dripley

I have 253k and still going strong, but you never know. I kinda wish I would have replaced mine when i did the pump, but I did not even know what it was then. I guess I wont sweat it. They seem to last a long time, but you just dont know how long.

Jamman, that is on heck of a job you have tackled there. Much more involved on the assembly side that mine. You have gotten alot of good advice and taken it beyond in most cases. You really ought get those dust sheilds on. Did you ever try to find the small inner ones? I am running one shy and never could find one seperately. Anyway you are looking pretty darn good so far.

I have 3.55 gears and turn 2k at 70. I weigh in around 7.5k and have been getting 19mpg after the rv275 install. This on 265 75r 16;s on the interstate. towing weighing about 23k I get 10.

Welcome from NC.

No synthetics here. Rotella since new.

good luck jas, you got it off. Getting on is just the reverse. Watch that key way. Crushed or dropped in the gears is a rel heartbreaker.

Jamman, the small dust sheilds you are speaking of above, let me know if you can find them seperately. One of mine got destroyed when fixing my second one and the only way i could find on was from the dealer. You had to buy another part with it(cant remember what it was now)and it was quite pricey. so I am running without one and dont like that. It kind of leaves the insideof that bearing exposed. So if you find a source let me know.Sounds like you are progressing quite well. That hub and rotor assembly is quite differant than my 02. No pounding out studs, the rotor just slips off. The rest was not that easy. Good luck

Guys, I have no problemwith this nor do i feel pushed out of the thread. It does seem that the 99 has some diofferances from my 02 and I dont want to give any bad info. This can be a tough enough job with good info due to the rust sticking the parts together. I'll throw my in there if I need to. I know how frustrated I was when i first tackled the job. It took me several days. I never knew how hard you could beat on one these things. --- Update to the previous post... I like to know how that stuff is to work with.Got some rust on my rv that needs to be dealt with. Any luck with the drilling?

Jamman, this has nothing to do with anyones intellegence. Mine especially. The first one i did I was dumb as rock. The second one at least I knew what I was up against. I just missed the part where you left the nut on, but seeing the instructions you have, I would have probably done the same thing. Your seal is probably ok, I was a little rough on mine and it still does not leak a year later. Just be careful of dirt on the seal. It just appears to me the 99 has some differances from the 02 I am not aware of, but they share some similarities also. The only thing the instuctions you have leave out is the part about rust and things seemingly welded together and they just dont pop apart. The rust I see in the pictures might compicate things more along those lines.hex0rz has a 99 and I would think be more familiar with the disassembly. I will keep watching the thread and offer any assistance I can. Like i said earlier you are in a straight forward bolt off bolt on part of the truck. The rust and age just make it a pita to get apart.As far as the seal go, I think they have to be replaced from the inside of the diff. I dont know for sure never replaced mine.

I guess I will politely back out of this one. In the first post you stated that the castle nuts came off quite easily i did not see the part you stated about not taking them off completely. On the 02 when the castle nut is removed the rotor just slips off, no need to mess with then studs. After I removed the rotor the puller came in very handy. There was no tapping the bolts holding the nub assembly on mine, It took a puller and a 5# hammer to get mine out. So I will respectfully defer to some one who owns a 99 and can spell.:tease:Good luck with the repair and let us know how it goes.

The one thing I am seeing differant from my 02 and yours is the brake rotor. Mine is separate and just comes off of the hub bearing assembly. If yours is like mine that should have just slipped off.

Pretty sure that is the size i used on mine and they come it handy for other things as well. Got mine from nothern tool. I dont like beating on the end of anything that has threads on it because i usually hit it wrong and booger up the threads. If your are lucky it will push it out, but soak it down with pentrating oil and get some heat on it. Aplumbers torch will work but accetalene is better. I did not have access to accetalene though and had to use the plumbers torch. A Haynes Manual or similar has pretty good details. pdftown.com(think I got that right) might have a FSM to download for your year model, there might even be one here to down load, not sure.Like herox said you can do alot of pounding, just dont pound parts you want to keep. I dont think I would want to hit the front axle and drive it back into the diff. Not sure what you could hurt, I am just a little leary off it.

