dieselautopower

the 815 bench calibrates the pumps to have the same specifications for the part #. It takes about 2 hours on the test stand to go through many parameters. If a pump was "hot" to start with it will be de-rated. If a pump is lower on power it will be uprated. Many of the parts are re-used. I have been told that my supplier uses new PSG/computers. I have been told by other rebuilders that the HOTROD pumps are a HO head and that by using NEW head they can flow 5% more than a used head. The heads are expensive that is why if one has a siezed core only a partial credit can be given and one reason why some HOTROD pumps flow more than others.

The Bosch test bench is an "815" Midwest Fuel injectionIndustrialO-F-IBD/Valley Fuelall have these as far as I know. Most of the above have 2 or more test stands. I get my VP44's from Midwest on most occasions. Sold over 200 last year. I do a good volume so I can keep the price down.There are a few smaller shops that have them and I am sure I am missing many shop over on the east coast. Truly it is not a common test stand to have as they are like $250,000

There is not much MPG loss until you get bigger than 100HP. Your diablo power puck does not do boost fooling, so you may want a boost fooler or step up to a more advanced programmer.

Assuming you are putting in bigger injectors (over 200HP) go with a 64/71 if you are on a budget, 64/74 is a little more. Then there are the billet wheels and s400s if you want to be really serious or have big $$. Let me know if you need anything.

Hi, The rv275 with the aftermarket bodies use import parts and are not genuine Bosch. They are less expensive and will increase the HP about 40HP. They have a 1 year warranty and have had pretty good results with them.I recommend injectors with the OEM Bosch bodies.

I am a master distributor for Valair and if you use coupon code VALAIR on my website you get 5% off and free shipping + no tax unless you are in Utah. I stock most of their clutches here and can dropship directly from them as well.When my master/slave cylinder went out I could press the clutch pedal all the way in then it would slowly leak out and engage the clutch. Seems the going rate for a clutch install for 2wd is $300-500, 4wd usually adds $150-200.Feel free to call if you need some help.

Get nozzles with the same spray pattern as your original nozzles

62/480 will keep about 800HP cool. People will do higher, but temps could be an issue is there are not other supporting mods.People make 450hp with a hx35, does not mean it is efficient beyond 300-320HP

62/s475 is overkill for your 7x.010.62/s475 will support 750HPIf you need flanges and clamps or turbos I have them available on my website.

I carry the GM gov pressure solenoid conversion which helps with a lot of shifting problems. Do you have a manual lock up switch?

just an FYI you can get the blue STP oil treatment and use 3x in place of the zinc and its still much cheaper than the zinc additive.

you can check the nozzle orifice size with a pin gauge or check out the nozzle tip as sometimes they are stamped. I can flow the injector, but pop pressure have to be reset.

I have a number of combo packages with lift pump, or the vp44 pump alone. Phone number is in my signature. I have pumps I can ship from 3 locations to help make your delivery fast.

I am not a tech, but what I had mentioned I ran into a lot when I was buying and selling Travel Trailers. Hope you get it figured out.

Would it be worth it to spend and extra $100-125 for the bracket, Parker fuel line that is not brittle like airdogs fuel lines, pushlock fittings? (price is just an estimate and probably low with all the extras.)If one is going to modify the kit it may as well be done right.

I have a sale on full new RV 275 injectors $284 with return of cores http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm (I have about 15 sets in stock) If you want BOSCH RV275 nozzles part #0 433 175 210 Last time I sold some price was about $35 each Aftermarket I can do for $99 shipped with washers

Ok, I don't think it has anything to do with your batteries or power inverter/converter (12->120 to run off batteries or 120-> 12 to run your 12v system when plugged in to shore power.)I think you are overloading the 120v circuit at the source. ie you (or everyone else at the park) are using more energy with the Air Conditioning system than can be supplied. I have also seen this with extension cords or plugging into a 30amp service when a 50amp is needed. even with 8gauge extension, adding some extra feet like +20 feet would sometimes make Air Conditioning work or not work.You might try a different power outlet to plug it into, or turn off all other 120v accessories and see it that works, or if in a park ask them to turn theirs off for a little to see if yours then works.

a 35/40 would work for you. A super B would be a better match.You may also consider a super B turbo as you can get one for $1200 or so + sell your stock turbo for about $300 = about $900 for upgrade cost.With the 35/40 you still only wastegate out of 3 cylinders, will not flow as much air and it is still choked by the 3" exhaust outlet with a poor wastegate design. Pacbrake sells a better elbow (powerflow or something like that for about $200) that allows the wastegated air to flow better, Banks sells the same type of item for more of course.Take the $900 and subtract the cost of upgrading to the 35/40 to determine if the super B is a better option for you.

those "xx filter systems" are ridiculously priced for some powder coating and filters. The cat or donaldson filters do a little better than teh airdog, but the airdog is a nice clean package.I agree that the pushlock fittings are preferred, but for ease of installation the QC connectors shave off some time. I can get the pushlock fittings if one would prefer to re-locate the pump elsewhere. I also have a couple of the perpendicular brackets for quad cab short bed installs, but would require different lengths of lines and the pushlock fittings. I was saving them to re-produce for 2nd gen guys but since airdog when with the QC I think the market would be very small and not feasible.

most rebuilders keep extra shims from injectors that were bad (cross threaded, cracked body etc) not really an affordable place to get them. If you need some nozzles let me know how big you want. I have new nozzles coming in to get flow tested shortly.

A 3200 rpm spring (Bosch Part # is 1-464-650-366), pump tuning and a fuel pin like a Denny T stage 1 or 2 will add a good bit of power.Remember the non intercooled injectors are 155* spray pattern and will flow a good bit more than the intercooled 145* spray for the 1991.5-1993The POD injectors are about 150* and are the wrong spray pattern for both years. They are only a slight improvement for the non IC trucksI have 40HP, 5x.012, 5x.014, 5x.016, 5x.018 in 145*I also have 7x .010, 7x .012, 7x .013, +.... to about 7x.017 in both 145* and 155*

have you done a LOAD TEST on the batteries?BTW I saw a 2500/5000w inverter on amazon for $115. modified sine wave. A smaller one will work for most people, but my 1000/2000 would not run a blender without shutting down.

Airdog has the new Raptor replacement pump that flows about 4x what stock does and has an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Add that to a VP44 and you will be under $1300. I have combos if you need one.Congratulations on the upcoming wedding.

I had a spreadsheet that I made to plug in the fuel price and MPG for certain speeds. Its amazing the saving that can be had, especially when towing.

I have the parts in stock to keep your stock fuel canister if you don't want to by pass it