dripley

it is not that difficult. as mike says disconnect the batteries first. i let mine sit for a while. i was worried about the air bag going off. i believe ther were only four screws holding the air bag in place. once it is off just remove the steering wheel, you will need a puller, and as i remember it is right there. be sure you have your steering wheel centered when you do it because the clock spring comes set to go on a centered wheel. it was pretty simple to do, i dont rememeber how long it took.

one thing that drew me to the banks was the fact there were no adjustments. your right foot is the adjustment. i will admit i might have gone with something else if i had thought about setting on the highest level and just using my foot. it would be the same as what i have. all of those adjustments just turned me off.

i have always liked the physical gauges myself. but iguess if you are getting ggod info on what ever gauge you are using what differance could it make. i just dont want to be messing with a computer screen to see them. mine are all right in fornt of me, though the factory stuff is a little iffy on accuracy.

i ll be thinking about you russ. i just pulled out of elizabeth nc this am. took the rv with me and dropped it off in durham nc. it will be safe there. looks like the storm might clam a little before it hits you. there is going to be a hellava lot of rain though. try not to float away.

his truck is still running the stock lift pump. it is run straight from the ecm. my AD is set the same as your raptor.

now thats hot.

i took me 5 or 6 times to get past that part. the video it showed kept getting interupted by something. i was able to enter what it asked for twice and got refused both times. that last time i tried it worked fine.

i was afraid of that.i didnt think that relay controled it. appreiate the help.

i have a friend with an 01 5 speed. his lift pump will not cut off when you turn off the ignition. he has even diisconnected the driverside battery and it stopped, but when reconnected it comes back on. any ideas?

i had a little trouble myself. but i think it was me. got in though.

the only thing i put in my truck that brings it down near or to the overloads is my rv. it will make the truck just about touch them. i just hauled a lod of scrap iron to the yard. it weighed 1500 pounds and i was not even close to the overloads. mine rides very good with a load like that. much better than empty.

a little update here. when i first hooked every thing up , after buying the new battery, all seemed well. then i noticed the lights were alot brighter than they should be, but not always. i checked the voltage and was seeing 19volts in some of the light sockets. they ton d back down and i didnt worry about it. the next day i came home and thought i was smelling sewer in the trailer. turned out it was the batery cooking. went outside and the battery was hot and the coverter was hot. i checked the coverter and it was going crazy. out put was out of line i just dont remember the voltage. long story short i replaced the converter and all is well now. all the voltage is back to normal. the battery is happy though it might have cooked it and probably shortened its life span we will just see how that works out. i got a few bulbs to replace too they did not like the 19 volts.

so you think sitting on the anvil might not be advisable?

is it all draining out or just the top inch or so. icould see some of it going back into the fuel pump, but just to the level of the inlet.

it is an AD165 and it is overkill for my truck. the pressure on it is adjustable. the raptor is adjustable also and i believe youcan get the same pressure out of it. The AD will pump more gph than the raptor. another reason iwent with the AD165 is it came with a kit to eliminate the in tank pump dodge gave me a few years ago. the in tank pump is a pos. the pressure was lousy and i ended up putting a booster pump on the frame rail to help it. the in tank pump cost $1000 and the booster pump cost around $300 plus my time. i did not know anything about the fuel system in these truck then and just went along with the dealer. the AD cost me $630 and my time to install, a cheaper product that works right for the truck.

i saw an ad for this on the history or discovery channel the other day. looks pretty wild. not sure i am going to participate. but you never know. i saw a video of some folks in Mexico that get together and strap exploxives of some sort onto sledge hammers and slam them down detonating the explosives while they are holding on to them. these guys make anvil shooting somewhat tame. i wish i could find yall the video.

my mother inlaw came here from Japan in the mid 50's. she taught herself how to speak english and became a naturalized cititzen of this country. she put becoming a citizen ahead of most everythig else. she just felt that if she was going to be here she neede to learn what it was all about. of course in the 50's everything was in english anyway. it was either sink or swim. that is the way it should be now. if you can vote in this country you should be able to read the language.

sounds like you got it. leave the hose connected to the actuator and aplly air to the hose. i am not sure but i think yours should start to open around 20 psi.

i know 10psi is low.but from what you are saying its probably ok since under normal circumstances you would not see 10psi. mine stays right at 16.5 at wot even above 3k rpm. mine does not see that very often, only when the teenager in me comes out. if you see that pressure constantly it would be a problem. the overflow on the vp doesnt fully open till around 14 psi and thats where you get all of your cooling from.

i will be ther tomorrow. tahnks alot.

throw some pepper on it. always works on my nose.

dakotas also?

go to vulcand performance .com and look for the big line kit. that is what i installed so i could use the oe fuel canister. i still wanted the water in fuel warning light and the fuel heater to function. it is installed between the fuel canister and the vp. alot of guys by pass that when they install there fuel system. i just chose not to fpor the reasons above. if you just want toget a quick fp gauge installed look and see if you cannot just remove the shcrader vave and tap into that for the gauge. you can do that for a ittle bit of nothing while you are deciding what to do. the fuel ine from the filter back can wait untill you decide. 98white is right you can buy the gauge without the isolater and save money. the needle valve replaces the isolater. that is why it is important to barely crack it open.

my AD came with the kit to install the pick up in the basket. i have been a little leary about runnign it low. last tank fillup took 34 gallons so it must be working preety good. i did not understand what yall meant by fuel slosh until i saw the gauge drop out. a little freaky there. do you know what the max pressure should be at idle?

10 psi at wot is low. in an earlier post you said you had 16 at wot. could be a sign of your ddrp is crapping out. i dont know what if anything that would contribute to a hot hard start problem.