Everything posted by dripley
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Question about blocks
that sig will help. looks like you dont need anything in the tranny. it looks pretty well covered. is the 02 an auto. that would help. if it is a 6 speed then it is a ho engine. i am not sure if that will cause any problems on an auto. the fuel cannister and oil filter set up is differant. does the engine come with anything else other that the ecm?
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Banks Ottomind not working and no gauges...
good luck.
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Banks Ottomind not working and no gauges...
had any luck with it?
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Question about blocks
the 02 has a cam sensor. 01 and back have a crank sensor. i dont believe any of the 24v had both. the ecm monitors the cam or crank sensor so you might need the 02 ecm. electronics aint my strong suit. go to the user control panel and fill out your sig so we all know what kind of truck you are dealing with. it will help everyone. i have seen some right ups on stitching the block and think some have had success with it. just to big of a gamble for me. especiallly if i was going for the hp you want.
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Cummins newb from Wi
a little more hp never hurt anyone. i think we all like it. if you got 800hp and the truck wont run it aint a whole lotta good. i have learned more here from these guys than every where else put together. there is still good info on the other forums, but there is an awful lot of smart here and everyone is willing to share it.
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91 ignition wiring help
wel you gotta keep dad happy. glad you got him up and running.
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My ball joint fiasco...
thanks for the enlightenment. i wondered how much stress you could put on the components with the power steering. apparently quite a lot.
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Cummins newb from Wi
are you calling me a nut:cookoo:?
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My ball joint fiasco...
i dont know what the snap on thingy is. when idid my second one all i used was a socket and extension, backed off all 4 bolts, placed the scket and extension on one of the bolts and let the other end rest against the axle tube at the yoke. once it move sloghtly i just kept moving to a differant bolt and eased it out. it was time consuming but it worked and i dont remember any TRE getting in the way. like i said i dont know what the snap on thingy even looks like.
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Cummins newb from Wi
welcome, lookd like you got your work cut out for ya.
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Blonde joke of the day
or we could just have breakfast.
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New clutch
how smooth does it operate compared to the original. i put a valair organic with a heavy duty pressure plate and it is a little jerky at times. it hold very well but not but not smooth like the oe.
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Temperature Drop
ill be interested in how that works out for you.
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My ball joint fiasco...
dyanamite or tnt. your choice. we will back up. or maybe scrape you up. again your choice.
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Temperature Drop
did that too a while back. it helped for a little while and then went back to fluctuating all over the place.
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Temperature Drop
you should hear it if it comes on. but it only comes on when the temp get high enough under the hood. the coolant temp by it self does not make it come on. of course if your temp gauge is reading high it should get hot enough to make it come on. but if is cool out side it might not come on. like i say when i am daily driving it hardly ever comes on, i guess thats why it has lasted so long, it never gets used.
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Temperature Drop
mine has been doing the same thing for a long time. but itseems to be working better now after pulling my rv for 800 miles. the actually went up to 215* briefly coming over the blue ridge mtns. i have used everybodies tstat with the same results you have. it does seem to hold better after the trip at 185* with less frequent dips in a smaller range. we sill just have to wait and see if it stays that way. as far as your fan it should move when you push but it want spin due to the clutch thats in it. if it were staying on all the time you should be able to hear it. it sounds like a turbo prop when its on. when i was pulling the mtn in 5th gear around 2300 rpm you could still hear it come on an off. it is quite noticable. when daily driving mine hardly ever comes on, especially when your temp is running low as you are experiencing.
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turck ran fantastic then????
i retightened 1 3 and 4 today. thats the only ones i have messed with in the past. cleande everything up on the head and the intake manifold. idled the engine for a while and everything stayed dry until i turned it off. then i saw a little fuel weep from the injector line at the head. then i drove about 5 miles and got on it a little and stopped at the store and opened the hood. there was good bit of fuel laying on the manifold and the front of the intake horn had fuel all over it, so it must be spraying out of #1. drove the other 5 miles to the rv and was very easy on the throttle. when i got here i opened the hood and saw very little fuel, but still leaking. i could have over tightened it i dont know. if if did, what could i have damaged? the cross over tube or the nut on the line or both? could the o ring just be damaged and blowing all that fuel out? i know this is not why i getting fuel in the oil. from what i see the injector is about the only place it can get inside the crank case. so maybe a new set of injectors is closer in future than i wanted it to be. DAP has got a good price on rv275's right now. would yall replace the crossover tubes as well or just the orings? it just blows my mind how good it was running coming up here. it probably ran better than it ever has. she just seems to pull harder and harder with every mile i put on her. short of pop testing the injectors is ther any other way of detirmining if one is bad? --- Update to the previous post... well i replaced the cross over tube today on # 1. no more fuel leak. have been keeping an eye on my oil and it is steady and not growing. i am assuming since i am not pulling my rv that the fuel system is under much less stress just daily driving and possibly not leaking into the crank case for now. that will buy me alittle time on an injector swap. ill just keep,an eye on the oil for now.
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91 ignition wiring help
why not just replace the ignition switch?
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Truck died w/ fuel psi & no codes!
i bought mine from blue chipdiesel. but $1k wont buy one of his. he thinks alot of them. i paid $1700. he knows the vp very well and installs a new computer. mine has worked very well and i am happy with it. it is a very good pump.with that said i am not sure if i had it to do over again i would pay that much. there are others rebuilding the pumps with new computers that idid not know about at the time. Diesel auto power sells them with new or used computers.i am sure there are others that do also. personaly i would not buy one that did not have a new one. that is my only experiance with the vp, hope it helps. install is very straight forward and not difficult at all.
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Never a Dull Moment
i saw the drought map the other day on the news. i am not sure they had a dark enouhg color to cover texas with. looked pretty bad for the future. i will do my best to send you any rain we might see in tennesse because o dont need it to build my next job. yall need it just ot survive.
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Oil pressure
ther is a tap beneath the ecm on my 02. i tapped into it when i put my booster pump on years ago. it would not allow the pump to come on before it registered oil pressure. i believe it was another way of keeping to much pressure during starting. did not know that then but it makes sense now that i have learned more abotu the system. can you tap that for an oil pressure gauge?
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Wastegate Questions; any old threads?
is the 12 valve that much differant than the 24valve on the return line. my 24 valve's return line goes straight to the tank and does not tie into the supply line.
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Oil pressure
my gauge goes thru the roof when it is cold. but i relly dont believe the numbers the gauge is tring to tell me.
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Oil pressure
seeing abot the same as you on mine. though the numbers on the gauge are pretty whacky.