dripley

I would look over the fuel system from one end to other and see if you leak some where too. A leak will let air into the fuel system and can cause partial loss of prime and cause hard starts. Watch your fp gauge the next time it hard starts and see what pressure your getting. It should bounce alot but stay in the 7 to 12 psi range. I would definitely do some more trouble shooting before throwing an $1100 part at it and hope it works. Just so you know there are only a few re builders of the VP44 and many, many sellers as NAPA is just one seller. How much does NAPA get for one?

We have a list of trouble codes in the articles section under 2nd gen 24v. Sorry but I cant link it. Just lookup the code and will have diagnostics for trouble shooting. I would think since the truck has sat so much the wastegate or actuator might just be stiff from sitting and holding closed to long. The stock should open around 18 to 20 psi. If the ECM sees 20+ psi to long it will set the code. If any part of linkage is stiff it might not be opening in time to stop that. You could oil the linkage and put some compressed air to it to work open some and see if that helps. The turbo is capable of well over the 20 psi to set the code. I would also take heed of what @CUMMINSDIESELPWR recomends. The stock fuel systems are not very robust for these trucks. What system to add depends on what you have in mind to do with the truck. And install a fuel pressure gauge. It is the safest way to know that your fuel system is operating properly. The crankcase vent on the front of block will puke oil out on the radiator and clog it. There is an article about that very mod. The list can go on and on. It is all dependant on what you want to do with the truck. It sounds like a gem to work with. Do you mind telling us what you paid for it? Just asking.

They keep me going for sure. I have tackled some pretty big projects thanks to the help here.

They should be. I ran my first set for near a 150k and bought them from Vulcan too. Nice upgrade.

Do you know the original owner?

Injectors might be getting old too. Dont know how old yours are but starting with the Timbo is a good way to go. A good investment.

Look in the articles section, 2nd gen, 24v, engine, obdll error codes and its there. I would link it but this tablet wont let me for some reason. A timbo is good to have if your OE has bit the dust. It is even good to have if yours has not kicked the bucket..

I put my AD on my truck about 9 or so years ago. Both returns go to the basket right where the pick up is. Almost 300k miles later there is no difference in how the truck runs. Plumbed like this my pressure stays fairly steady with the way you drive. 19 to 20 idle, about 16 or 17 cruising, and 15 at WOT. I dont think the return location has anything to do with that. At least compared to my truck.

Tell me about it. Never ceases to amaze me how many things make people think of chickens. Aaahh ha haaaaaaaa!!! I made a vacuum vesel out of an old garden sprayer. Used to drain the diff fluid. Should work on brakes just as well. I turned the vacuum pump on and the fluid was moving. Then about 30 seconds the vacuum on the vesel made it emplode. Might as well thrown an M80 under the truck. Wow!!

I always thought there was something a bit amiss with ya. Breeding your brakes are ya. Hmmmmmm

The bad tranny comes from the Diesel trucks. The tranny was only good enough hold stock power and then if towing with it it would strain them. I use to see folks in a RV park complain about that while pulling 15k to 20k pound trailer.The stock tranny just could not do it. As far as the 1500's I think they are as good as any and any of them can be made better. As Dodge vs Ford vs chevy and the like, they all have there quirks but if taken of there no reason not to get longevity out of any of them.

Can you give us a bit more info on the truck such as any modifications that have done to it, like tuners or injectors or such? ,The 234 code could be quite simple with some more info. As far as fluids, I would change them all. Start fresh with everything.

Get a scanner and check for codes. The cel light you had most likely stored a code. I have had dead pedal issues due to fuel pressure and wiring and it can come from the VP also. Never had from a dead stop, all of my instances have been while moving. It has never been the TPS on mine that caused dead pedal. Food for thought, you can buy that VP for about 1100 bucks and it is only about 4 or 5 hour job. Some here can do it quicker. It is not as difficult a job as some shops paint it to be.

I got pretty good at pouring straight into 1 quart gear oil bottles. Then super tech went to the wide mouth gallon jug. Not as easy now.

I lost my original ECM back in 2010. The trip thru an ECM rebuild l made was a journey l would not wish on anyone.

I would agree with the above. You have the fuel all the way to one injector just need to get it to rest. That a wiring harness back on.

We had a memeber here that towed large boats up and down the east coast who put 1.3 million miles on his 2nd gen with proper care and maintenance. Those last 4 words are the key. Age can take its toll also.

While in Kentucky 2 weeks ago diesel was $2 and regular was $1.95. Here at home diesel is $2.29 and regular is about $2. I have not seen any diesel cheaper than gas yet. I am also seeing less and less stickers on pumps for bio diesel. Wish they to label them with less than 5%. .

While l am not 3rd guy, posting the codes would be help to the members that do know the 3rd gens.

While l have a 6 speed and like it it's going pricey rebuild it. $2500 to $3000 and that's if there are no hard parts to replace. There are also crappy parts out there since the manufacture, New Venture, quit aking parts for them when Dodge stopped using them. Just something to think about if swaping.

I am still holding a seat for ya at the welcome back bar and grill. 510k and counting. To the op I would not let mileage be a deal breake but I would look it over closely and as mentioned earlier put a good scanner on it and see its trying to tell something. Folks are right proud on the prices they ask for these trucks and not all not worthy of said price. It also helps if somewhat handy with a wrench. Things do wear out. Some info on the truck would help any of us help you on an opinion.

The few overflows that I have seen have the small bypass hole. So fuel should always get by. What quantity gets by I dont know.

I guess that would depend on the route the fuel takes thru the VP.. Does it all pass thru the area of the computer for cooling and then to the injection pump and then return the excess fuel to the tank? Or does it go to the injection pump and then get returned by the computer on its way to the tank.? I dont know enough about how fuel routes thru the pump my self.

It would drop the tank and see what those screens look like. If its the oe fuel basket that could the be issue. It would be a not so difficult thing to check. I would even consider taking those screen out and just put an inline filter before the lift pump that is easily changeable. The filter was speaking of was the one on the engine block.

The lift pump does operate during starting as long as it the oe pigtail is used for activating the pump or a relay. The ECM turns the power on and off quickly to lower the fuel pressure. I have seen mine on a long start issue and the gauge is bouncing a lot in the 7 to 12 psi range. The engine will still start with no fuel pressure. Though when my oe lift died it would not start. I have had 2 pump failures with the AD I have on it now and both times the truck would start and I drove out necessity, I never knew when the pumps actually failed. I just looked at the gauge and saw at O psi. I have no Idea how far I drove with 0 PSI. I dont recommend driving with no lift pump, I did not have a choice at the time.