dripley

I almost always use 2nd to start out. Just let out the cluthc and off she goes. 208k on the original clutch. Is there any good way to check the wear without taking somenthing apart?

I might have mislead you about the puller fitting in the opening at the breather cover. It does not have to fit inside the opening. but you can see the gear thru the opening. any puller you can get in front of the gear will work. Mine came off very easisly. Just be careful with the key in the shaft, if it falls out into the gear case it will make the job much more difficult

I think those were the codes. I did not really care as long as they went away. 207,500 mostly trouble free miles. nothing major at all just samll stuff. 207,501 both front wheel bearings, IP going out, and the ECM died. Got paid back for the rouble free miles. all new now.

went home las t weekend and installed my rebuilt ecm. fingers crossed i turned the switch on and the electronics cycled like i had not seen in months:hyper:. started the engine and all was fine. stepped onthe throtle and it responded. i alsmost fell out of the truck:thumb1:. the check engine light went out and out the driveway i went. i've been driving a Dakota with rack and pinnion steering and when i hammered the gas i remembered my steering was not quite the same and held on for dear life, but i could not take my foot of the pedal. she ran great. went back home and started checking things out and my son spots fuel coming from on of the injector lines on the IP. Turned out to be one we didnot tighten when we installed the IP. Of course it was one on the back side and we had to take off half the fuel lines to get to it. That was a small price to pay to drive again. took off to maryland to work, 470 miles, ran beautifully. 20 mpg and ran like a scalded dog. I appreciate all the info i got here and will be posting on future endevors to keep Blue going another 500k. thanks again. I went to advance auto today to use ther scan tool to erase the codes still in the ecm. 2 of the codes they pulled where about problems with my " glow plugs ". we erased the codes and apparenly the glow plugs, and i cycled the switch. the only codes I have now are p done and e done. thanks to all again

i never tried smacking it. might work though. any small puller should work as long as it will fit in the opening in the timing cover. take off the crankcase breather and you can see the gear

thaks, i did not remeber seeing a ground wire connected there. --- Update to the previous post... wow and i thought i had troubles. I appreciate the info. did not have time to check the grounds at the starter today. --- Update to the previous post... i downloaded those the other day. i never had any idea ther could be so many grounds on one thing. enjoyed speaking with you today and thanks for the help. --- Update to the previous post... thanks to all of you. I installed my rebuilt ecm today and drove my truck for the first time in 6 months. stilll got a few things to check out and more people to thank.

I just took the grounds apart under the battery and cleaned the ring terminals but did not think to look at the wires them selves. the terminals were slightly dirty but not corroded. I cleaned them and reconnected them and have a good ground. i will go back and look at the wires closer. when i first took my ecm off i never saw any ground wire going to it. should there be one? I ran one straight form the battery to on of the mounting bolts for the ecm. You mentioned you had many problems. so did I. High and low voltage warnings from the temp, cam, iat, and map sensors plus a few odds and ends. your problems anything like that?

I have read here about the ground above the atarter for the ecm. will running a new ground from the battery to the ecm serve the same purpose or does the ground above the starter serve a greater purpose than just the ecm?

Thanks. all i've had is a hodge podge of ones picked up heaer and there. Now if I can only use them.

liveoak, when he mentioned "home brew" i'm thinking beer which i have made at home on and off over the years and will make a new batch to celebrate win my truck drives again. the only tax you get fromthat is when they catch you driving and drinking it. sorry for the confusion. we don't make much bio diesel here, but moonshiming still alive here in NC.

Its legal to brew your own beer and make wine at home up to certain amount in gallons. you just can't sell it. forget how many gallons a year you can make. but its legal. got a rig at my house to make beer. I will probably have to make some to celebrate if i ever get my truck running.

02 2500 4wd 207K. i'll pile on some more when she's running again.

i've driven mine in sugar sand and sand in fla and nj on the job site. sinks like a brick in 2wd no problem in 4wd on michilene ltx's. the jobsites are pretty flat and the dry sand is much worse than wet sand. thats from rainfall not an ocean.

i need to install a fuel pressure gauge when my truck s running again. I have seen alot of them on the internet with price varying alot. which is the best to have, mechanical or electric? or is there any differance in the performance of either? I do like the one that mopar has with the green range on it but can't seem to find that gauge anywhere. I can hook up either i just want to do it once and not twice. any help is appreciated.

my grading foreman here in maryland says he has been pulled over by the dot here and had his tank checked. it was the only reason he was stopped. he carries a 100 gal in bed tank on a gas burning truck.

I don't have my computer back yet but was thinking about replacing the wiring harnes in mine. Where does one buy a new harness. good luck on yours.

if it makes you feel any better, I had my truck for over a year before i realized there were 2 batteries in it.

An irs agent showed up on one of my jobs in Kissimmee fla wanting to stick everybodies tank. I asked him what the fine was if i did not let him stick my tank. suprisingly the fine was exactly the same for running the fuel, $1,000. that was about 5 years ago. I imagine ther's been a little inflation since then.

thanks guys. i will give it a shot. liveoak the 5th aft shaft you are speaking of is in the nv4500. does the overfill pretain to the nv5600 as that is what i have. I have seen talk about this both ways. to over fill or not to overfill.

sombody has to be the man. I have learned more here in the past 6 weeks than on the past 6 years. Thanks to all who contribute.

many moons ago. over 110k

i am getting high and low voltage warnigs. i am getting sytem high voltage warning along with sensor low voltage warnigs. my altenator is putting a steady 13.7 to 13.8 volts and my sensors all are receiving 5 volts as they should. i probably can out washes under the connection, i was tying to figure out if it is pruposely this way to prevent over tightening of the connection. i will have to see if i can get the connector off as it seems there must be some form of clip on the end of the bolt because it did not seem to back out all the way when i last worked on it. hopefully my "working ecm" will be in my hands soon.

prior to mey ecm going out i had noticed the my tranny had started slipping out of fisrt and reverse. I had also notice it was getting hard to put in reverse, much more than normal. it does not jump out under load, just slips out when i let off of the throttle. both gears stay in as long as i am under load. Is this an omen of things to come?

bring this back up again. went home last weekend and cleaned up some other grounds i learned about here. still no change in codes or how the truck is running. i actually bought my rebuilt ecm from Auto ecu and not ace as i stated earlier. must have been asleep too. i have sent the ecm back to them and they agree there is still something wrong with it and say they are going to fix it. we'll see. while searching the forums i have seen a few references to the connection in the power distibution center not being tight. mine will tighten up to a point where the bolt does start to slip, like the threads are not long enough. should this connection be tight or is this purposely desighned this way to prevent over tightning? i have also read there is a bundle of wires under the driver side battery. i guess i will check those out next weekend and hopefully install a working ecm.

hate to beat the big man up. but even my uneducate self new that one.