I believe ther are 2 bolts on the back side to remove the braket for the calipers. I dont see it still mounted in your pictures though.I have to agree with RJC on 2 things. Man it is rusty under there. Might as well clean it up while you are in there. I have some surface rust on mine, but not that bad. The second thing is words of wisdom from "THE GREAT POTATO IN THE SKY". I like that.:lmao:Jamman dont get discouraged. You happen to be working on a fairly simple but heavy duty area.it is all bolt off and bolt on stuff. Rust and parts stiking together like they are welded is common and just make the job a real pita. I dont know how long I spent doing my first one. but it made the second one much easier. Invest in some anti sieze compound for reassembly in case you have to go in there again. As far as a gear puller get as big of one as you can afford or the auto parts store will loan you. Plenty of pentrating oil to spray the parts with will help to.

What kind of Apps did you install. Timbo, auto parts brand, or factory replacement?this ought to be in the 2 gen forum and not the 911 support forum.

I dont think my 02 has that braket. As I remember it just had 4 mounting bolts. thats was 1.5 years ago though and the memory isnt always that good. I take your are going to take to them and have them test it? sure appears they have the right test bench, or at least a picture of one.

We drill alot of holes in stainless building restaraunts. Most of it only 16 or 18 gauge. I watch guys burn up bits spinning them fast. Slow rpm, like ISX says, and alot of pressure and i can drill alot of holes with a bit and use it again later. I know you are not dealing with SS but it is worth a shot.

I never gave mine much thought either. Just took them loose like you. I still have the oe hoses on mine. I have had the upper one off a few times and they still look good. the ends are not brittle and are still intact. No soft spots i can feel. I probably should replace them and will, but not right away. I know, beware what you cannot see.

You need to get a good size gear puller and pull the hub of of the axle. Hopefully it want be to difficult. that just depends on how stuck the axle is in the hub. I dont know how much more differant my 02 is than your 99, but i took my axles out when I did the same job and did not screw up the seals. I would think you just need to go ahead and pull the axle out all the way and put it on a bench to pull the hubs off of the axle. I know you are on a tight budget, but if you can replace the u joints while you have it apart it could save you some heartache later.

Plenty of famous people have gone out the same way. plenty of not famouus people have done the same. There are plenty of others the have made they way thru it and plenty, plenty more that have handled it well. I dont think I would have handled the fame and the money at 20 years old very well. I might very well have gone just like her. I'll never know. I would have liked a shot at it though. I got stoned a plenty in my younger days, tired of it and moved on. Still like my beer and cigs though. When I die i know some folks that will say "if he just took better care of himself". I aint gonna sweat it. Hypocrit? maybe maybe not. In bad taste, could be. I, like you enjoy my time here learning, chatting and BSing. But most of all I like the way we can have differant opinions and accept them for what they are. After all that is part of what has made this site and country great. I do respect your opinion.

Good job, Mike. Welcome home.

His price is in line. sounds like he is putting the right stuff on it. Maybe he knows something you have not tried. What is the name of the company?

Here are the ones that Mike has found. Recognize any of the names?http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders I dont know if you can just buy the machine, but who knows? If this guy is cerified Mike can add the name. What kind of price is he asking or did you go that far?

If I am correct you do not have the spring and ball. The adjustable regulater has a spring and plunger. You adjust your pressure with the screw on the regulator and not by swapping springs like the AD 100 and 150. Just loosen the jam nut and adjust the screw until you achieve the pressure you are looking for. Thats how my ADII works and I would think the Raptor would be the same since it has a regulator.

I used Moog in mine. I guess only time will tell if it was a smart choice or any better than the cheapies that Mike bought. They are still holding up well after 20k.

I agree on the no garage. I have to work on mine in the gravel driveway. The winter time is no fun if you have to crawl under there. I am not sure what else to tell you that could be wrong. I do know this if you have to get a pump it is not hard to install. You can do it in less than a day. It took me and my son about 4.5 hours from start to having the engine running again. An extra pair of hands is nice, but not absolutely neccessary. Mike has a good write up on it and so does Blue Chip. They are both there for the down load, you dont have to buy chips pump to get the instructions. I used Chips and had no problems.