dripley

My first 5th wheel was a 28 foot Dutchman, 2 slides. Never had much trouble out of it and the slides worked fine. Just not biolt to live likemwe used it. Traded it on 05 Cardinal with triple slides. No problem out of those either. The exterior doors for the crawlspace and propane tanks were junk.

My engagement has not changed just the disengagement. Having to push it hard to the floor sometimes to get it into gear wher I used to not have to. Hopefully there is a little air trapped that will work it self out like it did the first time. I lost the OE MC 2+ years before the OE clutch went. The slave outlasted the clutch. I did only replace the MC as the slave was done a year or so ago. Figured it was worth a try. Much easier than pulling the tranny. That might be next though. We will give this a little time.

Mine regilar one turned to crap. The bath and galley fans were nice and still are. They rain sensors, timers and such. Nice extras. No problem with them.

Well I have seen the off set ball joints just never anything good about them. And the EMF ball joints at over 500 bucks is a bit steep to experiment for me. My current ones cost less than $200 and still going. Mine will drive with one hand or wrist on a decent road but as long as younarw paying attention. I do have some play I figure ftom the steering box that has 510k on it. I have run out of sdjustments on it and it us about time to replace it. Now the T steering I will most likely try when the MOOG parts start wearing out. Dont let my nay saying stop you from your quest, I wish you the best a hope you can show us a new and economical 'way to accomplish this.

I know about the high spot. Saw it the first time l did the replacement. Imwas able to get the connection to the MC above that high spot and connect the MC back to the line without loosing any fluid like I did the first time. While i agree there could still be some air in there the results were much better this time than last. There does not appear there is any difference in how the clutch is working now than before the change. I will mess with it some more tomorrow. My slave has a bleeder screw might just push a bunch of fluid thru it. The first time I did it the air had to work its way out the resevoir. Kind if thought the trap below the MC had something to do with it. It had no where to go down low.

Still trying to figure out how to adjust the camber. That is without buying the weird off set ball joints l have heard so many bad things about. Please enlighten me.

If its set up the same as in my truck and your skidder I would pull the injector tubes and check the orings on them. If the injectors have never been changed it could be them too or the tubes themselves. Typically we see out sequence injector change or bad orings on the tubes causing leaks. And sometimes the tubes.

This reminds of a thread l did while back, sleeping a bucket l believe it was. Parked the 5th wheel late one night and it started raining lightly. I was awoken to a drip in the bed. Its like 2am or so and l was going to fix it whatever it was. Go up on the roof and the whole vent top was gone. Blew off on the trip. Threw plastic up there and curled up around a bucket. Stayed dry that night. Replaced all of them the next day.

The orings on the tubes could be bad or the tubes them selves. Have you done an injector replacement lately?

Been having some trouble shifting gears lately. Leave out in the mornings and shifts fair to good. Get some heat in every thing and l have mash the pedal into the floor pretty good to shift. I replaced the oe master cylinder back 2008 but it was leaking by and creeping on me and then failed all together. That one was fun since l couldn't find any way to bleed it and didn't know any better. Did the best I could but still had some air in it. It took about 3 weeks of driving and a lot clutch pumping but finally settled out and has been working fine until a 3 or 4 months ago when this started. I had a replacement here and today would be good to swap it in. So googled a little bit to see if any one had better way. Low and behold the first video l look at is @Mopar1973Man swapping his out long ago. He swapped both master and slave and removed the whole system and bled by using the slave. I did not want to go that far. So l was able to get the MC out far enough to keep the line to the slave about level and near as l can tell lost no fluid from it. I tried put fluid the new one on the resevoir side and it would not take any. I was succesful in getting into the output side but slowly. Kept adding a little at a time until bubbles quit coming out. I was able to keep the MC inverted and connect it to the line with hopefully no air in the line. It is working about the same as before. On the funnier side when l removed the upper bolt and was pulling the socket and extensions l lost the nut. I spent 15 minutes sticking mt hands in any space they would fit looking for said nut. Nothing. While installing the new MC i had shine light in there and low and behold it was stuck between to pieces of sheet metal above the bolt. First time l ever lost a piece of hardware the defied gravity. Anyway figured l would go for a test spin. Looked at the cluster and the CEL is on. Check the code, p0237. Lost another MAP sensor. Damn. This is under warranty though. Thats 3 in the last 4 years. I am not pulling tranny till it to goes to shop for new synchros and such. Hope tomsend it to Super Stick in Texas for a refresh. Dont know anyone around who knows the 5600. No odd noise from anywhere in the tranny just getting harder to shift after warms up. Could be the pilot bearing I guess. Any thoughts are welcome.

