dripley

This is locking I am talking about. Does yours do this? Still can't believe mine lifted on and off as easy as they did after 17.5 years.

I bought 8' of air brake hose and connected it to the manifold fitting on the drivers side. Then thru the fire wall straight to the selector. That part is mostly fixxed I still have some air at the floor in all settings. The floor setting is much stronger alone, with a little bypassing to the defrost. Set it on floor/defrost amd the defrost gets stronger. Used to have seepage at the defrost in those settings but now the floor instead. I have had that seepage seems like since new. Never gave it much thought. Sounds like I got some more chasing to do, but that is a bigger job than I am tackling right now.

I feel your pain. Too many choices. I always seem to pick the crappy stuff.

Took the whole home made line with me.

Well I managed to cobble together enough old and new pieces to get vacuum to switch and it works. But now to find the right size new stuff to fix it right. Finding vacuum stuff of the shelf arond here sucks. Too many different sizes.

My thinking is it ru s straight to the connector at the throttle then to the selector. If thars the case then I am going to run a new line from drivers side thru the firewall and to the selector if all else fails.

Seems that one would hard to crush since buried in all the wiring along the cowl. I had to dig mine out of it. Back when I rebuilt my HVAC box the line coming thru the fire wall had gotten brittle and I had to replace a piece of it. Maybe it has cracked further down the line into fire wall. Hmmmm.

I have vacuum at the 90 that turns to the fire wall on the passanger side. So some where between there and the selector I am loosing the vacuum. Really dont remeber how that line runs on the hvac box. I will have to check the connector near the throttle that @IBMobile mentions above. Not one of the more fun connectors to get to.

Ought to slip right right in, mine did. Put some anti sieze on there so they come out easy if you have to mess witth them again.

Figured I would next weekend. I will . have about 1000 miles on it. I never saw any mention of re torquing the head bolts like you do the studs. I have to take it that it is not necessary.

they all seem to be worth what anybody will pay for them these days.

Got too dark for pictures. Were you able to get them to lock for removal? Sure made install a breeze put them both on with the hood all the way up. No having to position them to get the arms all the way up. Pretty sure it would work with the hood down too.

Thats where they turn me off. I have no desire for that.

That little releae in the picture is also a lock for the pivot and will hold the wiper arm about 3 or 4 inches above the wind shield. No need to raise the arm all the way up to remove them. I can get a couple more puctures in a bit. Owned my truck for over 17 years snd just learned this 2 days ago.

I went the buildi g supply and picked up the closest thing I can find to the remnants that were left in there. There is more than one kind in it. Matched it the best I could. Did not have to mess with the fire wall. You will also need some sealing foam on the evaporator and the heater core as I remeber. Bought that at the building supply also. There is a fitting on the outside of the box that goes thru the fire wall for the condesate drain. It will get knocked when you remove the box. If you dont put it back on all the condesation will leak into the floor board. If you loose it dont worry you can replace it with anything that will fit on there from the same building supply. I have a piece of clear vynil tube on mIne.

We have not a mail man out our way in a long time.

As the title says all my heat and ac are going to defrost. My vacuum lines are all connected and I have vacuum at the pump, at the 90 on the fire wall and at the 90 that turns into the firewall to the hvac. I do not have vacuum at the switch. I cannot seem to find a pin out, for lack of a better term, for the connection to the controls. I am assuming the black tube is the one supplying vacuum to the controls. Not sure that matters since I can feel no vacuum at any point on the connector. I am seriously thing of capping the line at the passenger side firewall and just bringing a new one thru the driverside straight to the connector. Does any one know if that supply line connects anywhere else before it goes to the controls? Or does any one have a map of the HVAC vacuum lines?

Everything has been fine since the the valve bridge was fixed. Went on 275 mile trip up the mountain to Ashville NC. Found a coolant leak where the heater return pipe goes into the block. Think the 17.5 year old 2.5" long heater hose finally gave out. Gave the coolant system a really good flush and refill along with a fresh oil change. All is running hot straight and normal. I hope I thanked everyone for their input. I value all the help greatly. So a big thanks to all of you.

I used different color on mine a long time ago, dont remember what kind and the darn thing was leaking in less than week. So I bought some gray wondering if it was better. I put bead on there and stuck the cover up there and realized the bolts were out of reach. Had to let go of the cover to get them and when I looked back the cover had not moved. Thats some sticky s#&t.

Mine came sealed silacone IIRC. My intake was sealed with a gasket, not paper, no sure what it's made. Went back on the same way. Also a new tappet cover gasket installed dry on clean surfaces. Put a Felpro on it 6 years or so ago and it was leaking a smidgen. Easy to do with the head off.

You get clean and dry for the sealant to stick. We use a lot silicone in resteraunts and I try to get sll the caulking done prior to the cleaning crew. Moisture gets in corners then someone caulks it and the next day I can grab it a pull the whole bead out. That aint nothing. By the way, am I the only one that seals his diff covers with silicone?

Did you have to assemble the lights from empty housings?

My wife's 06 Dakota had clear lenses and halogen bulbs with a little cap over them. They put excellent light and had sort of cut off line to them also. I see them like that on the interweb just like that for our trucks. How a like they are I dont know. I am going to get some one day and see how they work. Might take brighter bulb than ours and I dont remember what wattage hers were. I have seen pairs of them for about a hundred bucks, bulbs included I believe. Rock Auto has several as do A1 auto and others I'm sure.

I believe @Mopar1973Man's were prebuilt at about the $700 mark. So yes they come prebuilt but are too pricey for me.

If you look on the wiper where it attaches to the shaft there is a little tab that sticks out. It releases the wiper from the shaft but also if you pull it far enough with the wiper lifted a few inches off the glass it will lock in that position and make removal easy. I just found that out doing my head gasket install. I did not realize that until I went to put them back on. You have to have lifted when pulling the tab out for it to lock. I did them with the hood open, not sure if there is enough room wth it closed.