Rogan

Well, without getting into "Germany is better than Sweden, or vice versa. both saws are quality tools.I can say, though, that I met the guy this morning about 745am. Looked it over, compression checked it, fired it (3 pulls to run), paid for it, threw it in the truck and headed home. Got home about 1000-1030, took the saw out and sat it in the garage.About 1130-1200, I went back out to the garage to show my wife the saw. flips the switch on, pulled the choke, yanked it one time and vroom! Afterward, I took the covers off and cleaned it up. About 600-630 this evening, I went to put everything away, and grabbed the saw.. flipped it on, pulled the choke, yanked once.. Vroom (again)..My HP 46cc has always taken 10-12 yanks to get it to run.. I've got a 30" L x 8"D piece of hickory laying in the garage (for the smoker ). So, I fired the saw up and buried the bar into the log. This sliced right through the hickory with a quickness. Now I need a case..

1st or 2nd pull and it's running.. 157psi compression. Its like pull-starting a dirt bike though! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

So I picked up the Husky 61 this morning. One word: BEAST$200Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

What turbo are you running?Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

That's what she said... Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I may pick this 61 Pro up tomorrow if he calls back. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

no one? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I agree on the cuts but they're still good I rarely smoke beef. Pork butts and ribs mostly. I slow-smoked some venison for a coworker a week ago ad it was really good. Used apple and smoked really low and slow for about 13hrs .Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah, and people rode horses everywhere. LolSo apparently w&f will be turning down my smoked ribs and brisket.. ;)Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Bring it!Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, CSM is about on the money. Unfortunately, it's quite difficult to tell without pulling it all apart..Mine is supposed to be a 'built' trans, but I've no real way of knowing, afaik.

Armor. M60A3 and M1A1. Had an 02 Wrx with 500whpSent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

WTF??? - - - Updated - - - Welcome to M73M.com family, Corey! We're happy to have you here, even if lightnin cant remember where he is.. Throw your truck info into your signature; it'll make helping later, much easier. I, too, served Army. 19E/19K MOSs. Judging by your screenname, apparently you are/have been a Subaru owner at some point? If so, me too LOL (I have a SB DD3850# laying in the garage for my future manual swap, if I ever get around to doing it..)

so I did some wire chasing last night on the old truck.. Researching why my OSS is throwing a code. Wiring diagrams ('97, '99, '02) all show the OSS with a LG/BK (1) signal wire color, and a DkB/BK (2) OSS ground wire color. OSS (1) goes to PCM, C2-B25, OSS (@) goes to PCM, C2-B28 with no connections/plugs between the OSS and the PCM. My truck: OSS1 is pinkish, OSS2 is BK. The wires go up the Driver's side of the firewall to the main harness at a "T" (one side of the T goes inside cab, the other side goes to PDC area) and disappears into the big harness.. I used a fox/hound (Fig. A) to try and trace the wires, but it was useless. I could get no solid signal, as there was too much bleed-over everywhere. The other main issue is that PCM C2-B25 & B28 have no wiring in the plug. This truck was originally a manual trans truck, so that is understandable. Question: Can I just rob a couple pins from a spare/junk plug, install them into C2 on my truck, and run new wires from the OSS to the C2 connector? The issues I'm having are: [*]P0720 code [*]1-2 shift at 10mph [*]2-3 shift at 18mph [*]OD shift at 20-22mph [*]Only get a downshift if speeds are < 10mph Fig. A

come on over! Smoking some St Louis cuts this weekend and a brisket. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ATTACH]4549[/ATTACH] For some reason tapatalk is turning the pictures... Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Husqvarna 61 w/20" bar. fresh bar, chain, tune. $250, no case. runs greatWorth it?

That's what I'm thinking, too..

285s are not OEM. You have 265s, Russ

Right off the bat, I'd stick with the 4.10s. ESPECIALLY since you're running the 285s. Dropping to a 3.55 RP, you're gonna see a drop in fuel economy, especially in city driving. If you're close 21-24mph range, count your blessings; especially with those tires. My '97 3500 with 4.10s, 235s, and auto will struggle to get 13mpg, and it's my only means of mobility. My old 2001 2500 with 235s, 3.55, 6 speed, Edge Juice, got best of 18, once. I think M73M is an exception to the rule of the 24V society, when it comes to awesome mpgs (and hair. )

Yeah.. Dude backed out... :banghead:

I'll give it a whirl.. looks similar to the ones I have, but not identical. they' wouldn't "close the circuit" until well into the 220*F range, per my thermometer and a pan of hot water.

I believe (as an average) that most autos have 3.55s anyway. My 1-ton has 4.10s, but it was originally a 5spd (prev. owner converted it to an auto )I drive about 70% city per tank, and about 80% towing per tank, and average around 11.8-12.5 in my dually.You'll drop about 200-250rpm rpm at 60-65mph when going from the 4.10 to the 3.54s, but it may put your truck into it's sweet-spot.

Good deal, Dana!