dripley

after my fuel life thread kinda turned into a fuel filter thread, i thought i would just ask what is best.my set up;AD II 165 with AD filters, run to the stock fuel canister, vulcan bif line kit to the vp.i am currently running the stock filters on the AD and the filter in the stock fuel canister is what ever i bought last. it seems the filter in the stock fuel canister no matter where you buy it is the same. in other words i do not have a clue as how good it is. My AD has a WS100 and a ff100-2. i need to order some replacements. thru all the discussions i am not sure which way to go. AH you are the man on filters which ones should i be using. As a father who has one son and one son in law in the military, your service is greatly appreciated and your opinions are respected. your humble tax payer, Dripley to some

is i remember it was $400 maybe $450. the mech could not figure why it was so much until we talked about the nv5600. if i had a shop it would not be a big deal to do. on a piece of plywood in the driveway makes it a little more dificult. i might could make some money at $1000 though, even in the drive way.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats about 215. shoulda listened.

all right thats 3 sets of numbers now. think ill go stick my finger in the coolant and judge for myself. louder the scream the higher the temp.

i ran aset of cooper discoverers a good while back. i dont remeber if they were atr's or not, but i only got 45k to 50k out of them. at the time they were only $30 cheaper than a michelen ltx. i was not impressed. i like the michelens but still only get 65k out of them. but maybe your driving style is bit better than mine.the new michelens are about $250 a tire now, i cant stand that either. got pirrelli scorpions now and probably will get 60 k out of them at $200 apiece. not trying to knock what you are saying about them, if i could get 70k + out of any tire, nommater what brand, i would stick with them.

if i am getting this right you are saying that the oe filter(the one that was in the truck new) filters better than the aftermarket replacements for the oe canister. or the AD filters are so crappy that the two of them will not filter as good as the one in the canister oe or after market.

is there some science behind that? if there is i am running colder than i have been thinking.

i always figured 165 and 215 since there was a 50* differance both ways. that is 140 190 and 240. thats not very scientific but it is useful.

i thought i had read enough here to see the filters on the ad were not as advertised. but do they not filter better than the oe filter alone? i currently have mine ad connected to the stock canister and a big line kit to the vp.

they cant be any worse than the factory filter.

me too. it went up to 12.25 bac home.

labor cost on the clutch should be in the neiborhood of $400, at least out my way. clutch packs vary in price depending on what you want. if you still have the oe clutch and was not slipping at all with how you use it, a stock replacement should work. i just replaced mine with 230k on the oe clutch and it still had some wear left on it. i know it would have gone another 50k. there is a possibility that the hydraulics are shot also. that can also cause the problems you are having. someone more local to you hopefully can help you find a shop that is trusworthy. give the alittle time.

i am always:banghead::banghead: when it comes to electrical. iam getting a little better but i sure hate practicing because that usually means something is wrong. went thru to much of that when my ecm took a dump. i saw your post on the frying the edge chips. i just dont know enough about that to offer anything. but it looks like we both learned something today any way.

i am no electrical genuis by any means, but it appears to come from the alternator. it must be the main feed going thru the fuse to the electrical system. i am sure some one will correct me if i am wrong.

eric is good people too. i dont think he will let you down either.

i am running 750 to 825 on flat ground in 6th gear(70 mph) and grossing around 21k. 4" turbo back. seems i am runnig a little cooler mike and mr towmamn. but i am alot lighter than towman. mike and i also have differant tuners that would make a differance i would think. i dont know what mine ran stock because i had no gauges. i was less learned at the time.

youu ought to think about replacing the other one. you are only as good as your weakest one.

it is in the community forum. first listing. vendors and dealers. if ti makes ya feel any better i had to look for it too.

i cant see why daily driving a built a auto would be differant than driving a heavy duty manual. i drive most of my miles un loaded. i have heard here and other forums of people pulling heavier trailers in od in an auto. but ihave no personal experiance with an auto.

the raptor pumps are good, and reasonbly priced. the AD i put in mine was way overkill.but i figured i woud cover myself if i ever wanted to get crazy with mods. talk to DAP he would be a big help in deciding. he is on the vendors list here.

good to hear. letus know how that tstat works out. did not mean to hijack your thread, just got carried away.

so is it the oe pressure plate that is weak and causing the clutch to be so soft? i though ther might be something differant in the hydraulics giving it a better mechanical advantage. i would sure love to have one in my truck for traffic jams, but everyday driving it would drive me crazy.

i would say you are going to be putting a new lift pump in very soon or you are going to be putting in a new vp also. that pressure is seriously low. you need to get upwards of 17 idle, 15 wot. i have my AD set at 20 idle, and it drops to 16.5 wot.

thanks bob. my memory has been jogged.

i cant say i have ever tried that one.