues as well. One other I forgot about that he said might be possible, is that the swivel nut could be crimped on badly and so causing an issue.

Well I guess I have to re ground my pyrometer too. I was talking with Autometer about how the needle drops all the way past 0 to about the 6 or 7 o'clock position at key off and I don't think it always reads correctly when the truck is cold at key on (a little warm even when it's rueally cold out). Anyway they said it sounds like I have a bad ground which is possible because right now the ground for it is soldered together with the gauge lighting grounds and screwed into the dash frame. How do you all have your grounded? Directly to engine? That's what the guy from Autometer told me to do...

The threads of the JIC fittings. And with wd40 or diesel or something like that. Just to keep them from binding.

well I talked to Eric a few times yesterday and emailed him this pictures. Before seeing the pictures he said he wasn't too sure what else he could do for me and offered me a refund. I told him I really need the parts to work and asked if he would look at the pics and he said of course. So I sent them over and he called back later in the day. He said they don't look quite right. But he did say that because of the tolerance in the angle you may see that mark. He said he will have his guys inspect some new fitting and make sure they are un damaged and send me another set. He said he goes through hundreds of fittings per week and so he didn't think it's a bad lot because he didn't get any other negative feedback. He did say I should try making the hose a little longer to try and put less tension on the fittings. He also said to be sure I lubricant the threads before installing. So sometime in the next week I'll be giving it another go.

Thanks for the advice dripley! I think I am going to move it. The more we are talking about it the easier it's sounding. I just have to finish my wife's car first. I'll have a chance to practice drilling and tapping on that because the little hold down bolts for the front wheel speed sensors in the steering knuckles broke right off.

Thanks for those instructions! When you guys drilled the hole, did you start with the full size bit or do you work your way up from smaller?

I actually just called Eric at Vulcan but got no answer so I'm waiting for him to call back. I will post when I have answers. Thanks everyone for your input!

Will do thanks for the tip! Any measurements for the exact spot to drill?

Totally awesome as that would be, I think it's a little unnecessary for me at this point. I'll just move it as soon as I get a chance. I just looked at my probe and it is kind of like a compressions style fitting. You can probably tell that by the pics I posted. Anyway so now I just have to figure out what size bit and tap to buy. Does anyone have any measurements for placement of the hole? I think I've seen a diagram once but I'm not sure where and I remeber thinking that I wasn't sure if it was correct either

Katoom I'm confused. You are in favor of moving it or not? Lol

What do you have for injectors though? I'm just really concerned about how hot those rear cylinders are actually getting. Last think I wanna do is melt one... if if I do it I'm thinking a magnet should work fine to get the shavings out...

Thank you! I believe I have a 1/8 because that's what autometers instructions say. I also believe the probe comes out of the fitting, does that sound right? How is the best way to remove that fitting from the manifold? Impact gun? Or just soak with PB blaster and then use a wrench?