Rogan

Truck was originally a manual trans truck (hole in the floor, lack of PRND21 in cluster, 215HP pump, lack of correct PCM auto trans wiring, etc. etc.) Ive done the swaps before from original autos to manuals, and that's fairly easy. This one would be a cake walk to put back. And I've not done donuts in walmart parking lot.. at least not in this truck Truck's got 135K on the motor.. 1500mi on the trans.. That's interesting... Is it a total? Do you know if it's 2500/3500/DRW, etc? I've really had nothing but issues with this truck since I got it, and I'm quite fed up with it.. I love the 3500 and DRW, and especially the 12V.. but the biggest issue I have is the trans.. I've just been fighting it since June..

I really think that's where 99% of the problem is, though, ISX.. I'd bet big money that the trans is eating up the mileage.. If I get to a funding point where I can 5 speed this truck, and the mileage doesn't change drastically, I'd definitely head your way for a long weekend trip..

Rancher, thanks for clarifying. I was quite confused, and my initial read of it was that it was lashing out to someone here, to which I was about to go all 'moderator' on it, "online".. :)I am at the point where I just say "eff it" on my 3500's fuel economy. It doesn't seem to matter if it's empty, loaded, city, or highway, or any variation of the above... 12.5-12.8mpg is where it lives. My '96 12V was a different animal, however.. 17+ CTY, 25-28 HWY. And it made a ton of power (IMO).I just really hate this 3500, unfortunately. I mean, I love having one, but this one, in particular, just drives me nuts as the P.O. was a clueless ball-bag.

I suppose I missed this episode..

In the gasser world, the 60lb/min turbo is rule-of-thumbed to support 600hp. My 550AWHP Subaru 2.5L pushed a 70lb/min Garrett GT-R turbo at only 22psi. Engine was built for well over 30psi, but I didn't have the fuel for it.. Besides, it was a daily driver and got 27mpg (Pro-Formance was an old auto performance company of mine, back a few years ago)

LMFAO!!!!

It's worth it if you've got the air for it.. I had it on my 2001 but used it once. Stock hx35 and injectors, it took about a split second to slap 1000+*F EGTs on the hx.. and very smoky (again, not enough air...)

I've been on it. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Ok, so I took the saw out today to cut some firewood.. I do love the 1-2 pulls and it starts! however, it needs (at least) a chain, maybe a bar. It cuts curved. I made sure I wasn't applying pressure to cause it. Chain is sharp. Properly? Questionable (it was on the saw when I bought it a couple weeks ago.) Chips are chunks about 1/4-1/2" in length. I didn't notice any rocking of the chain. One thing I noticed was that sometimes it would cut really good, then all of a sudden, stop cutting through, almost like the teeth were super dull, then it would take off again. I made sure I wasn't hitting anything. The rakes are too tall. I went to Tractor Supply and looked for a new chain/bar combo but there was not one for it. This Husky 61 has a 20" bat on it.. HT-388-72. This is a 3/8" chain, that apparently calls for a 7/32" file. I bout a Husky 7/32" file set, with a guide for proper angle, as well as flat file for the rakers.. I cannot figure this thing out to save my ___.. What it's got on it: [*]20", 3/8" Pitch, .058" Gauge, 72 DL [*]Husqvarna # HT-388-72 or 608-000047 [*]Comparable Oregon # 208RNDD009 [*]Solid Bar with replaceable sprocket tip (single rivet design) [*]H48 chain sharpens with a 7/32" round file or 3/16" grinding wheel.Pitch 3/8" (.375") Gauge .058" (1.5mm) I can't figure this sharpener out, nor can I figure out the rake gauge.. The instructions on the packaging at total crap. I guess I'll have to learn/practice the art of hand-filing, "free-style" LOL

I made sure I wasn't applying pressure to cause it. Chain is sharp. Properly? Questionable (it was on the saw when I bought it a couple weeks ago.) Chips are chunks about 1/4-1/2" in length. I didn't notice any rocking of the chain. I'll actually put this info over in my 'saw' thread, so not to hijack this one any more than I've already done..

Here's my dilemma... Curvy no? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I'm down to 3 pcs of hickory. I'm heading out to cut this morning. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I have a POS heat pump.. It does 2 things well:1. runs up electric bill :spend:2. keeps the house cool in the winter

I miss running the JD 8440 (8wd) and 8640.Also the JD 425 Cuber, and the MF-850 Combine, Case 4690, JD 7720-T Combine, Hesston Bailers, Allen hyd. rakes, etc.. We had 6500ac Alfalfa farm. (a little over 10 sections.)

that last pic looks like an apparition.

I'm not gonna get on the ford bash-wagon, because I've got friends with them that are having no issues. Then I've got friends that do have issues. My boss has an 05 350 DRW that he call his "thousand dollar truck" because every time he has to get something done, it's $1000.

looks like a nuclear explosion! :)I've been rehashing the replacement of my wood stove insert (which greatly reduces my options, due to size) as I'm considering getting a more efficient unit. I think mine is about 15 yrs old or more, and not really designed to do what I want it to do.

99% of the GPS devices will calculate the elevation into the speed and distance traveled, giving you an accurate distance traveled.

I thought about moving mine to there, but I've got a trans cooler mounted to that driver's side bumper support rod..

Nice! Where you from?

LOL @ 'upgrade'. Well, it sorta is .

I wore a set of Federal Couragia MT 235-85/16s out in just over a year, or about 25-30K mi. Of course, they were MTs, and 95% of their life was on tarmac, and about 70% of that was with 9000 lb. in tow.

LOL! Hippie said 'coolant fooler'.

The purpose is this: same pump, same direction, same everything. filling it until it kicks off on it's own gives you the most accurate 'constant' for calculating MPG. If you tend to fill it beyond that point, then that 'constant' now becomes a 'variable'. You can easily add another gallon by 'topping it off', which will skew the mileage accuracy. I always put my 2 stroke oil in just before I refuel, anyway; this allows the incoming fuel to mix with the 2 stroke well. Another issue with completely filling your tank is that you leave no room for expansion/contraction of the tank and its contents. I've experienced completely filling the tank during the day, just before getting home, and getting up after a cold morning to find a little fuel had pushed out onto the ground due to the tank contracting.