dripley

@dieselautopower. I would be interested in that my self beings I am turbo illiterate also.

I would agree with the above unless you have an open diff. Sounds like you dont.

Well said Mr Guy. This thing is very real and expanding again. As far masks go, l would agree they help everyone but wearer. I don mine when entering places that require them, but not outside. Still quite a few folks that dont. I have yet to see a grocery store with a bouncer to enforce the rules. A vaccine is what we need and there seems to be good progress with that at the moment but time will tell.

If you did any damage it should be minimal. How much damage is any ones guess. What suze fuel lines do have from the the tank to the VP? 8 psi drop is quite large. I run the same as you on .5 inch lines with only a 4 psi drop. I keep my pressure above 14 psi at all times.

I got the hay fever so bad right now it feels like I have feathers shoved up my nose.

It is time for some sort of change. While doing some research on the senate it would seem that up unril 1912 senators were elected by the individual stae legislators and not a popular vote. The 17th amendment to the constituton changed that to the people electing their senators. This happened due to corruptness that had seeped into the electoral process. Some more are due for sure.

The ground splice that @Me78569 is talking about is in the engine wiring harness a footor so away from the ECM connector. My finger is on it

The fluted lenses are going to blind everyone. They are not in the least suited for LED's.

My batteries were maybe 6 months old. Prior to the mod they they would get a touch moist on top, he old ones any way. I never really paid it much attention until l noticed the new ones were staying dry and still are. Just seems as pre mod they were overcharging a bit and post mod not. No electrical gremlins since either. If extra negative is helping, l don't know. But l think l will leave it, can't hurt anything.

I did add a 4 gauge wire from negative to negative much later. I was not experiencing anything bad before doing it. Everything was working just fine. And absolutely no difference after adding it. The charging system was working better after the mod and before adding the extra ground and still does after adding it. I dont think I gained anything but it did not hurt anything that I know of.

If things are disconnected and you turn the key on it will set codes for what ever is loose. Did you have the batteries disconnected while doing the head gasket? I would also add that I am electrically challenged myself and depend on other members to lend when needed.

I was able to get this pattern out of led's and a set of clear lenses. I think I got lucky on the combo because others seem to have the light more scattered than mine.

If you look in the articles section, 2nd gen 24v, engine, obd error codes there is a complete list of the codes and diagnostics. The 1689 is no comunication between the ECM and VP44. I went thru this same scenario a couple times and both times it was a failed MAP sensor, but I only had the 237 code and not the others you have. I could build abour 3 psi of boost that showed on my mechanical gauge while my scan gauge 2 showed 0 reading from the map sensor. Is there chance that the key got turned while some the connectors were disconnected. I would clear the codes and drive the truck and see what comes back.

I found a lot pros and cons on both ways when l did mine. Found the same with using welding cable vs battery cable too. I did use marine grade adhesive shrink wrap on the connections and had everything to solder them with on hand so thats the route I went. I gues time will tell.

Same here. Much to young to be gone.

I soldered all my connections also. Replaced all the cables at the same time. I just bought 2/0 cable and soldered all the lugs.It s been just over 2 years since and all holding up well. Did all of this while doing WT's ground mod. I used military style terminals to connect everything to and used no coating on the connections. To this day everything is clean and no corrosion.

You are welcome sir.

No! By hub I mean the bearing. The steeting knuckle stays on. Just remove the hub bearing and the drive shaft will come thru the knuckle.

I replaced both front u joints sversl years ago and IIRC the joints will not come thru the hubs. I was in doing the front brakes when l discovered a bad one and just did them both while l was in there. As long put anti seize on the hubs they should come right out, mine always removed easy except the first time. As far as the seals l have never done one. From reading here l believe you can get to one of them with gears in place but not the other. Which one l dont remember.

It is as much as changing your hub bearings. If yours have never been changed then that adds a hole new layer of fun.

If you have not done WT's ground mod, the charge wire would go to the terminal that is missing a wire on the PDC in your 1st picture. That is the factory set up.. That all changes when you do the ground mod. I am assuming you have not done the ground mod by WT as of yet. Where do you have the charge wire landed now?

While I am in the cooler I only accept deposits. No withdrawals are allowed.

I have used super glue in the past. Never had one fall off.

Now thats not good. I always considered the cooler as an essential tool box for a lot of repairs.

Well @That Guy, looks like it gets the job done.