WiscoRedkneck

@ty_lowcountry My local shop did my Suncoast stage one with one year unlimited milage warranty, installed without torque converter for 2200, spent 1200 on the converter. I also spent about 300 to convert all hard lines to soft lines and add 2 new coolers eliminating the liquid to liquid oil cooler below the turbo. The lines are equivalent to what you would find on a cat front end loader, believe it or not they are better and cheaper than stainless braided I did this after I kept having fluid leaks from to liquid to liquid cooler, one time leaving me stranded 300 miles from home.

I will look at the connection on the block side. Thank you And where I was located at the time I was on generator power and the barn lights were on and my inline meter showed good voltage. The cord was another story, the first one I used had a light up end that lit up but passed no voltage, the second cord did. I carry a Klein tools voltage polarity tester all the time and confirm power and correct polarity to the cord when ever plugging in.

150k on the original I could have kept going but I was towing heavy and the trans would slip from 2nd to 3rd. I put a stock rebuild in along with a smarty programmer killed that trans at 179k. Then I had a shop install a stage one Suncoast and that is still going today with 315k.

New solenoids have studs for four trigger wires and four main studs. My old one had two open studs where trigger wires go is that correct or am I missing something like a jumper or another trigger wire? Currently one is 12v+ the other shows ground on a meter.

Thanks for the help I'll figure it out I know there is more than one problem The block heater ohmed out at 21.9 if you have another way to test the heater let me know otherwise I will just replace it. Book says if it's less than 25 ohms it's good so I don't understand what's up. Then I will replace the grid relays and rewire the grids hoping it was done right to begin with after the restoration.

@Me78569 I have fairly major issues regarding the grid heaters, 2 volts max and the wiring is definitely something that got messed with and messed up during the restoration. To start all the rubber insulator caps were melted in place a few connections are corroded and somehow my headlights still dim when they try to kick in. I am going to concentrate on this repair and then evaluate other things as I proceed, thank you for your help.

Okay thank you for the clarification, so we have a heat wave going right now so I plan to do a blowby pressure check and test the grid heaters. Is it common for people to take one out?

@Me78569 I don't quite understand the end of your post do you believe the grid heaters are part of the issue or no?

all cylinders were between 370 and 400, the injectors have never been tested since I planned to replace them when I started building the truck but got into an accident so I never did. I will do a blowby pressure test today, but I will stick to my belief that there is an issue with the grid heaters or the injectors. In those Temps how long did your wait to start light take to go off? Mine stays on for about 20 seconds and doesn't change much when cycling it more than once

So super long story short motor was gone through by Cummins N power in Oak Creek(compression test, valve adjust and visual inspection of injectors because at the time I planned to replace with RV type. The only issue was the turbo endplay was a bit sloppy so we stuck a new hybrid turbo on.... that was 5 years ago, now 4 years and 8 months ago I lost control and went sideways into a tree hard drivers side was destroyed but frame was straight. Truck was restored/rebuilt, put back on the road in July So at this point unless something was totally missed inside the motor by a shop that offers manufacturer warranty on rebuilds. my only concerns are block heater(tested at 21.9 ohms), oil weight, grid heaters and thank you Mike good point on the injectors and cetane. I had power service and 2 stroke in the fuel at the time and feel there wasn't an issue there, but cetane levels are uncharted waters for me.... Oh and I will look into the link issue it works on my end maybe Mike could help a tech novice that seems to fail often on here with media

First off, Merry Christmas, second off I would like to say thank you to TFAORO for helping me get the truck running while off grid in -10 degrees Fahrenheit I had a 10 mile ride on a wheeler just to get a form of cell reception then for Tyler to respond quickly was awesome . So long short this is her first winter back on road 99 24 valve 5.9 4x4 auto with 320k on the clock basic mods and hybrid turbo, full frame off restoration... because of that I'm not ruling anything out yet. The facts Outside temp was -10 dropping to -14f blowing 20mph Truck was plugged in on generator power for 6 hours tested for good voltage to find it present.... Oil weight 15w-40 dino 90 percent sure it mobil delvac Use to run 10/30 but was advised against by parts store. I will get to this in a moment. Fuel was treated and sample sitting on porch had not gelled Truck was near impossible to start and once started oil pressure never came up I shut down after 6 seconds and tried again nothing. Contacted Tyler removed injection pump wires(flipped dead man switch) and cranked Started once more and after 6 seconds I had oil pressure and truck went to 3 cylinder high idle Where I got confused is this Block heater even at that outside temp should maintain a block temp that doesn't cause the truck to go into high idle imho. Now I tested heater continuity and got 21.9 ohms a bit high but still in range. My questions are is 5w-40 synthetic ok/good fit for the truck it's expensive and I don't want to be wasteful, and will that remedy some of the cold start issues. And what would you guys recommend for checking block heater and the grid heaters, I think that about covers it. I'm throwing in this video it's not my truck but my truck acted nearly identical just a little more difficult to start.

