dripley

Anything can wear out, I get that. Just seems i here folks swapping the tubes on injector changes a fair amount. Mine look like the did the firs time I took. Bought a couple back then thinking they needed changed. Still have them in boxes they came in. I am curious of how you changed injectors without pulling the tubes. I agree they are important. As hard as the steel is in them they ought to out last any steel they touch. I know mine have. I remeber someone describing the filtration requirements of the CR engines made the VP truck filters look like colanders. They are definutely a different animal.

Andy got Goober to help at the court house when Wally and Goober had a falling out. One guy kept pestering Goober about his car. Andy would not let Goober leave the court house while he was in Raleigh so Goober took the car apart and re assembled it in the court house. Darn funny episode. Just saw it last week for umpteenth time. I grew up on this show.

Good to know.

Mine cross over tubes are original with 510k miles on them, 4 injector changes, a couple of removals for other purposes and I would not hesitate to use then again. The steel they are made from is the hardest steel you will find in the engine. My first injector change I chucked them in a drill and spun them and used a scotch brite pad to clean and polish the mating surfaces. The chuck did not leave a mark on them. I have no idea why every one seems to think they need changed regularly. If you want to fine and cant fault the idea. But I dont see the need. My personal opinion guys but 0 issues out my oe tubes. The orings are a different story. I would use an old one in a pinch knowing It most likely will need to changed later. New one are much better. I should add that I have heard the earlier year 24v tubes were not as resilient as the later year but I have no experience with them.

So that means @JAG1 could ban say like chickens if he was of a mind to? Might have to an eye him.

Very good to hear Steve.

When I did my HVAC box and dash pad I only took it loose on the passenger side and hung it on the grab handle. Mike has an article on that in the articles section. So I cant help you on the fuse box since I did not take mine all the way out.

I would have to agree with both of the above.

The only time I ever smelled my clutch was backing my 5th wheel up a driveway it did not belong in.

I would like to have the 5 speed for daily driving and the 6 speed for towing. But you cant. My 96 had the 5 speed and it always tickled how often on the I would pull it out of 5th then remember 5th was all I had. Then when I got 6 speed I figured that was over. Wrong, cant say how many times I have gone for 7th on the highway. Pretty cured of it now after almost 19 years. I am glad they did not bring up 4:10's when I bought it. Probably would have done it just from the towing aspect. But would not be happy DD'ing.

My 5th wheel weighs in at 15k plus 8k for the truck left me with 23k total. Even in 6th i coul pull it on 2% grade witn the comp on level 2 or 3. Empty at that speed and the with the Comp on level 5 she was plenty quick enough for me. This on 3:55's.

I remeber that one.

@Mopar1973Man I respect the hell out you. You and the members here have helped me thru many issues over the past eleven years. I dont dispute the technical info on the 245's at all. So I say this with all due respect, we dont all want the 245 tires. I am very happy with the 265's and if I ever do step up to the quad the 265's are coming with me. I like turning 2000 rpm at 70, always have always will. The Comp gives me darn good power at that speed. With the versatility of the Quad good results should obtainable. Lord knows if I make the step, I will need a lot of help. Love ya, mean it, The Chickenator

Pull the intake off of the turbo and check for shaft play. In and out is ok to point. Up and down is not good. If the MAP sensor is failing it could be sending bad info on pressure cutting fuel. Boost leaks can do the same thing. The only way to test for that is pressurize the system. A boost leak that big should be easily identified. If nothing is obvious spray soapy water on all of the joints. With the codes you have posted it could be electronic. You have one those issues that could be simple but you have to find it. Also spin the compressor blades with your finger, engine off for sure, it should spin freely.

With boost levels around 10 psi it is going to be a dog. If thats all the ECM is seeing for boost it is cutting fuel back, hence the power loss.

If you did jot see p done twice you only read 1 computer. An 02 will read both and some 01's. We have a list of all trouble codes in the Articles section under 24v 2nd gen, then engine, and the trouble codes are there. There maybe more. Was the truck running fine prior to installing the boost gauge. It would also be a good idea to get a scanner on there and clear the codes then drive and see what if any come back. Some ofmthem could be old. From quick look at what you posted it may a wirring or computer issue which would put it above my paygrade. But if the codes are old you could be chasing your tail.

Are the others lifted and on 35" tires? Are the gear ratios the same? Different injectors, tuners? They all make difference. 22 mpg is darn good mileage. I have only seen that mileage a couple times on mine. Mine will normally seem19 to 19.5 on the interstate, maybe 14 around town with a good bit of stop go. Of course mine is a 2nd gen and I might be comparing apples to oranges.

Check for trouble codes and post them up.

Have you re calibrated the truck for the over sized tires? Those and the 3 inch lift dont help mileage.

Could be an alternator or pcm problem. All the more reason someone electrically smarter than me needs to jump in. They will be along. It would be good if you started your own thread on the isuue. You will get better coverage that way.

How old are batteries? They should be close,to the same with the key off. Voltage out put is way out of whack. But we need someone more versed than me for better advice.

Well that sucks. My vacuum line to the hvac controller failed about a year back. I ran new line off the manifold on the firewall straight thru the dash on drivers side to the controller and it works fine. All functions work but l do always have some air blowing on my feet. That could from the hvac rebuild l did while replacing my dash. Never paid floor any attention except when l had it on floor. I do know my feet are happy the way things are. I will say if you have the dash out see if that black does run across the hvac box to the controller. I always believed there has to be reason for running it across the fire wall other than just to bring it back to almost where it originates.

The 02 engine and computers uses a switch and not a sensor. It is a one wire switch and not a 3 wire sensor. Once the engines reaches around 6 psi it closes the switch and the ecm takes over and displays oil pressure base on coolant temp, rpm. It does a very good job of mimicking oil pressure. Did the repalcement wiring harness have a three wire connecctor? Mine has a one wire as does the spare harness I have. This a suttle difference between the 01 and 02. Just another reason why years can be tricky.

Solder the ends. I know some dont agree with that but I have yet to have any problems with mine from the ground mod or making new battery cables. If you do want to crimp them thats fine too. But you will use them again and will spread that part of the cost out a bit.

I would try the 02 manuals and see what happens. Either of them have cruise control? I dont know what programming the smarty will do for cruise control. Not up on that at all. I had the same issue as you many years ago. I went the rebuild route and it was not much fun. The first one did not work and the second all but the cruise. The light staid on when whenever the key was on but the cruise did not work. I year later when it failed I bought a new one and the cruise has worked ever since.