moostang

Its about 17-18 WOT. I'm assuming the gauge port on the pump is on the output to the vp44 so if it is, what's the difference if the sending unit is on the vp44 fitting or on the airdog? Its just different ends of the same line.

I recently replaced my VP44 and installed an Airdog 150. I started with the bigger spring because I wanted more than 15 psi, but I was getting 20 - 21. I changed the spring and now I have 19-20 psi. This seems a little high to me. Any suggestions on adjusting it? Also the only port for the gauge is on the pump. Is this ok? Before is was on the vp44 fitting.

I just replaced my VP44 and installed my AD 150. The vp44 was a piece of cake, the airdog gave me a little trouble. The problem wasn't with the AD, but the connections on top of the tank. The 150 came with the draw straw which seems to be fine, ran down to 1/8 tank. My problem is the return line into the top of the tank from the engine is rusted and i'm worried it may leak. Is there something I can replace it with? I was going to use the plastic fitting (aux. fuel inlet?) but its right under the bed frame rail and can't get a straight hose on it.Also, after install my EGT's dropped 200 deg. Is that from the vp44 working properly now?

Yeah I'd like to see the module in the tank so I have an idea what I'm getting into.

So its one or the other, not both?

I'm thinking of getting the ADII and the guy at diesel performance products suggested using the kit that comes with the pump and not a draw straw. My question is what is involved with the install (in the tank). Also how do you know if there is an in tank pump or not?

That is good to hear. Save $100 or so.

I'm trying to decide between an airdog 150 or the airdogII. I know the 150 will supply more fuel than I'll need, but they are set at 15psi and I would like to be able to adjust it. 15psi is good, but is it best? I would like to see 16 to 18. Any input would be great.

Thats where I got my bearings. Best price I could find, pretty fast shipping, and I have never had a problem with Timkin bearings. I would have liked to put the free spinning hubs on but couldn't afford it. Just my

Checked Lukes Links, they sound good being repairable but they are about the same price as Rock Auto but more work to install. Not sure which I will get.

I have these on my truck. I love them but they are a little expensive (they were on the truck when I bought it) http://www.powervisionmirrors.com/ Power extend/retract, Adjust, heated

My track bar is getting worn and was wondering if a stock replacement is OK. I have seen the after market ones but wondered if they are worth the extra $.

Where would I find info on the coolant bypass system?

Does anyone know the torque specs for these nuts?

I thought I did enough research before I bought it, but I learn more all the time. Most of which is thanks to everyone here

I just found out about the "53 block" and I have one. Does anyone know what the odds are that it will crack? It has 180,000 miles now and the person who had it before me used it to pull fifth wheel and goose neck trailers. It seems to have been well taken care of and is still fine. Should I be worried?

Are all the filters listed the same size or just similar dimensions?

My ABS light and brake light were on until I changed my front wheel bearings. One had a lot of play in it and I dont think the sensor could read anything

Dually has a very good thread on this. I just did ball joints, bearings, and u joints on mine and his tips worked great.

Here are some from ebay http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3872.m39.l1313&_nkw=Fram+CA6818&_sacat=

Thanks everyone for the input. I found Timken bearings at Rock Auto for $204 each. That's the best I could find. Hub and Bearing Warehouse has great prices but don't carry 99 with ABS. I have always had good luck with Timken. I'm also going with MOOG ball joints and replacing the ujoints while I'm there. Unfortunately I'll be in the cold in the driveway and we are under a blizzard warning right now.

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I can't afford $800 just for the bearings:spend: thats why I was wondering if a 2000 is the same. I can get them for $99 each

My wheel bearings are shot and I'm having trouble finding the right ones. My truck is a 99 and has front ABS, is this unusual? Th person at hub and bearing warehouse didn't know that 99's came with front ABS. Would bearings for a 2000 work?

I have used the string method a lot on off road vehicles. It should get you close until you can get it in. Just give it a small amount of toe in.

The ebay site Russ gave for the bhaf now has them for $39.95 with free shipping. I think I'll get one http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3872.m39.l1313&_nkw=Fram+CA6818&_sacat It was there earlier today but now it doesn't come up = http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400173793961+&viewitem= or this one