So between my old man and I we have installed aftermarket and factory parts for nearly 60 years combined. that being said some aftermarket is questionable (big chains) napa has even cut costs I've noticed. But the reliability is still there..... Universal replacement is trouble I lost my antenna when I swapped bodies then installed a universal mast that broke off at 75 MPH and almost broke my passenger window. The base had to be replaced as well and factorychryslerparts.com came through with base and mast for the same price as just the base from the dealer.... this site is powered by a dealer sourcing new old stock parts from discontinued and current dealers holding stock on shelves collecting dust... On the flip side my OEM Chrysler stamped 600 dollar rear window leaks and not many people like to work on these trucks rear window so I have to pay lots of money to fix a new window, I don't get it.... Surprised no one mentioned Mopar going under and needing to liquidate stock and dealers... ie oem parts and so on, then overhead went up on remaining parts, therefore price went up along with contractor changes due to the need to cut costs. Another item to consider I believe you are correct on the ten year mark but year 1 to 5 the part carries a premium then year 5 to 10 they try to clear them out then after year 10 price often starts creaping up again.... That being said I go aftermarket unless it's not available then I hit up this site for info then this one factorychryslerparts.com then compare with dealer

Ya but 2 hours to go 22 miles in rush hour traffic with a loaded trailer..... I want to walk after I'm done driving I'm sure yall know what I mean those orange barrels suck

35/40 hybrid turbo and no sticks with smarty and level 1 built auto. all I can say is if it's an automatic with over 100k and you want to tow and have power get a transmission first. Mine was bought after I blew my stocker and I needed the truck but didn't have money for the transmission I wanted because I put it elsewhere in the truck and now 50k miles later that 2500 dollar transmission worries me.... BTW I have 305k on the truck I'm on my third transmission and can't even utilize all my power because the transmission won't hold, you can feel it slip on the last 2 levels..... you are on the right path, plan a good foundation and build off of it.

So glad to here all is fairly well and your truck is home. funny mods got it stolen but also more importantly got it back home and more entertaining that you had mentioned in a post that your quad may do exactly what it did to the thieves.... On security though.... both my switchs are in and invisible but do to public nothing has been posted in their regard you have my number if you want info. Either way awesome end to a horrible start

I vote lash as well otherwise get a northern tool 5 dollar stethoscope to help isolate location block or head..... Also I'd say change the oil but put cheese cloth over the pan to filter oil through it can get messy so plan accordingly once drained pull cloth and inspect with daylight followed by the brightest light you have access to... you likely won't see anything but with the light if you have issues the cloth will likely glint or glare from shiny metal if you see that jar up some drain oil and send it out for analysis.... best of luck

So the old Holley black died over labor day weekend and I am back to a used stock pump for the time being good news is with the programmer out I can't pull this Stocker below 8 psi at wot and this pump has over 150k it's still kicking due to using two stroke religiously thanks Mike for a great tip.... So fuel pump just ramped up on the priority list.... Stock housing must stay due to 0 degree weather so heater is a must, I'm concerned with damage to the mechanical pump with no pre filter due to foreign debris ingestion Should I be concerned? my 150 dollar pump lasted 7 years is it worth the upgrade and price for the mechanical?

If you have wrenches a few hog rings(not needed if old are salvaged) and pliers(needed regardless) for said hog rings, you can change it in less than 45 minutes 4 bolts underneath seat remove plastic clips pull off fabric remove 3 or 4 hog rings pull off cushion install new cushion and secure with hog rings install seat heater if you want the upgrade install fabric install seat base..... enjoy freedom from back aches after hours behind the windscreen I installed this in a friend's truck and after driving his it will be one of my next upgrades.

So haven't thrown a mechanical gauge on the truck yet but had a scare over the weekend that needed attention..... lift pump issues but with Mike's two stroke oil idea a old lift pump with over 150k is back in the truck and pushing 8-9 psi at wot.... it's been defueled but still that's a stock lift pump thanks Mike for a great tip.... Now if it would stop pouring here for more than 30 minutes I'd go out and futz with the truck because I am curious to put a scan tool on it followed by a mechanical Would the oil pressure sensor be reading post oil filter levels? And if so will the port on the filter housing read post or pre?

So haven't thrown a mechanical gauge on the truck yet but had a scare over the weekend that needed attention..... lift pump issues but with Mike's two stroke oil idea a old lift pump with over 150k is back in the truck and pushing 8-9 psi at wot.... it's been defueled but still that's a stock lift pump thanks Mike for a great tip.... Now if it would stop pouring here for more than 30 minutes I'd go out and futz with the truck because I am curious to put a scan tool on it followed by a mechanical Would the oil pressure sensor be reading post oil filter levels? And if so will the port on the filter housing read post or pre?

Ya I felt like an idiot when I reviewed the pictures after talking with Tyler The motor didn't even have twins nor was it painted also it didn't have head studs very obvious items I should have noticed.....

It was a dead end sorry I didn't properly inform my uncle on engine specifics and other items the engine wasn't even close upon further exam.....

Tfaoro please message me my uncle may have found something around the Las Vegas area.... it was just posted and they are trying to sell quick

So I am ready to upgrade my lift pump but I am torn between electric and mechanical.... Electric pros are slightly lower cost and I can run pre and post filters on the pump The mechanical pump I like more but it seams you can only run the stock filter housing and I'm not to comfortable with that idea.... What are your thoughts are there different filter options out there that I am not seeing for the mechanical? I'm looking at the gdp fuel boss if that changes anything

I was under the impression that I could pull the sensor and install my pressure guage in line with it through a t... then run it up to the cowl and set the guage where the driver can see it and drive it and see how the two compare or can I see pressure through a scanner or programmer through obd2 port