Ahhhh, No.

I was going to look on the phone since I use a laptop or tablet mostly. Got a new phone and cant remember my password to sign in on the new phone. Hopfully someone will see this and help.

You could put it anywhere between vents if wanted. IIRC thats why mine is where it is. The gauges are still easy to read. I put this in right after install a new dash pad and could not bring myself to drill a hole in it. I do like the way they look mounted forward as in @AH64ID's set up. This particular one has the gauges angled slightly towards the drivers side. Just to add this is in a 2nd gen in case it matters.

I am 6-4 also and have the dash mount and love it to. Here it is from my view point.

TCW3 two stroke oil is very good additive. 1oz to the gallon. l use use super tech from W M. Other brands will work just as well.

Look at the bottom of the reply box. On the left you can choose a picture from computer or another device like SD card or camera connected to your computer just click on the choose files. On the right you can post pictures from previous attachments or URL. Click the insert other media for that. There are other ways but I dont know them. A picture is going to help alot. There is a lot of wire under the dash.

That is interesting. I have a 3 gauge pod on my dash that I would like to have up high like that. 4 would be better.

Might not be the pump. If you turn the key off you kill power to everything and the pump should not run. Maybe a problem with wiring? Turbo timer on the Quad? Might want to disconnect it and see if it might be the quad. No codes makes the problem a bit of crap shoot. I wouldn't want to throw an $1100 pump at it without some more trouble shooting.

Did you check for trouble codes?

I did mine back in April of last year. Re used the head bolts since they were still in spec per the Cummins bolt gauge. I went thru 3 torque sequences per the Cummins instructuons. 2 to a set ft pounds, dont remeber the numbers now. And the 3rd sequence was to turn all of them 90* more. Did it with 24" breaker bar. That last 28 turns of 90* more was a job. 35k miles later and its still holding fine.

I have no doubt they can fail. Just seems I see folks swapping them just because. It does not hurt anything. Me I use anything as long as it will last and these tubes still seal fine and I have had no issues with them. The 2 I bought many years ago are still in the boxes they came in. Though they might be in the truck and 2 oe ones might be in the boxes. I know I tried them and really dont remember which ones ended up in the box. Pretty sure I put them in on my injector install and had a couple leaks I could not stop. When put them in I tightened the hold downs then the lines. I had to go back and loosen the hold downs and lines then tighten the lines before the hold downs and leaks stopped. That was a valuable lesson day.

My RV275's lope a little when I turn ac onm for few seconds anyway. Nothing oversized on my truck. Before installing these unkown injectors all was good. After installing you have issues. Makes the injectors or the install suspect.

If itmatarted with the injector install they would be very suspect. There is truth in what @Tractorman says about the larger injectors.affecting idle. They can cause a lope also. Something a bit odd to me is the idle. Mine has idled at 800 rpm since I drove it off the lot in 2001. But I would defer to those smarter than me also. They will be along.

I have 510k on mine and will keep using until one causes a problem. I have heard that the early 24v had not as robust a tube as the late models but l have no experience with them.

I never thought there would be enough room for the tube to move out of the way with the nuts on. Apparently there is. Live and learn. I have alwyas popped them out so I could put a new orings on and look at it. The one time I reused the orings sure enough I had a couple leaks that required removal. One of them was #6. Swore to never let that happen again.