smokeythedodge

Yeah its either the o-rings are bad, the plug is cracked, or the plastic radiator end is cracked(unlikely) You can purchase a new plug and o ring set from dodge for a fairly reasonable price. You will have to drain the coolant out though of course, so just get a couple 5 gallon pails and save it to pour back in when you're done.

Well first I would try bleeding the clutch disengage cylinder. Easy to do and you don't have to remove the transmission. It really sounds like it is an issue with the clutch not being disengaged completely by the disengage cylinder or there are some broken fingers on the pressure plate. NOW, as far as the bolt you can see lying in your bell housing, that will need to be addressed for sure.. Try to grab it with a magnet, I can tell you where it goes by looking at it, but it sounds like one of the flywheel-to-crankshaft securing bolts or a bolt to secure the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. Either way, if one fell out it is more than likely there are others that weren't properly installed and torqued. Sucks I know......

It very well may be the ECM programming after the rebuild. Might consider getting a dodge dealer to "flash" it, that might be your best bet if you think your problem started after the ecm was installed. There are several different types of programming, from what I understand, between the various years and motors. I know the HO engines ECM computers have different programming than a 99 engine. Also from what i understand, some years of ECMs also didn't have the electronic cruise control feature designed into their hardware- chips and stuff, but that is just third hand rumors from forums..... You might try to call up "Smarty" and ask them, they would know for sure without a doubt- they manufacture programmers for these motors... As far as "sensor inputs for the cruise" goes, pretty much everything feeds into it from what I understand. It is controlled by the ECM computer on the engine, so it looks at everything before it will engage or disengage. You know like brake pedal switch, speedometer and who knows what all else, that would be a question I don't have the answer to.

Get a scanner and watch the rail pressure while you are cranking.Also get a manual oil pressure gauge and plumb it in to verify oil pressure it takes a few seconds of 700-800 rpm to get the oil pressure up, but you're not really gonna have any just using the starter crankin on it.

Beastly!!!

Holy moly, wish I had some stuff that big stuff like that down here! That a stihl saw you got there?? I have a little ms290, thinking about picking up a 441 magnum, mine gets bogged down on some stuff.

What kind of splitter do you have? That is some beast sized cuts. Nothing that big down here on my land... Have 140 acres of small to medium sized oak trees... I built my own log splitter out of an i-bean and a bunch of 1/2" angle, 1/2" flat bar, and a hydraulic cylinder. Run it off my kubota tractor. Need to get a picture of the beast haha. I heat my whole house in the winter time with wood, love it. You cut a bunch??

Not to be a spoilsport or rain on your parade kind of guy, the following is just my opinion... There are a ton of 5.9 Cummins out there with thousands of hours and hundreds of thousands of miles with the stock oil filter. Personally, I would take that money and put it away in a special little savings account just for oil changes... My math says that you will be able to change your oil with that money for a few years.. Say 5 changes per year, 30 bucks a change. 150 bucks a year. That is 4 years or 600 dollars. factor in inflation and you will be pretty close to what that fancy filter will cost. Just my opinion though.....

What are you needing to get done? Sounds like they are pretty good, googled a little bit they seem to have a reputation. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/central/139407-great-big-thank-you-floor-diesel.html

Do you have the electronic cruise? I know all late 01 and 02 6 speeds did. I went through hell trying to fix mine.... I honestly couldn't tell you the one thing that did it, but here is what I did, all about the same time.... Both front wheel speed sensors, rear diff. speed sensor, clockspring, cruise switch on left side of the steering wheel, and since my brake lights were also on I replaced the ABS module with one I had laying around the shop, and changed ECM's to another I had laying around the shop. I wish I could tell you what did it, but I had gathered everything up and changed it all in one evening. Took care of all my brake lights and the cruise started to work again... I would start with the wheel speed sensors maybe... You can just get some from a Dodge dealer and if that fixes it then great, if not you could just return them and tell them they were the wrong kind or something. I was about ready to take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it if I wasn't able to get the parts.

You ever used "time-sert" inserts before?

Hey bill,Injector pump maybe? Are there any codes? I remember you telling me about this problem a while back, just can't remember some specifics. jon

Mine went 160k

Oh no! That sucks! Call me if you need any tools or anything, should still have my number in one of those pm's, ill be around okc all day. Good luck.

