dripley

way to go joe. nothing like ingenuity at work.

on my 02 the inlet is at the top of the canister and the outlet to the vp in on the bottom. i could see the fuel running into the outlet but pretty much no where else. when i install a filter in the canister i snap into the cap and screw it in and have never seen in the filter after it is installed. i just bump the starter a couple of times and start the truck. i think they changed the canister in 02 and mine is probablly differant than yours though.

my 96 had a cup thrower not a cup holder. also had a v10 and no cummins. it was a lot of fun but i dont miss it. gald i did not have it when gas was $4 a gallon. steering was not very good. needed work. but very much like my 02.`my 02 has the cracked dash. it is all still there but i am afraid to put anything on it for fear of it falling thru. would not trade the cummins though. i rebuilt the front end on this one though and it steers much better. still needs alittle more work though.

Hey mike, this isnt the same guy you attacked with a molten ball joint is it?

when mine went it started wearing both front tires like i had them under inflated even though i was running them with 80psi. fixed all that and the ecm went:spend:. fixed that then a new nv5600 was needed:spend:. i need about a year trouble free to recouparate from all that. i dont want to know about my steering box yet.

the first day of operation after installing the master was a pain. i was constantly pumping the clutch just to get it to work. but gradually over 10 days or so it was back to where it should have been. now dont get me wrong that is probably not a great way to do it. at the time i did not know any bettter but it worked out in the end. sometimes ignorance is bliss:hyper:.

it is a 4wd. with CV joints. not a standard u joint like on the 2500.

well i dont have any Scot in me, but when mine went i just replaced the master because i didnot know amy better. the instructions as i remeber wer alittle strange. cant remember exactly how though. i filled it with fluid before install but some spilled and there was a fair amount of air in it. i had to pump like crazy to get it to work and it engaged very low. i had trouble with it for several days but it kept getting better and eventually it came back up to normal. every where i have read since replacing mine states that the whole system has to be installed as a unit.master, slave and hydraulic lines. Mike has a good write up here an how to do it. it still involves taking the whole system off. when i installed my master i did not have benifit of this info and just replaced it. sometime ignorance is bliss i suppose. when i replace the slave it came with a bleeder screw on it and i just put it on, bled it and it has been working fine ever since. some of the slaves dont come with a bleeder though. enough of all that. your clutch should engage higher, could still be some air in the line causing that. read mike's write up. if you dont have any bleeder screw on anything the wite up will show you how.

i have got what sounds like a wheel bearing going bad. a low pitched growl that increases and decreases with wheel speed only. it doesnt change with engine rpm. trans can be in gear or in neutral, strictly constant with wheel speed. i have jack up both sides of the front and theris no movement in the wheels side to side or top to bottom. It is a 4 wheel drive and i dont now much about the drive axles. all of the boots apear to be in good condition and nothing seems out of the ordinary. is there anything else up front that might growl liek that?

that is a bout the easiest way there Mike. me i had to drink the beer, hold the camera, drink some more beer, drop the tank, drink some more beer. oops better put the tank on tomorrow:stuned:

nice country side there mike. never hurts to get off of the beaten path every once in a while and see whats beyond the the main highway.

since installing mine i dont have to use the service except to biring us to a complete stop. i just changed my fronts out and will have to see how long they last. factory rears still on. i have noticed lately though that it is a little harder to stop though. not bad for 230k on the rear though. the eb has been one of the best upgrades that i have installed.

mine has not fallen thru yet. i think i might be buying a $30 one to cover it up for a little while. genos garage has them for around $30 and $130 i believe.

if you run the tank almost empty, dropping the tank and installing a drawstraw ain't very hard to do. 2 to 4 hours tops.

well i was trying to figure out how you could push a plug thru the head, but those pictures explain it all.

i have had the same problem with polyon here at home. the local napa guy just has a blank stare when i talke to him about it. i need to try the other branch here and see if they have the same blank stare.

i did put an air dog II165 on mine. i dont have all the mods you do but i just put in what would handle any thing else i might want to do or wish to do. at least i want have to worry about fuel pressure any more. the raptor is a good way to go at about $350 i think. that would be better than another carter. i pretty much did the same thingfor a while. i put a new vp on from blu chip diesel and at $1700, the air dog is great insurance even at $650. ther are good vp's out there for around $1000, but to loose it to fuel pressure sucks no matter what you paid for it.

you might be able to tell by the sudden sound of, whats that,.......................silence!

the idle pressure isnt bad, but the wot is a low. you need at least 14 to 15 to insure plenty of fuel is circulating to keep your vp cool. the fuel also keeps your pump lubricated. 2 stroke oil added to your fuel will help that alot. about 1oz per gallon.whats killing your sender is not just a spike at start up, but the water hammering effect the vp produces when the engine is running. the crappy carter you speak of, is just that crappy. i had an intank replacement curtosey of dodge which deliver even less pressure than you have. installed a carter booster pump on the frame rail which got mine up considerably. i was fine with that and no fp gauge untill i really started looking into the fuel systems on our trucks. after several articles and some time on other forums, i found mikes site here and found more help here than all of them put together. ditch the carter and upgrade to a raptor, fass, or and air dog. you will be glad you did. replacing a vp is not difficult but paying for one is. i have not gone into any great detail here due to the fact that Mike has some very good and helpful write ups on all of the above( fuel pressue, water hammer, lift pumps and many other things). Just go to the home page and look under 24valve section and read. then you can form your own opinions on which way to go. if you have more question after you read just post them and we will try and answer them for you. by the way, when you see a 216 code it wil probably be to late

i see a whole list of mods in your truck, curious as to what kind of lift pump you have and the fuel pressures you are running.

got a new belt on mine. they just sneeze every so often. mine has done it for 10 years.

you can cut into and install a fitting with a tap for your sender in the fuel line between the filter and vp. that is what i have done with mine though it is a mechanical gauge. talk to eric at vlucan performance and he could fix you up with whatever you need. that is vulcanperformance.com. still have not figured out how to post a link. maybe one day i will take the time to learn.

and i appreciate the opinion. sometimes insignificant things can lead very significant problems.

sure, get it down here and ill put it up for ya.