Rogan

same here.. BTW, I used the Advance Auto Parts ball joint press. Note: It does not come with the correct angled cups for the dodge, but they will "get the job done"...

watch your fuelly mpg's climb!

That's the one! G-Pop is where I got mine, and I couldn't remember the business name...

OOOHHHH..... my bad..Sorry, I've never had that apart..

I'm confused as to what "T" you're referring to in the fuel return line...I don't recall having a "T" in my 2001's return line. Mine was just a banjo bolt with two washers (one on each side of the fitting)

That's quite odd. I experienced the exact opposite when converting one of my PCs to Linux..

That would require a rebalance of the shaft and wheel as well as possible machining to the compressor housing From the Galaxy S3

I spot that stuff a mile away

Mason is correct.I have two switches (because my truck's PCM wiring is hodge-podged)One is for OD, one is for TCC.My trans shifts kinda funny, anyway.. Meaning, that from a stop, an easy take-off, it will shift under 5mph, then almost immediately do the 2-3 shift, if the lever is in D.so I mostly manually shift my auto to control the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Same goes for the OD shift (toggle). I rarely use the OD in town, but I do use the TCC in 3rd all the time.It will not downshift, but I'll manually pull it into 2nd in decel to a stop, at which time (if the TCC is switched on) it will unlock the TC once I move the lever.If I'm getting onto the interstate from a start, I'll manually go to 1. Manually do the 1-2 shift around 16-1700rpm, then repeat that for the manual 2-3 shift (usually around 30mph). I'll flip on the OD switch around 40-45, then flip on the TCC around 50 or so. Sometimes sooner to keep the trans from doing any 'slippage'. I can tell you that my method keeps my trans temps usually in the 150-160 range (empty) and the 160-175*F range (towing). It was a little cumbersome to do at first, but now, a week in, it's almost 2nd nature..I want an EB, but that's just not in the budget right now.

that's awesome!

I'll be right there... well, not sure "which" 2pm you're referring to, anyway LOLI'm on the right coast time.

$85 (HY35/HX35/HX40) http://www.gillettdiesel.com/hx3540turbochargerrebuildkit.aspx

It's definitely possible. And Linux will run on a 2GHz/1GB box a hundred times easier than Windblows would.Sharing to Windows clients is still easy, and usually is a walk-through when setting up the sharing.

yes, my '01 had a sock filter in the tank..

It's a month or so old, and shipping would be at most, $5 or so..

endplay is ok, depending how much and in which direction. If you can grab the impeller with your fingers, and wiggle it side to side a little bit, that's normal (provided it isn't contacting the compressor housing).In/out play is another ball game, however.. bottom line is, it's fairly easy to rebuild these things :)As it is also fairly inexpensive.

yeah, even idling in gear, warm, mine sits around 680rpm

again, worked like a champ this morning! Thanks

The manual trucks have an HX35W. The auto trucks have a smaller, less efficient HY35. The J-Hook is used to hold the wastegate closed, period.

I actually cussed out loud when I read Mike's post LOL Anyone wanna buy a slightly used Scan Gauge 2? ;)

That's weird.. I'm (currently) on my (work) Windows 7 laptop and haven't experienced any issues this evening..

Hi Will.It could be very possible that your turbo seals are leaking it past. You can check your turbo inlet, easily. Look for any signs of oil or residue. It should be (obviously) clean and dry. The exhaust-side of the turbine is a bit harder to check, as well as hard to determine. Is there ANY shaft play in the turbocharger?I understand your blow-by is minimal, but it could be a ring sealing issue, as well..

I agree with all that. But I prefer a SAF over a revolver. Maybe one day I will own a revolver, but for now, I love my S&W 4566 TSWFrom the Galaxy S3

What's going on here?? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4464&d=1346691372