Yeah they are sure proud of em aren't they? That's the only bad part about them................... But mr. dripley is right, those little things would be hard pressed to air up an rv tire to 80 psi, just seems like one of those cheap kinda gizmos that break after a year or so and end up being a waste of money. But that is just my opinion.............they may be really good, i have no idea!

Yee haw then thats the way to do it, get r done. unsubscribed.

Why would you let him do that? Have you had it pressure checked and fluxed to see if it is even cracked? You would be throwing money away if you do, that is worth about 250 as a core if it's not cracked.

God I wish I could just get this motor in my shop and test it and fix it. EDIT: That was a little rude, poorly worded on my part after a bad day, apolgies... I have a few spare sets of injectors, but with shipping you are going to be close to what you can get a used set for on ebay to your door. But if you are really in a bad way and have to run the truck, I'll help you out with some injectors to try, no problem. PM me if you want. I can also mail you some stuff to do a cylinder leak down test if you are so inclined... --- Update to the previous post... Don't run it until you do some diagnostics on it.... It could cost you a lot more money than you would lose having it down... You need to pressure check your cooling system... check cylinders for adequate compression.... but first, like you said, get some injectors some way some how, and see if that fixes it.

I have one of these, use it on my little boat for bowfishing. It is really quiet http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k09oeVnFVI&feature=related You could use any kind of small compressor with it you'd like! Oughta fit pretty nice behind your passenger or driver seat if you have a quad cab. Those things like what you are talking about are all pretty crappy......

First time I did one, we had the truck up on the lift I broke or bent a drawer full of various 1/2 inch drive snap on breaker bars and ratchets, then put a 4 foot cheater pipe over a snap on 3/4" breaker bar, didn't budge... Had to call another guy over to help pull down on it before we snapped it. That thing is tight! I am going to have to get one of these beast impact gun's Wild and Free uses ^^^^ --- Update to the previous post... Man it is awesome to have you on this site! Tons of real world experience! I'm just a kid though with tons to learn.... Got any suggestions for a good 3/4" impact gun?? I guess IR would be a good one? I have had awesome success with other IR tools. You are sooo right that thing is LOUD!!! *** *** *** *** it does good on about everything I have ever tried to use it on, except the dana 80 pinion nut....

Ah ok that is cool. I have the yellow IR one called the "thunder gun." What do you do about torquing it back down? Just guess?

That looks fun!!!

I heard they are supposed to add lubricative additives at the refinery to bring the lubricity down to where it needs to be? http://www.deere.com/en_US/ag/servicesupport/tips/tractors/common_stories/ultra_low_sulfur_diesel_fuel.html# Generally speaking, the same oil refinery process used to reduce Sulfur content also removes Oxygen, Nitrogen, aromatic compounds, and other key characteristics in diesel fuel, which are considered to be natural fuel lubricity agents. Sulfur content by itself has little to do with fuel lubricity. Many oil refineries are now adding back in other fuel lubricity agents to prevent the former diesel fuel lubricity and rubber seal deterioration fiasco experienced back in 1993 and 1994. Reducing the sulfur content of diesel fuel from 500 ppm to 15 ppm will have no significant effect on engine fuel economy, fuel density, fuel heating value, or fuel lubricity. For your reference, here are the current and future government regulations addressing diesel fuel Sulfur content in the United States and Europe.

Dunno, that sounds right though, this guy wont divulge his secret unless its over the phone, but I can't get a-hold of him. Just some low life junkyard trash, Wade Johnson is the guy's name, he is down by Stratford. He had it advertised on craigslist as "cummings engine" $1500

Sounds easy!!!! I don't know man, I've got a pretty sweet 1/2 inch impact gun, supposedly does 650 ft lbs and it wouldn't budge that nut. NO problem on a 10 bolt chevy rear end or a dana 70, all day long easy! But this thing is torqued to like 500 lbs on a dana 80 and its a nylock nut with green thread locker paste they put on at the factory. Sure, it's real nice if you have a 3/4 impact, that makes life a lot easier. Dana 70 torque is like 250 or thereabouts, Dana 80 torque is like 500 ish. What 1/2 impact do you use?? I want one