Towrigdually

yes! I ordered the bags for a C&C 3500 because I didn’t have the ability to make mounts. https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Dodge/Ram+Pickup/2001/F2220.html?VehicleID=20011009447 just did a 8k trip with them pulling the gooseneck no problems at 55psi truck rode level

rear has a traditional Detroit locker, took some shim work but fits and operates normally. Reason for shim is it’s for 4.10 and up and I have 3.55 still. Had to take the shins from both sides and place them to one, the right I think? front has a power trax lock-right, nothing special. Kind of a pain in the street when turning, especially in 4x4 but great when going in a straight line. debating on putting lock out hubs on the front to combat this. Cause I don’t wanna deal with and air or electric locker from ARB due to I want simplicity in a locker. im not sure of the part numbers but I can look for them when I get home. I’m gunna stop by later and hopefully find out, it’s a shell that’s always getting new fuel since it’s by the highway and a farming community so. Hopefully it’s good stuff.

Possibly? it’s a C series engine, while 12/24v are B series. But as long as the front gear housing would bolt up I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Things that come to mind is if the pump is bolted higher in case and gear don’t contact, or something with the pump gear Itself being to big/small, cut differently.

Not sure if I agree with the diesel 911 testing, cause doesn’t it go in the tank AFTER the fuel is gelled? But other than that, seems like a solid testing effort. i don’t know the guy, but wanted to share.

I thought about doing that, but between moving from WA to OK I didn’t want to mess with more fab work than I needed to, already had to finish up the trailer. but I do like the Square tubing supports you have under the bottom plate, I’m thinking of doing that to mine, after the last few days they have a bit of a sag inward so supports are in the future regardless

I’m sure it’s possible, the frames are the same I believe.

Since putting bigger tires on the 3 tons of fun, I don’t have the clearance for over the spring bags, So the hunt began. I went with firestone F2220 bags, they go inside the frame and and ment for a 2001 dodge 3500 cab and chassis. according to firestone, etrailer, and a few other company’s they shouldn’t work. But they do with minor modification. ended up elongating the airbag mounting holes by 1/4” and they you can clear the lip on the frame that is bent downward. If you wanted to you could grind out this one spot where the inward nut sits (which is the reason to modify) but to each there own. I didn’t want to cut the frame. Once up they work great, I will be towing with them this weekend and hopefully will be able to tell the difference between without bags and with. Hope this helps someone if they have larger tires on a dually also.

If you can hear it through the air box it might be a weak or bad injector, even though you just replaced them. Could also be echo bouncing back from the house it's parked beside. could try running the truck and one at a time loosen the HP fuel line at the head and listen, if it changes tone it's good. If it doesn't change then that injector could be bad.

Is there a general area that you hear the sound? Left side, right side, in the wheel wells? Cause I don't hear anything out of ordinary on video, but maybe bad hearing strikes again.

If ya don't mind me asking, how are the m55's? They hold up decent?

If I remember correctly, I called the guys at quad4x4.com out of Montana and they had the bushing. Needed it when I rebuilt the t-case in my truck.

Running Detroit axle brand ball joints in my 95 1500 4x4, 40k of daily/off-roading/36" rubber they still are fine. also run them on the wife's jeep with 20k so far and no issue. when it's the Cummins turn for ball joints it'll most likely get them.

i dont have a BD, but i have the DPS 3 piece. bought it after the OEM cracked. it seemed to spool faster, but thats all i really noticed. either way 4 years later havent had any issues.

trying to flash an XZT, i followed the video for windows 7 using the 32 bit installer. i click the tune file to download from the desktop after plugging in the box, i then click ''get information from module'' but i keep getting a popup box saying retry or cancel, even after multiple retry attempts. unplugging and plugging in, even downloading the tune again and still the same thing. any idea? ive also tried 3 different cords that all say data transfer so those are good too.

i thought those were for the adrenaline only, i can use them on mine?

Dumb question, but where is everyone getting xzt tunes from?? I wanna try a different tune for mine, I can follow the downloading video no problem but I've looked all over for tunes but can't find any.

after todays travelling, it goes away with the switch off. i guess its time to upgrade and learn.

Ill give it a shot today after filling up. have about 2hrs to go. I'll have to download the tuner downloader software and try and see what helps. If not I'll be adrenaline bound.

I was thinking that to, gunna try a reset tommorow after I wash all the grime off. Dont wanna fire the parts cannon just yet.

So your saying it's possible. Interesting. I maybe have to dust off the laptop.

Left yesterday to go get a new trailer. And I'm not sure if this is a tuner issue or a truck issue. Codes on truck are for ABS only. When the truck is running 70 at 2k rpm with XZT on the 75hp mode it'll surge. I can drive it out with my foot and it'll go away below 1800rpm and above 2300 rpm. When cruise control is set it doesn't do it at all. When set to MPG mode it does it light surge and still have to play with throttle or set cruise to get rid of it. With switch to off its hard to tell when it surges. Now, with the trailer behind it and the switch to 75hp position, it surges when I'm going down a grade and try to keep my foot where it maintains a set speed but if I let off and just coast down its smooth. And when I'm trying to run 55-60mph if I'm between 2000-2250 rpm it surges but if I get to about 23-2400rpm it's no problem. Also, with cruise set it goes away. Hopefully someone one smarter than me can recommend something? During the entire trip fuel pressure was never less than 15psi, fuel never below 1/4 tank, didn't break 190*f either. new trailer photo just because

surface grinder works the best if you access to one. Hardest part is setting up the table to hold the head so you have the entire surface available and don't have to changing mounting halfway through. but when I needed mine done and didn't have access to a shop I use a big rig machine shop. They knew the head casts by number and what to look for. Showed me the common problem areas. Even took a picture of the head after the first pass and how bad it was. couldn't complain about the 1 day turnaround either or the price.

between the video and post here I know more than I did last week about the magical box that fuels the oil burner. But Even if the VP has been known to be problematic, stuffs out there to fix the issues. every truck of any brand is gunna have issues. This truck is just a fuel or electronic gremlin. Still, glad to have bought a truck with an easily drivable an tunable pump regardless of location and climate i find myself in.

Same, atleast I know what I'm talking about now with the pump!

Should Be straight forward. Hardest bolts to remove will be the on bottom, especially the front in my experience. You wont be the first to replace a turbo in a hotel lot, I had to replace mine and also remove, clean, and replace the intercooler when my new turbo went out last spring in Alabama! But the hotel people didn't care, just clean up your mess best ya can.