dripley

i am looking at a set of instructions for install of a banks power pack tlc system. on page 7 is an exploded view of the wiring harness, high ram, turba and ect. if you look at the harnes coming out of the back of the ottomind the first wire has ring terminal on it. that is the ground i am talking about. it is on mine, though there is no referance to it in the instructions. in figure 15 ther is another ground shown for the gauges. i for got about that one and dont remember installing it on mine. but its probably there.[ATTACH]3239[/ATTACH] do these instructions look like what you have? 96397-24valve_dodge-v8-web.pdf

i dont want to dig thru all of the replies,but there is a second ground wire form the ottomind. is it connected? mine is grounded near wher i mounted it under the dash. i know when my main ground under the hood was broken the gauges still worked, and the system still functioned though my power was seriously off. i am thinking the second ground could be for the gauges or whatever. do the lights still work on the gauges? did you drive it and see if the power is back to normal? i am going to look at mine better this weekend and see what i have.please dont take any of the above wrong. i dont think you are doing anything wrong. but whatever is wrong is going to be something simple. good luck with Banks tomorrow.

you ought to like the 20. when you are laying under something and trying to pump a 3 ton it just aint easy. it will take a few more strokes but the differance in effort is fantastic. i bought mine at northern tool all made in china. hard to get around it.

my apoligies sir. your sig was there all along i was looking on the wrong page for it.

i finally broke down and bought a 12 ton awhile back. all though it doesnot lift as far with each pump it is much easier to use under any vehicle. it was half price when i bought it. i should have bought 2.

sorry to hear you are having problems. the only problem with the key trick onyour 2000 is it only read one of the computers. if you did not get 2 p dones when you checked them there are more in there. even in my 2002 the key trick does not always pull up all of the codes. the 1693 is telling you that you have codes in both the ecm and pcm. the 216 is not a good sign for the vp. since you just installed a new lp i take it the old one was an oe lp. another bad sign for the vp. the timbo apps might very well have solved your apps problem and the code might be invalid. you wont know until you clear the codes and see. if you dont have code reader many of the auto parts stores will read and clear them for you. some, for a deposit , will let you use them and return them for free. when the vp goes in these vehicles there is a good chance you will get little or no warning, they just crap out. mine did.i dont know anything about the tranny. someone else will chime in and help with that. in the mean time it does not hurt to check all of those grounds at least you cna eliminate that as a problem.also if you would fill out your signature so everyone knows what you are working with, it would be a grat help.

i am if you have had any luck yet.i just installed some new injectors and started having a problem with mine. low boost, egt's and power. it turned out the ground wire you spoke of earlier had broken. i reinstalled it and my problems went away. all of my gauges were working during this. there is another ground wire under the dash that i had forgotten was there. thought maybe that had something to do with your gauges not working.

are the batteries oem? you ever killed them, like leaving the lights on or ,my favorite, leaving the switch on all night long unti they are dead, dead, dead? mine are shot for the last reason and must be replaced soon. you could have a parasitc draw from something slowly bleeding them down. one of mine is slightly moist on top and you can actully read some curent off the top of the battery case.

fantastic place to learn anything. mike is one of a kind,just not sure what. and every one else all helping each othe rout you cant beat it.

when i installed my air dog and was trying to start the truck i forgot to connect the vp. i kept bumping the engine and runnig the lift pump and was able to get alot of fuel to the injectors i had open. so will bumping the lift pump not flush the openings?

well i think you made up for not posting for a while. that is a lot of work. good luck with it guys.

yes. look at post 15. that is the big line kit i installed from the filter cannister to the vp. a tapped push lock fitting and a needle valve. a few misc parts to connect the line ot the valve. it is working good for me. the plastic line i used is not so good and i am going to change it out for some differant tubing soon. bought the big line kit and needle valve at Vulcan performance.com. Eric is good people to deal with. the big line kit comes with a 90 to install on the pump and you can put it there instead of using the tee i used. the 90 has an outlet like the schrader valve that is stock on the truck. i plan to use that tap for a test gauge if needed in the future.

