Rogan

you can test, also: pop out the driver's side switch assembly, unplug. Find Pink/Violet (pin 5)and Orange/Violet (pin1). Using 12v and ground jumper wires, apply 12v (pin 3) to one of the violet-striped wires, and gnd (pin 2) to the other.. The door lock should trip (or unlock.) reverse your jumpers and repeat. the lock should trip the other way. It's a 5-wire revering polarity design. If this works, then I'd test the switch assembly for continuity of the adjoining pins in the switch. Repeat this process for the passenger-side door switch assembly. Drivers Side wiring: 1 - ORG/VIO - to Pass. pin 4 2 - BLK/ORG - to ground (also to drivers pin 4) 3 - RED - to 12V (fuse 19) 4 - see pin 2 above 5 - PNK/VIO - to Pass. pin 2 Pass. Side wiring: 1 - ORG/BLK - to lock motors 2 - PINK/VIO - to drivers pin 5 3 - RED - 12V (fuse 19) 4 - ORG/VIO - Drivers Pin 1 5 - PNK/BLK - to lock motors

So I moved my outside temp probe to the drivers' core support up-right, just right of the driver's headlight. This seems to be really accurate, except when sitting still (duh)..

Sound like possibly the master switch Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

added boost numbers to previous post..also, this truck doesn't pull like the old ones did. By 'pull', I mean accelerate as quickly. This one also seems like, say, from a stop, to flat-out mash to the mat, it doesn't pull real strongly, as I manually go through the gears. And the pedal doesn't really feel like it travels very far..(that part might just be in my mind.)But it doesn't really have the uhmph that either of the other trucks had..

something else to add for ISX's request is EGT..My old 12V would run at, say, 55mph, no load, about 500-600*F (probe in the exhaust manifold.) Boost no load 2-4psi. loaded/towing, flat, 5-10psi.My 24V was just about the same.This one runs closer to the 600+ mark, and the probe is in the DP, just after the turbo.. It should run cooler there, but that is not the case. Possibly a bad/weak probe, but not sure..55mph no load, ~4-5psiloaded can be anywhere from 5-12psi on fairly flat ground.

basically, the Borg box is a little bigger, and slightly moved the output shaft about 1/8"-1/4" to the right (IIRC). The brace, you'll need to "slot" the bearing bolt-holes to accommodate this, as well as the bearing's center opening, so that the bearing assembly can slide over a little to center on the shaft..A dremel should suffice.

post a picture of your fob

Previous 12V: Timing @ 16* 4" DP w/7" stack, no muffler 265-75-16 #10 fuel plate full forward star wheel full forward 3K GSK BHAF Boost elbow haze on cold startup/warmup, clean after that, except for obvious acceleration As an auto: 15-17 city, 22-23 hwy empty 13-15 towing - shifted normally, didn't seem to slip at all when accelerating as going through the gears - 2nd gear shift @ 15, 3rd shift at ~30, OD ~40, Lockup ~50mph (all subsequent gear changes after 1st seems positive and firm, no noticeable slippage As a 5 speed: 17-18 city, 25-27 hwy empty, 21-22 towing Current 12V: Timing ?? 4" TBE with muffler 235-85-16 #0 fuel plate, position unknown yet star wheel unknown stock GSK BHAF no boost elbow haze on startup/warmup, clean after that, except for obvious acceleration As an auto: 12-13 city/hwy, emtpy/towing - shifts abnormally, seems to slip in 3rd when accelerating as going through the gears - 2nd gear shift @ 10, 3rd shift at ~20, OD shortly/immediately after, Lockup ~50mph 3rd gear seems slippy, as does OD at lower speeds. Lockup feels like direct drive (as it should) - Manually shifting is what I almost have to do in order to reduce/minimize the slipping and/or early gear changes

Is it the OE keyless or aftermarket keyless?

I assume you're referring to the OE keyless entry system?Are they the original fobs?if they always unlock, but not always lock, it could be a programming issue, possibly.Also, they locks won't lock when the key is turned on (factory, anyway). Mine always locked at about 10-15mph or so.Out of curiosity, have you replaced the master switch assembly in the drivers door?

where'd you get your 60?

Are you referring to a steering stabilizer, or a steering brace? Brace needs modded a little bit. stabilizer would not.

welcome

I didn't say it "was the reason", but more of a strong possibility?

So I've been driving my 'new'sed 97 DRW for a few months now..12V, 135k, auto, 4.10, 235/85-16s, BHAF, #0 plate, 4" exhaust...Best tank MPG: 13.1Avg tank MPG: 12.3-12.7Talked to a buddy of mine that has near exact truck and mods. He has a #10 plate though.. he averages about 17-18mpg and has very similar driving habits and city/highway mix as I do..Thinking maybe I need to get a few things checked out:timingfuel plate positioningvalve lashThoughts? (ISX)

you realize this thread is almost 3 yrs old?guinnessbrewer:Join Date 01-16-2010 Last Activity 07-16-2012

I like the idea of Genos cb mount, but not at 45-50$ for a small piece of sheet metal with a couple bends and slots in it..

Damned right! Happy Birthday (since I missed it) to you! old fart

You should..However, my 2001 had Premium Sound.. I replaced the head unit and kept the stock speakers without touching the amp section..On the 2Gen trucks, the amp(s) are on the back of the factory stock speakers in the doors. Only the door speakers and tweeters are amplified.

Oh wow. I got a little chubby watching that video...

The small form factored CBs are great for installing in vehicles with few and small spaces to mount. If you was a full-sized radio, you can't go wrong with a Cobra 29 LTD Classic. They're very tunable, and with a good antenna, they can really 'talk'. As for antennas, K40 and Wilson are among the top contenders.

way to dodge company, mikie.. LOL

Ive read a bunch, and watched a ton of videos on this.. Apparently, a little is a lot, when it comes to porting the muffler.. I plan on doing this, once I get a tach for tuning the carb.It seems pretty straight-forward.If you haven't already, John, peruse the Arborsite forum. Tons of info there on it.

oh wow. I wonder if the trans and stuff (shafts, etc.) are okay.. I'd obviously need all that stuff. Is it a QCLB?

Naw.. that trans would blow for sure! Hell, it wouldn't even torque the tires over with all the slippage! lol "Built trans" my arse..