dripley

How tall is the single block? Mine is 2 blocks and measures at 4 5/8" tall. We have seen several different spring set ups on these trucks. Mine has the camper package on it hence the upper overload spring. My frontnhas no spacer but there is something in there between the spring and the pocket I believe to isolate metal to metal contact

The hot wire test is for eliminating the pump as the problem due to electronics. It takes all control away from the apps and the ECM. If it cranks and idles the pump is fine. This my understanding any way. I am not sure there is a test for a mechanical failure other than signs it may be failing. My last pump lasted me 257k miles. This was on an AD elctric pump with good fuel pressure its entire life. It did suffer thru 2 pump failures and not sure far I drove it after the faileures but it did 25k to 30k miles more after the last one failed. @Bullet is doing well with his original. Mine let go at 75k back when the fuel was alot different than todays variety. I tested my pressure at 100k miles while adding a Banks system to mine. At that time I idled at 10 psi and that was still at Bosh's minimum for fuel pressure. Bosch's requirements are lower than what a lot us run. This was on the oe lift pump. It lasted alot longer than the OE VP. @Rotax3006 I have to assume your out warranty due to age and not miles. Also I cant condem your VP but it is acting like mine did before failing. 2 more things, get a proper lift pump. If plan to remain stock you can go less than a new full blown system. And 2 check into that life time warranty pump real good. See if they tell you anything about it, like the rebuilder, new or used computer. If they cant, runaway. Even though it has a lifetime warranty they are no fun to replace at inopportune times either.

I give up what is that?

Sounds pretty close.

This is the stock 2500 rear blocks, 02 any way. Dont remember the height of the block but can measure later if need be.

My truck was experiencing the same thing about September of last year. Hard starts with everything seemingly fine. Thought was an air leak in the fuel lines except it would do it right after shut down on occasion. Finally in November the VP died with a 216 code. It popped up up about 2 days before it failed. What you describe is almost identical to what mine did. But I dont want condem your VP since it is so new. If its failing like mine it is not the computer but mechanical. Mine also had 257k miles on it. I bought my new one from DAP. One year warranty with new a new computer. IIRC he does have rebuilts with old ones but they are labeled as such and a bit cheaper. His are Industrial Injection also.

I made the half million mark but dont I will live long enough to get the one million mark. Congrats @Blueox01 that is impressive.

I run my AD in conjunction with the stock filter also. If go this route you will need to get a big line kit formberween the filter and the VP. The oe banjo fittings are quite restrictive. On the truck running after lift pump failure, my oe went out and shut the truck down. It would not fire off. When original AD pump and with the second AD pump failed it was not noticeable while driving. I dont know how long I drove it either time with a failed pump. Out of necessity I had to drive the truck during failures until a replacement arrived and I could install it. While I babied it you could tell no difference in how the motor ran. I was however not babying the the truck until I noticed 0 fuel pressure. About year after Dodge installed an in tank pump on my truck I started havis dead pedal issues. Took to a local shop and the only they found low fuel pressure. 5psi at idle and near 0 at WOT. I installed a booster pump on the frame rails that brought the pressure up and the isuue was gone for a long time. I also dont know how much it brought it up because I had no FP gauge. Just did not know much about it then.

If you are just hooking a test up forma short test then it is most likely the lift pump as @Mopar1973Man is saying. The gauge I blew was the one mounted in the cab. That pressure reading has nothing to do with the VP. Unless you feed it that way until it dies.

If it is connected right at the VP with no snubber and or a needle valve to protect either it could the gauge. I beat my first mechanical gauge to death that way.

Are checking the fuel system relay? That powers the vp. Have you tried swapping relays, say the horn relay as long horn works.

How many cab bolts did you loosen to raise it enough to clear?

Let us know how it works.

I have had 2 AD pump failures. Thru both failures the truck still drove and the VP pulled fuel thru the AD. I can's see why the pump could not be left in the system. If the VP can pull the mechanical pump should not even know it's there. Just my thinking any way.

That is pretty low mileage for a HG failure but who knows for sure. Mine started weeping around 430k. Just a wet spot. About the time I found the time to do it I saw a drop of coolant finally hit the ground. That was around 470k. We have seen some other failures up in the in the 300's. I dont think I would pull it but thats me.

I believe that you could use that relay and it seems to me there should be a way to wire in the oe pigtail thru the add a fuse tap on the hot wire but I am not sure of where to land the ground wire. I would also add that someone more electrically incline would know better than I. Maybe we can get @IBMobile to help with that. I know enough to be dangerous. In the mean you could complete the install just to get it done and do the rest later. It would be the same to wire later as it is now. As far as which fuse to use, any key on hot should work. If it is constant hot the pump will not shut off.

So does mine. Different brand but it should adjust in far enough to see the truck.

How many miles on the engine?

The one bolt you mention is normal. I have heard of folks cutting a hole in cowl to allow install. I believe @Mopar1973Man raised the the cab a little for his to drop. As far as the water goes I dont remember seeing any in mine when I did the HG on mine and it was leaking on the front right cormer. The other odd thing is it just appears to be water and no coolant. Is it possible for water to condensate in the holes?

Is there a step in your instructions for you to plug into the oe pigtail that controlled the oe pump. I seem to see the connector in the picture of the harness. One for the new pump, female, and one to be plugged into the oe pigtail, male. I just dont see a step telling you to plug into the oe harness. Ok after some rereading of the thread and the install instructions it appears what Fass is having you do is use the add a fuse tap to provide the trigger for the relay in the harness. This will get the load off of the ECM but it means that your pump will run continuously while the key is on. Using the oe pigtail leaves the lift pump still under ECM control. It will work that way but I prefer to have the ECM in control of the pump.

I just looked at the Fass install instructions. Does the wiring harness that came with yours not already have a relay installed in it?

Bad or loose connection in the relay socket maybe? What happens if you push on it firmly?

Absolutely, the whole purpose of the relay is to get the load of the pump off of the ECM. Dodge even did this when they replaced the oe block mounted pumps with in tank pumps.

They do have the Mopar ones but you have search for the part #. Not sure why that is.

Goog luck with it.