your edge probably has tap wire going to the vp. you are going to see it when you take the pump off. mine is tapped for the ottomind tuner i have. this allows the tuner to change the timing in the pump. somebody smarte than me will have to explain this further. and why you should not tap the pump at the fuel pressure you are running. i am at 20 almost 21 at idle with a tapped pump. i forget what kind of lift pump you have. if it is adjustable you can turn it down to 17# or 18# at idle. at wot you ought to be around 14 or 15 #lets see what some one else smarter:smart:than i knows before i put both my feet in my mouth. i just got them out of there from the last post i made else where.

well i guell that put me on the wrong end of things did it not. my apolagies

do you mean where the elbow bolts to the down pipe or where the elbow bolts to the turbo?

which ever gauge you go with it only needs to read to 30#. the higher you go on what pressure it reads the harder it is to get an accurate reading. glad everyhting is up and running. it is our pleasure to help you out. hang around here and you will pick up alot of useful info.

overtightning the nuts will contribute to that. i have loosened mine and retightened in the past with some succes. just kind of waiting and watching right now. they are moist but nothing is dripping off of the engine.

long bed one corner. short bed another.

they work then right? just put a set in mine and love them. price is right too.

DAP rv 275's $269 + $100 core. if it is a 2nd gen. could not figure out which truck went down. you have so many.

i guess the only thing i was driving at is you have a short bed with the hitch mounte 41" to the center of the king pin. the hitch is a slider which gives you an additional 12 " when slid to the back for a total of 53". my long bed has a hitch that is mounted 53" from the cab to the center of the king pin. so for maneuvering we are identical. for down the highway and straight line driving we are still equal with the load being placed over the rear axle. there might be a little advantage for you when maneuvering in tight places since your king pin is now not centered over the rear axle. though that could go the other way. i'd have to think about that.just another voice from the corner:stuned:.

i would give $1000 for any set of tire i could get 74k out of. the best ihave done is 65k out of a set of michelens. they are $1200 now. i willl admit i drive my truck pretty hard and that cuts into tire wear alot. so maybe it is just a personal problem. happy for mr. weed.

good you got it fixed. your pressures are running a little from what i understand. i am runnin about 20 and 17. my understanding is 20 is the max you want to feed the vp, 10 bear minimum at wot. 14 or 15 is much more desirable. i need to turn mine down a liitle. all i got to do is take the time. i am gonna shoot for 18 and 15.mike has some wiring diagrams in the downloads the will show yo all of the grounds, but it doesnt show you exactly wher they are. the ground i had the problem with was on the banks tuner. i installed it and knew which one it was. it was easy to check especially since it was just flapping in the breeze. i would start with the wirring harnes for your quad, follow it and see if you can find its ground. mine had 2 one under the dash and one under the hood. as far as the other grounds, if you start digging around under the hood you will see wires attached to the chassis, body, or the engine block. they are all grounds and it doesnt take alot to take them loose, clean them up and reattach them. i would definately start with the quad though and anything around where you were working on the vp.as far as that boost i concerned 49# is whacky. if thats happening your gonna blow somethig up. turbo, head gasket, engine. thats out of my league. i must defer to the more educated on that one.one thing that would help us all out is to fill out your signature. got to the user cp and you will see how to do that.

if i pulled mine it would fit in one the smaller if it fits it ships boxes from the post office. --- Update to the previous post... mine always sits in the sun year round. very seldom sees the shade. how about your 2. yours too RJ does it seemuch shade?

while checking for problems i found one of the grounds for my banks had broken loose and i reconnected it. all is back to normal now. prior to this i had almost no smoke and power at higher rpms was way off. upon reconnecting the ground iam back to full power and 33 to 34 punds of boost and full fuel to the engine again.it smokes more now than it did before adding the rv 275's. no big cloud but i can see it in my mirroras far as the cracked check valve, i dont know.