dripley

i am talking about the nuts that attache the injector lines to head at the crossover tubes. not the ones rattling around in my head:lmao:

i have seen those on several of the old fittings on the vp and the fuel canster buy never noticed any on the the nuts in the head.

good info. i appreciate it.

i went over to the rock auto site and the raybestos upper ball joint says that some up and down movement is normal but only if it is un installed or installed and the lower ball joint is disconnected. but it needs to be seated properly before install. so i am sticking with no movement is best when everything is together. i would think some tolarance in movement might be ok. mine do not move at all since replacing, i just did my wifes dakota with the same results.

when you say sealing washer, is that part of the nut or is it a sperate washer?

i did misunderstand how you did the test with the bucket. i thought you had disconnceted the intake to the ad and the supply to the vp and let the supply to the vp pump back into the tank. thats where i came up with the unresticted flow i was talking about. ithought you had that line just stuck in the tank free flowing. let us knowhow it goes. --- Update to the previous post... i did misunderstand how you did the test with the bucket. i thought you had disconnceted the intake to the ad and the supply to the vp and let the supply to the vp pump back into the tank. thats where i came up with the unresticted flow i was talking about. ithought you had that line just stuck in the tank free flowing.<BR> let us knowhow it goes.

did they charge you anything for all of this? i have been thinking about havig mine reflashed but io think i am going to wait and see how yours come out. wish all the luck.

took mine to a shop and they wanted $915 to do the ball joints tie rod ends tie rod most every thing and i remember. i just rebuilt the whole thing myself including the dampner. and there was a lot of cussing going on. i had to pound out the lower ball joints. it seems every one has trouble with that. i never took it any wher else to get a price. did this at 220k, should have been done sooner. steering is much better now,but still wants to wander some.

opening the injectors will get the fuel to the injectors alot quicker. i ran mine out of fuel the first time not long after i bought and could not get it started until i opened them. as far as letting the lp do the work, i think i bumped 6 or 8 times before i got fuel up to the injectors. i tried sarting twice for about 5 or 10 seconds before it caught on the third try. i dont know how much a better way it si to do that way. but it seems i would save some wear on the starter.

DAP is a sposor here and he makes good package on vp and ip together.

trouble codes and fuel pressure would help greatly. if you are saying it starts fine facing down hill ther is a good chance you are leaking air somewher. when min was doing it the injector lines wer leaking at the head and letting air in. i can be anywhere not just the return line.

i kept my oe canister for the fuel heater and the fws. not sure how that is better than not using its just how i wanted to do it. i think we are in the minority of people who use these types of pumps. any way that is a personal decision and i like it.just to make sure i got this right. you took the draw straw out of the tank connected to the fuel line and placed the ds into the budket of fuel. you took the line feeding the vp and place it back into the fuel tank so the fuel would have somewhere to go. if i am not right let me know.with just the open end of the hose going ito the tank you have no retriction on the end of it,ie the vp, and you can pump alot of fuel with no restiction at a lower pressure than you can with the vp on the other end. on my pump i am idleing at 20psi to the pump. my pump has the capacity of 165gph wich the vp does not need at idle and it returns some of that fuel thru the return line. i am alittle cloudy on this part.the AD also returns fuel to the tank thru its return. the air conaminated fuel and i believe exces fuel form the pump also. ther are some guy here that know how these pumps work better than me. i blieve ther should have been a diagram with your install instuctions that might wxplain that better tha i.as far as the ds picking up fuel ffom the basket. min differs from yours in the style of the basket and the return fuel. i have an intak fuel basket, my pickup is in there, but also the return from the engine and the return from the pump, so all of my return fuel is going straight in the basket to the pick up and i can suck my tank almost dry. that was part of the kit to replace the intank pump that came with the adII. seems to me there ought tobe a way to open your basket up and let more fuel in. does the engine return line feed into the basket like mine?i understand about buckson the truck. rebuilt the whole front end, 2 ecms, a vp,an AD, a nv 5600, and injectors. in the past 20 months. idrove for just over 8 years and not any problems just maintenance. apparently not quite often enogh. but i plan on driving this until i am sitting in a pile of debris, but the cummins and the fuel tank will still be there running like a scalded dog.

