dripley

Good to hear you found your problem. Hope you are drying up alright out there.

Take the snorkel off and pressurize it from there. That sounds like what you are doing. You will not loose any air thru the waste gate. You are pressurizing the intake side. As long as whatever your using to pressurize things is sealed to the turbo good sounds like you have a hefty leak or lots of smaller ones. I would be suspect of anything you took off when installing the VP and the turbo.

How much difference between the auto and manual trans? Does the auto not get the speedo signal from the trans?

Boost leak like you say. I would go back and check all your connections and boots. Be sure everything is tight and nothing is torn. Probably would not hurt to put some air pressure on it, you can find any leaks easily. I would also get a fuel pressure gauge. My in tank pump caused me lots of heartache. They are notorious for low pressure and that can take out your new VP. Welcome to the forum by they way.

Glad you got her fixed. I can be frustrating at times.

I dont believe he will run out of rocks.

You will like them. Do you have the switch to operate the mirrors and the one for the heaters?

14 PSI is where the overflow is fully open. Some fuel constantly flows thru for cooling. That is my understanding. Someone correct if I am wrong.

They might be direct bolt on but the wiring would not be present for the signals and light, I would not think. The harness is there for the power and heated portion.

You should have seen the wires in the new wheel bearings. If there were no wires then you got non ABS wheel bearings. Hence the light.

HO's only came in the 6 speeds.

When you set the cruise on fly by wire the pedal want stay down because it is not connected to a solenoid pulling on the throttle. Another way is if you can monitor you apps sensor it will show 0% while cruising with it set.

IIRC the instructions with mine were in chinese. So I installed it, turned the idle screw until the idle started moving up then backed it off about 3/4 turn or so.

The cheap one I bought worked just could not make the P0222 code go away.

I had never heard that Penzoil Synchromesh was the same as the Mopar fluid. Not that I know different just never heard that one before. As I remember the owners manual does state that you do not need to change the fluid just keep it full. After checking mine for 4 or 5 years with no depletion I got lax and paid a price for it and lost 4th gear. Just got stuck in it and would not come out. Finally got it out and made it home. Not sure how much of that was the oils fault, but it did get low for a while. Any way the Sychromesh is all I have used since.

I agree with both of the above. A gauge is absolutely necessary. I run an AD in mine with filters and still run mine thru the oe filter canister. I like having the water in fuel sensor and fuel heater FWIW. It can be installed with or without the use of the oe canister. If you use the canister you need to put a big line kit on it from Vulcan Performance to open up the restrictive banjo fittings that come from the factory. The water/fuel separator on the filter block is a prefilter for the pump. I have been happy with the electric pump others are happy with the mechanical. You cant go wrong either way. But definitely get a FP guage.

Welcome to the forum.

I run Penzoil Synchromesh and have for many years.

When you say greased up do you mean with your needle greaser of did this upgrade come with zerks to grease it? You can try tightening up the nut on top of the steering box and see how that works, but it is my understanding the if you have to turn it very far that is when you have to make the other adjustment that I know nothing about. I turned mine about 1/4 turn when I had about 1 1/2" of play of center both directions and it helped greatly.

you dont have to adjust anything. Yours is fine where it is. What you get pressure wise on that bump is insignificant.

The ECM controls that little bump. Cant answer as to why it would doing it facing uphill and not down hill. I hear mine every time I turn the key no matter what attitude my truck is in. I usually see about 5 or 6 psi, but if you open the needle valve you will see more. It is relative to how restricted the flow to the gauge is.

There is an adjustment screw on top of the steering box that can be tightened up. I have tightened mine once only 1/4 turn and it made a good difference. There is more to it than that if you have to make a large adjustment. I will have to defer to someone more knowledgeable than I to explain how. I stand corrected on the tire size. I saw a 17 in a photo but it turns out it was not one of your pictures.

I adjusted mine until they started to grab then backed them off a couple clicks until you just barely heard them touch the drum. They were all new parts and as they wore in I should have adjusted them again. Got to easy for the engine to overcome them and they just got weaker due to operator error. Going to try and readjust them this weekend. I have got to get the new release handle on. Sucks pulling on the rod.

Good luck. I did mine a while back but my cables were working fine so I did not replace. I do however need to adjust them again. Broke my release handle the other day and now all I have to figure out is how pop the little rod out of the the release under the dash. Sure is hard to get my big hands in there.

I have a steering brace on mine now for 160 maybe 175k miles. Still have the oe steering box with no leaks. I noticed in your pictures BBD that you have 17" wheels and that helps with you clearance on the steering set up almost as much as 0 offset wheels.