dripley

It seems the posts I have read about the AD that it comes with the low pressure spring installed. From what i have read everyone seems to be swapping springs to increas the pressure. You could call the vendor you bought it from or AD and ask to be safe. My ADII has a regulator so I dont have to mess with springs.

I was able to leave the wood alone but when the screamin beaver came out I could hold back any longer. It still makes me laugh whenever i think about it.

You did say that when you released your brake there was a delay in the cable releasing. If the lube does not help the cables appear to to be pretty cheap to replace. Either way problem solved. New cables=longer solution.

It is a nice 4 wheeler and looks well equiped also.

Geez that thing is big. Since we dont see any wolves out this way I just never new that got that big.

Would that be similar to what you see on the magnet in the pan of an auto tranny?

Most of the SS screws I buy come from Lowe's and I have never paid any attention to there grading. WE ussually use them to attach misc items in the kitchen wher structural concerns do not exist.

Aint that cute. It looks like a baby cummins with that wood on it. How come it aint got no screamin beaver on it too? Love ya, mean it.Dave

Thanks for helping me fill in the blanks.

They might be planning an invasion to smoke us out>

I have also seen this in SS screws we use in retaraunt equipment. the heads tend to strip more easily. I am sure this has to do with the hardnes of the metal. You can buy differant grades of stainless just like differant grades of steel bolts. Bolts are marked on the head as to grade, but I cannot cypher it with out some form of document to tell me what the markings mean. I have seen them before but do not pocess one. Structural stell bolts are marked in this manner, but I very seldom have to deal with it with the buildings i construct. I have never seen these markings on the small SS steel screw we use, but they must be soft considering how many i can strip.

The truck does not have to have the codes erased after a repair to run right. If you have repaired the problem the truck recognizes it is fixed and runs like normal. They will go away on there own after 40 warm up cycles I believe or you can just erase them with your scanner. I think it is best to erase them so the next you might have a problem there wont be any old codes hanging around to confuse you. Thats why alot of folks will recomend clearing your codes, drive the truck and then check them again, as long as your truck will drive. Sometimes that is not possble however.

There seems to be 2 schools of thought here and I am by no means an expert on rear ends. It seems to me with any new metal parts wearing together you are going to see some wear that would generate some metal particles that would be small in nature like W&F is describing. I dont know if the clutches in the limited slip would contribute to the shavings. Do they wear similar to an auto tranny's clutches.On the other hand if you are seeing chunks of metal or large particles i could see that being of concern. So maybe someone has some pics to get an idea of what is normal and what is abnormal. I agree with removing the diff cover and see whats inside. So nkruse while you are in there take some pics and show everybody what you find. You can help give us all an education.

Maybe a wrecking yard.

:lmao2:so true.

All I need to do now is get up that way. Sure would be better than going further west. I guess I will take the pay check where ever it takes me.

Vulcan performance. Got it with the bhaf.

I was wondering about that myself. I was also wonderting if the clutches in the limited slip would generate anything.

I have got the outer ware. They are pretty pricey. I think I spent near $30 for it. Had aliitle more cash then though.

Does the Smarty auto load the high idle or is there something yo have to do to install it? I guess I will now have to come and visit you RJC. I'll trade the hight idle for something you need done to your truck. Now if only I can get job near you.

I bought a set from someone over on CF. They cost 30 bucks i think. Made out of lexan. But you can make them out of most anything and make a template from cardboard like Russ did for a whole lot less. I still had to buy some hardware to instll them with.

Mine just lays in there, but i do like the braket idea. simple but very functional.

Just look on top of the rear diff and its right there. it is a little awkward to get to, but not as bad as a lot of other things.

Looks like a rat rod limo.

It would be good to read the codes, but it sounds like a speed sensore issue. probably the rear sensor since it tis messing with your speedo. It is located on top of the rear diff. You might just try cleaning the connections and see if that works, If not, it is easy to replace.