dripley

It is circled in red on Cowboys post. I see it on my phone also. But it does say Click to choose files. I am not great with the computer either but that one has always worked for me.

Looking good there Bill.

Do you see the choose files on the left side? It is underlined on on the opposite side from insert other media. Click it and you should be able to upload from your computer. Thats how I do it. Guess I was a little slow on that.

I have not had to take mine thru any mud that deep but have gone thru about 8" snow on a near 10% slope and never lost traction, climbed like it was not there.Drove around in the mud on the job but nothing that deep. Red mud does suck, but if you put enough water into the dirt. all mud sucks. These Coopers seem to thrive on it. Best all round tire I have used on my rig. 5

I would open the valve a little more and see if the pressure stabilizes a little. If your draw straw is in the tank and not the basket you might be seeing a little air being sucked in with a low tank due to fuel slosh. I have seen that on a couple of Mike's videos of his truck. Kind of hard to say though. As far as the pump cycling on and off while driving, I would think not. The ECM tells the pump to run until key off or no idle, it should run continuously.

I noticed the$134 and knew that could not be for E's. Dug a little deeper and founds the E's for what I thought was $176 but it could have been $172 like you say. I am running 265 75 16"s

Well here is what i just found on the subject. At least for the AT3's.https://tiresize.com/tires/Cooper/Discoverer-AT3.htm I also found this on the ATP's, not nearly as informative. Actually very lacking of info.https://tiresize.com/tires/Cooper/Discoverer-ATP.htm

Just before posting my question I went on the Discount Tire direct site and priced the 16" ATP/AT3 and they were $206 apiece for load range E. I go to the link you posted and they were $176 for the E rated.

I knew the sidewalls would be shorter and thought that would be more stable for towing down the highway which would probably suit me. I assumed the tread depth would be the same but did not have them pull on e down to look. That would be something I would have to check out before making a swap to the 18's. But like RS I am curious as to why they would shorten the tread depth. The 18's have the same mileage warranty as the 16's. The biggest thing that kept me in the 16's was the cost of the tires for the larger wheels.

What are ya'll paying for the AT3/ATP in your area? Discount tire quoted me $987.20 for 16's and $1106.80 for 18's. This was for the ATP's.

I have been doing some searching and have found some 18" Dodge take offs for decent prices. The thing that bugs me is the tires are about $30 apiece more than the 16". That just pisses me off. I quit buying Michelin's when the crossed $1000 a set and now they are near $1300 a set. The ATP's are now up to $1000 a set. This was at Discount Tire. The local guy I used to buy my tires from told me about 3 months ago he could put into a set of AT3's for $800. Might have to take that to Discount tire and see if they would match it or just buy from my old tire man. I swapped from the local guy due to being on the road so much. Easier to get service when I have a problem.

Volt meter is low also. That could be part of the problem. How did you check the codes? Fuel filter good?

To be leak free is good. I was for a while but not any more. Need a few days off to plug them.

I guess I should have read that a little better. This only happens in cold weather and not hot weather?

Is this something new? The reason I ask is if I shower down on mine in 5th or 6th at 1400 rpm, it is not going anywhere quick until the turbo spools near 17 or 1800 rpm. Then it's off to the races. It is not as noticeable in the lower gears since they spin up much easier but it has always been present in mine. Possibly just turbo lag.

Sure am learning a lot on this thread. I have never paid a lot of attention when in lower gears while towing because I am very seldom in that situation. Since I saw a lower temp in 5th versus 6th I thought that would continue down thru the gears, to a point anyway. Unless I get stuck in traffic, 1st, 2nd and 3rd just get me moving. 4th will get me thru most any town that I might happen to go thru. Most of the places I am going to are not to far off the beaten path. If not near and interstate I am near a good secondary road. Next trip I will have to pay a little better attention. My recollection is of the temps going lower even in 4th but by that time I moving in traffic and paying more attention to what going on outside the cab than inside the cab.

I might get a wild hair one day and swap my probe to the other cooler with the port up high and see what happens.

Get a good head wind and you would swear the anchor was out too. I guess the only reason I questioned Mike's probe location was that is was only getting splashed. Thought the probe really needed to be immersed in the fluid to be accurate. But now that I think of it the I believe that my gauge came with a bracket to mount it onto a trans fluid line, IIRC.

While I question the location too. The biggest difference between Mike and I is that I out weigh him 2 to 1 and my trailer is 12'-8" tall. That will load up your tranny pretty good.

There is no pressure sensor and when you shut the truck off the pressures bleeds off very quickly. When you park nose up it just magnifies a small leak since your fuel tank is now way below the rest of your fuel system. When you are level and especially nose down now you are getting more level and in the case of nose down the tank is above everything. It is just means mean ole mr. gravity at work pulling your fuel to the tank As far as it not priming while nose down, i dont have a clue. Mine primes no matter what position I am in.

There is one thing I might have done different. The fass coolers come tapped in one corner so I put one up on one side and one down on the other. I think I would have taken one of them and put another tap on it myself and had the fill hole and the temp sensor on the the drivers side. Might not have made much difference because the fill hole is in a crappy place either side I believe. I dont have any numbers before I put the coolers on to compare and see what difference they did make. Thats the only reason I would want to wrap or put a heat shield on the exhaust just to see what difference it does make. Just hate to spend the time and money to find out it only drops the temps by a couple few degrees. If it dropped ten or more might be worth. Speaking of the temps, what would be to high of temp to see? I did a little research and never found any thing on the Syncromesh that told me how hot was to hot for the fluid. Does Amsoil publish a temp that is a line not to cross?

I have the coolers on my 6 speed. I am running Penzoil synchromesh. I filled it to the filler and then parked on slope and stuck one more quart in. Not sure what the total was. I do no regular changes due to the owners manual just said to keep it full. I lost 4th gear out of my oe trans. I still have it and dont know what happened. Not even going to attempt to take that beast apart. Bought one from a junkyard with supposedly 52k on it out of an 02. I have put about 125k on it since and this is the one I put the coolers on. I changed the fluid in it about 35k ago when I pulled it to replace a failed throw out bearing. The fluid was alittle darker than new and was pretty darn clean. I also installed a temp gauge with the probe in the fass cooler. It is on the exhaust side so not sure how much that is affecting the temp. Normal cruising empty on the interstate I stay in the 155* to 160* range depending on how hilly it is, around 80* ambient temp. When it gets up in the 90's I'll see maybe 170 to 75. All of this with the comp set on 5X3 Pulling the trailer,15k# fifth wheel, I see up around 200*. That is running 65mph in 6th gear, comp on 2X3. I have towed in 6th the whole time I have owned the vehicle. On a hot day I have seen the temps hit right at 220* and if the road gets hilly enough I will drop into 5th and run about 60. That will get back down around 205*. I have considered wrapping the exhaust pipe or putting some form of heat shield to see what difference it would make but that is in the future. Also i have only been running the temp gauge for about a year and I have not been logging any data on it. This is my recollection of what I have been seeing on it.

Not sure which bathroom to use after seeing that.

will be doing mine in the near future.

Think back to the days of negatives in photography. If you flip the negative over thats what you get . Look at all the writing on the valve cover it is all backwards. Caution on the fan is backwards. It is just a mirror image of the real picture.