dripley

just comparing deminsions. sorry ill go stand in the corner and behave:(.

cab to center of my king pin is 52 1/2" to 53" and i can turn 90* no problem. my truck is a long bed.

another reason not to use the cetane boosters. i got no benifit from it at all that i could tell

its in his sig. i was just curious what it looked like.

i am afraid to take my bezel off for fear of it being a pile of broken pieces when i do. i have no idea what is keeping my dash in place. it almost looks like a jig saw puzzle. kinda like a chicken has been pecking on it:lmao:.

i ran kleen diesel for4 or 5 monthson the old pump before the new diesel fuel never notice any diffarance so i stopped. i never ran anything in it after that. ther was plent of theold stuff around until about 2 years ago i think. i have been running 2 cyle for most of the life of this pump and like it. figure it is very cheap insurance to help the vp have a long and happy life. there is lots of good info here on the subject. you ought to read up on it.

my first one went out at 75k and was replaced under warranty. i dont know what happened toit, i was just happy it was fixed at no cost tome. that one stayed in the truck for 5 1/2 years and about 140k more miles. it went thru the following; me not knowing a thing about what it needed to be healthy(probably its worst torture) one lift pump failure at 140k. dodge installs an in tank pump. started acting funny about 185k. turns out my fuel pressure was almost none existant. added a booster pump and got the pressure up around 17 and 11. but still no fuel pressure gauge(still torturing her here)read an article in a diesel magazine discussing issues with the vp and the importance of pressure. stilll no gauge article did not discuss adding one. started having bucking and dead pedal issues at 215k and decided the pump was going out and bought one. major malfundtion before i could install the pump. spemt a month on cf trying teget answers and found little help. found M1973M and every thing changed. as it turns out my pump probably was not as bad as i thought. turned out to be ecm. installed pump anyway.long story short, the second vp lasted 140k and survived an ignorant owner. i did keep the fuel filter clean and used on road diesel the whole time and it was changed before it failed. they cant be all bad to survive all of that.

i had the same problem with the polyon thats why i used the stuff i did. guess i will start looking again. i would hate for it to bust. i also drilled a small hole in my a pillar mount just below the gauge so i could tell if it was leaking. good thing i did because i did leak and i had to take it back off and retighten the line.

JAG1 we really did got off topic there. if your truck is handling ok and it can be aligned you should be ok for a while to come. 65k aint alot of miles. have you got a picture of your vp with heat sink and fan?

just so you will know i did not get my first one until just over a year ago. i ahve learned alot here also. it was a glow shift, pretty cheap and worke good until it got water hammered to death. it really did not go with the other gauges in the truck so it was not a grat loss. it did work good so i could not complain about it.i now have an isspro gauge. it is mechanical run straight inthe cab. it is connected thru a needle valve on the fuel line with no isolater. the needle valve is barely open and does the same thing. i believe it cost right at $50.

they came out with the cow about 14 years ago. there mascot use d to be doodle the chicken. they hit on something good with the cows. they are funny. who knows maybe they will build one by Mike's house and i can go live with him for a few months. one space 50amp service please. they definately plan to keep building. nothing to slow them down. they are debt free and build from their on pocket. no franchises purely corparate owned.good people to work with.

RJ glad you got her running. did you have the needle valve almost closed. mine is so shut it would only drip fuel i belive. mine is connected with that samll nylon line and works fine.(for now anyway, mike aiint never gonna let me forget if it stays on long enough to blow). the polyon looks to be the best for sure.those $90 isolators is why i used a mech right into the cab. i dont see why you could not save the filters you swapped if you can seal them up in a ziplock for storage until you need replacements. anyway iam :hyper: for you. by the way ia m patriot blue also.Old blue rules

as far as the orings last, just look at your cylinder head where the injector lines attach. if they are wet you could be sucking air into the fuel system like mine was. it could be the seal at the connector tube or the oring. that would be the same at any fuel system conection. i have heard of air leaks even where you dont see wetness but have not experianced one yet. i have seen some discussion about pressure building in the fuel tank but dont remeber what causes it.

