dripley

what kind of mpg are you seeing with it?

I got mine at Rock Auto for less than $100.

Alright got home this weekend to stop my fuel leaks. they just kept getting worse. All the injectors were leaking and the return lines also. I took every thing apart today. I cleaned both ends of the injector lines with a scotch brite. there was a little crud on 1/2 of them. I took the return lines off the back of the head and off of the vp cleaned all them and reinstalled. When did the tee I installed new orings. Picked them up at a cummins dealer and there were 6 of them. 3 that fit over the lines and 3 that fit in the tee. When i took it apart the oe only had 3 on the lines and none in the tee. Do any of yall have the orings in the tee?The banjo on the back of the head was not very tight so I removed it and put new sealing washers on it and tightened it back up.Now tomorrow I will takle the injectors. I going to do something differant that Mike said had worked for someone else with the same issue as me. I am going take out the connector tubes, unbolt the injectors, reinstall the connector tubes, torque the lines to the head, and then retorque the injectors. That is backwards from how I did it originally. Does any one have any thoughts? I sure dont want do this a third time.One more question. Does any one know what size socket it takes to remove the MAP sensor? figured I would clean it while I am in there. Did the IAT and it was black as coal, figure the MAP is probably the same.

Well I chickened out and did not buy one. Just went to Auto Zone and let them read it. Camshaft sensor was bad. It was a little bit of a pain, but i just kept thinking at least it was in a much better place than mine. Still going to buy a scanner, maybe I will luck and find one on sale. Thanks.

Another convert. You will like it, which ever you choose,

If it will quit raning I could get you a picture while I am under the hood tomorrow. Managed to fis the wifes truck before the rain set in.

Welcome from the states. I cant help with your problem but some one else here might be able to. It looks like you will be busy for a while.

I replaced mine with a moog about 17k or18k miles ago and it is hoding up fine so far.

I have used Wall Mart fuel before in a few places with no issue. I do not remember seeing any bio fuel stickers on there pumps. These were in NC and Tenn. Ther must not be much bio mix sent here.

It sounds interesting but I think I would have to more about it before running it thru my engine.

sounds to me you would be fine with what came stock on your truck and not what you could get away with. just my opinion.

Take a volt meter and check the wires after you bump the starter and find the hot wire and your question is answered. I dont have a wiring diagram but it would be easy to figure out.

Thanks guys, I was looking for one I could buy tonight. I had forgotten the prices on the scan gauge and the ultra gauge. Scan gauge is not that much more. Ultra gauge is almost to cheap to believe. I have decided to hopefully rent on from the auto part store. That is not going well right now. Will try again tomorrow. How does the ultra compare to the scan gaugeII, if anyone knows?

The wifes truck is acting up and the cel is tripped. I have been putting off buying one for a while so nows the time. Money is a little tight so I am trying to stay below $150. These are to i looked up and am considering. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EQU1/3040.oap?ck=Search_N0664_-1_1636&pt=N0664&ppt=C0103 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Actron-OBD-II-Autoscanner-plus-tool-for-1996-and-newer-vehicles-bilingual/_/N-25iq?itemIdentifier=897608&_requestid=39561 I am open to ideas.

I would think if you still have stock lines and the stock pump location that it would struggle to keep up the pressure. Do you know where your fuel pressure stands now?

mine is no where as loose as mikes.but when it engages it is very obvious. but just 98 i aint sticking anything in there. cluck cluck says the ckicken.

Welcome to the site. What other additives are you speaking of?

http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=597. hows that work? that what i tried to do last night. just try this one lets go to ebay. --- Update to the previous post... The first link i did to adifferant site and it worked this time. Mikey showed me that one. The ebay thing worked jsut like you said ISX. Shoot i might bet the hang of this one day. I do reserve the right to a refresher course in case my feeble mind farts. Thanks guys.

Thats what it turned out to be. I replaced the hub bearing assembley a little while back. That fixed the problem. The whole thing was very much like our truck but on a smaller scale. No 5# hammer needed. A pulller did the job easily.

A question I would ask, is the fass DDRP up to the task of 100hp infectors? Are you monitoring your fuel pressue at all. I dont know what the DDRP is capable of feeding fuel flow wise.

I think mine came with 27's. I just put a pair in a couple weeks ago and thats what was in there. they fit just fine.

Codes and fuel pressure are a big help as stated. The vp has its own computer located on the top of the pump, the ecm is located on the block behind the fuel filter canster. the ecm can cost more than the vp.

I was trying to post a link and it did not work. Thats pretty obvious I believe. I will have to ask the master how again. he made it sound so easy.

I might be wrong but i believe the Raptor comes with a wirng harness and relay. My AD did. I connected right to the supply on the back of the alternator and grounded to the braket. You would get the same power if you cnnect to the battery or the PDC like some do. Wether the other relay would work or not i dont know.

lets seehttp://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/462447-bleeding-problem-2.html#post4769914 i know this has nothing to do with what is being discussed but if this works i have just posted my first link. My apoligies to all.