50 years is a pretty long time for me. at 58 most of my life:lol:.

thinking outloud, if you are still using the oe filoter basket and that filter clogs you would never know the pressure beyond that filter. say your gauge is reading 15 psi at the AD and the oe filter clogs you would still be reading good pressure but your fuel would just be returning to the tank and very little would be getting to the vp. it seems to me you would want to know what the pressure is after all of the filters.is your draw straw cut on an angle or have notches or something to where it wont suck down to the bottom of the tank?when you pumped the fuel from the bucket straight into the tank i dont think you would have much pressure beings the only thing you are pumping against is the fuel line. ther is nothing to build pressure against. it does sound like you have flow. like a fire hose, with the nozzle on the end you have alot of pressure and less flow(gpm), take the nozzle off and you have less pressure but increased flow. have you connected it back up to the truck to see what your gauge reads? when i put my big line kit in i installed the tapped 90 so i could put a test gauge on it if i needed to. not sure if i will have to reprime the system after openig since ther is no scharder valve in it now and it does dribble fuel when you uncap it. you caught me driving home from tenn. ill keep thinking and maybe some one else will chime in and help us.Dave

year and ho or so pump should be all you need.

the pressure comming out of the vp to the injectors is in the neighbor hood of 4000#psi so i would not think 20# on the lift pump would cause the weeping.

i dont know what every one recomends but it seems to me letting the lift pump do alot of the work gettting the fuel to the injectors is much better on the starter. i know in the past i have cranked and cranked on it to get the engine started. the lift pump is only running about half speed while cranking so it would take longer to get the fuel to the injectors. since the lift pump is running constantly while the engine is runnig it would seem to me that doing it this way would hardly add any additioonal stress on the pump. thats my thoughts.

i cant get rid or that first quote any way that kinda stuff doesnt bother my wife she just locks me out of the house and gives me the look:nono:. i am good at taking the tank off. had to do it twice when i installed mine. someone forgot to attach a clamp properly.

the only time i have taken mine off the lines were full of air so no siphon. but i will look out for that one. that could get messy and . if that happened to you tonight it sounds like the lines are not leaking any air and the problem is in or after the pump. there are two answers up there i buried one in your quote.

i would think if it is making noises like you say it is either sucking air or cavitating because a filter is clogged and not letting fuel in. when mine runs it only makes the noise of the pump running. i did run mine dry a couple weekends ago and had to refill the filters to get the prime back.it really did not make any odd noises then. since you slowly lost pressure i would lean toward a clogged filter. you could take the wfs off and shine a flash light up at the screen and see if it clogged. it just sounds like dirt slowly building up until it stops the flow.

if the overflow on the vp opens at 14#psi and your pressure is lower i would say your are not getting all of the cooling for the electronics thats possible. could mean shorter vp life. i think i am keeping mine at or above 15 for that reason.

if you did get the bottom of the barrel you might have pick up enough crap to clog the filters or maybe just the prescreen. i am assuming the 100 has two filters. there is a screen in the fitting that the wfs filter screws onto and it might be clogged. you have to take the fitting off to get to the screen. was the pump making unususal noise?

i will keep an eye on them and see what happens. as far as restarting i left 1,3, and 4 loose. I bumped my lift pump many times untill i saw a little fuel on the manifold and then tried to start it. i held the sarter for bout 5 seconds and if it did not hit at all i stopped and bumped the lift pump a couple more times. i started to hit the 3rd time of doing this. then i closed 3 and4 and hit the starter again and it fired. then itightened #1. and it smoothed out a ran just fine. in the past i would just crank on it hard until it started. i did not know then that the lift pump would push the fuel as foar as it does. when i installed my AD i for got to recconnect the vp electronics and spent 2 hours trying to figure out what was wrong:ahhh:. the ad was pumping fuel thru the injector lines and i thought i had a bad fuel leak at the rear of the engine. turned out to be the lift pump was pumping fuel that far:doh:. after messing around so long it came to me,CONNECT THE VP:doh::doh:. pugged it up and bingo it sarted right a way. since then i just let the lift pump do most of the work before trying to start. appreciate the info wh.

i am having a similar problem since installing my new injectors. when i test drove it i could get 30 to 32 punds of boost like always. but somewhere on the trip back to work i lost about 5 pounds and it does not seem to be fuel as hard. other than that everything else is pretty normal. the whole fuel system is praticaly new from the lift pump to the injectors. i did have this problem in the past before my ecm crapped out. but it went away with the new ecm. cant hlep but think i have a bad connction, ground, or something elctronic.

mine has always stopped very well even in emegency situations. cant say i would not mind havig bigger ones for towing bu i belive the ex brake has taken care of that. but borrowing from AH64ID thems some perdy parts.