good to hear you got your fuel flowing again. you probably have air in the system and you need to bleed it. open 1, 3, and 4 injector lines at the head. it does not have to those specificly but they are the easiest one to reach. bump your stater and get the lift pump running. do this several times and see if you have any fuel getting to the injector lines at the head. if not try it a feew more times. once you see some fuel try to crank it. if it still does not start, crack them open again and repeat. by now you ought to see some fuel at the lines. close them and try cranking again. if you have no fuel and it want start thing are not looking good for the vp. i have had to this 2 or 3 times before starting. the vp can go out without a code, but for the most part you ought to see something in the way of a code. the most imprtant thig you can do if the truck starts is GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. no matter how much fuel you see squirting out of anything you will never know what is going on in that fuel system with out one. be patient the more air you have in the system the longer it takes to get it out.

i have towed about the same as you. move my rv about 5 or 6 times a year. the owners manual states to keep the fluid topped off and you dont have to change it. i beleived them. but i did get behind on the fluid. so my problems are pretty much self inflicted. started haveing trouble about 205k with 1st and reverse jumping out of gear. then one day it stuck in 4th and had to force it out then it would not go back in. replaced it with one from a junkd yard. all new penzoil with an extra quart. would like to buld my spare but it is gonna be over my head. wrong tools and no time.Have heard of adding some anti slip for the synchros, just dont know if it is really benificial or harmful.i agree with the proactive part, but it seems every time i try, something else blindsides me. even with what i have spent i am still satisfied with what i have and do not want to buy a new one.

correct me if i am wrong. with air in the line you cannot build enough pressure to pop the injectors and let the air out that way. the fuel just keeps bouncing off of the air. just like the straw.

same here. welcome.

i think i will let my family keep calling me chicken man for now. il just be drip here for while. it would be my luck CFA would want me to pay them for use of theie logo. --- Update to the previous post... i should have explained that better. building them is what i do. been building restaraunts for 30+ years now. the past 13 mainly CFA's. we are definately not in the good times right now, but fortunately CFA has not slowed their construction pace. they are actually ramping up some. i have been fortunate over the years in construction and have weathered several recessions by working for the right people at the right time. i am fortunate to be where i am now. the times are by far worse than anything i have ever seen. just keeping my finger crossed that people dont start hating chicken.

did you ar have ever used anti slip in the oil? i have read a few threads wher people recomend it. just dont know what to think of it.

i bought what i thought was a good press with lots of parts to work on other cars also. it just did not come with a receiver cup that would work on the lower ball joint. i went back to advance auto where i bought it to see if they could help find one. they could not. so the guy called a friend of his who does that kind of work and i got ot talk to him for a little while and the best advice he could give me was to get a bfh and beat them out. even he had to beat some out on occasion. that job fell to my son for one side and my brother for the other. the man holding the drift is the man who has the crappy job. the chickeman has always had chicken balls. check the background of the avatar. thats what i do for a living.

Chicken Man's Ball Joint Repair. i can see it now.

not that i like seeing any body with a problem but when i saw the post and the poster i thought you cant buy a break. glad its not you RJ but i am sorry for your friend. my brothers chevy did that and it turned out to be the switch. the dealer told him he had to many keys hanging on his key ring. mine weighs about 3/4# so idont knowhow much truth ther is in that. could jus be a loose or bad connection in the wiring,

the 1693 is telling you that you have a code in the othe computer, ecm or pcm. that other code is 230. there is an error code section in the forums. 230 is showing a problem with the lift pump. nextime you bump your starter open the water drain on the filter canister while the pump is runnig and fuel should squirt out quite abit. if not the pump is bad. if so it still is bad just because the oe pump is not a good pump, you really need to invest in a good lift pump and fuel pressure gauge. the toll bad pressure takes on your vp is irreversable. and when it goes thats another $1000.

is that $900 just for the ball joints? if it is i need to start doing them on the side.

at $850 to$1000 a set, 4 is enough for me.