dripley

did you go back oem or upgrade? don't know how long mine is going to last. is there any easy way to check for clutch wear?

nothig better than a sexyblonde with a tight body who ain't interested in doin it. i failed the income test though.

the banks does come both ways, stock and 4". Mine is 4" from turbo back. came with the stinger plus system. the one on ebay for $890 is for stock exhaust. the 4" was $990 everywhere i looked which is about 200 less than when I looked at em 5 years ago. BD's data looks like it holds more pressure at lower rpms than banks. i do like the warm up feature on the banks and what appears to be litle to no maintenance. i am still leaning towards banks due to experience with the stinger plus. I appreciate your opinion. --- Update to the previous post... [*]that speaks alot for the bd, cause i know how highly you have spoken about your jacobs brake in the past. I do like the banks warm up feature and low maintenance. performance wise bd shows theirs is better. igues the only way to tell would be to try them both. don't think my wallet could stand that. i appreciate your input. [*]i have 217k on my rear brakes. on my 3rd set of front brakes. also have my original clutch. do you still have yours?

i am going to put an exhaust brake on my truck. since i have had a Banks stinger plus on it for 5 years i am leaning towards the banks brake. cost is about 1k and should install easily. it has a warm up feature that keeps the brake close on start up until water temp hits 125 or you step on the throttle. seen alot of yall talking about e brakes but never about banks. my stinger has worked great since i put it on 5 years ago. ay opinions?

that does make a bit of a differance.

appreciate the info. How old is that video or is your truck allways that clean under the hood? Mine has not looked like that since 2004.

My right foot has always been a lot heavier than it should be:shrug:. gonna go back home next weekend and haul my rv back and see what kinda milage i get. sent my right foot to jenny craig.

i bought mine with a manual because the GCVWR was 4k pounds higher than the auto. i had also heard several stories of auto tranny failure. why they failed i don't know did not check it out. Though if you don't like shifting gears a 6 speed would be out of the question. stuck in traffic is a pita also. from what i am reading here i really don't think i would have gone wrong with an auto. i just got stuck on the GCVWR when i bought it.

It probably means your other bearing is not far behind the first one. that is how mine went. i had a little noise and was not sure what it was until the abs light came on. i replaced that one and the second one went out 3 days later with no warning. i am no genious on these things but it sounds very familiar.

my truck is pretty nasty from the puke bottle. anyone who looks at it tells my front seal has to be leaking. while my truck was parked in a garage for about 5 months ther were only 2 small spots i cleaned up with a paper towel. i change my oil every 8 to 10k and never have to add any oil between changes.

since getting my truck back on the road my milage has gone from 18.5-19 to 20mpg. I do have a new vp44 from blue chip and now run 2 cycle. i tow a 36' cardinal 5th wheel weighing approw 13.5 to 14k. it is 12' 8" tall. ibelieve that qualifies as a billboard, and got 10 t0 10.5 mpg running 70 mph in 5th or 6th gear. i have not towed the trailer yet after my repairs to know the milage yet. i hope it is better we'll see.since my previous dodge had a v10 i am extremely happy with my milage.

it looks like your bolt has a nut facing me and hexbolt head on the back side of dampner. mine has a flange on the back side that i can rotate:broke:. I cant figure out why it would rotate, nothing else does. I am speaking of the bolt nearest the center of the axle. I tried hitting the threaded end but the tie rod from the steering box is in the way. off subject , how do you like your steering stabilizer? i plan to put mine on this week end. did you encounter any dificulties?

PITA it is. did your bolt resemble what i described or is my description lacking?

did't take him to long to figure that out.

I did not get the bolt of the tie rod today. bfh and sfh did not work so good.:banghead: I did notice the bolt looks strange, threads sticking out of one side and on the other a larger two tiered shaft about 5/8" long with the dampner against it and on the othe rside of the damper a flange. this flange would rotate with a pair of channel locks but niether move in or out while rotating. will it beconme apparent what this is when i get it off or does any one have any experience with this fastner?

i kinda thought that what it was. torchless today but have a bfh and a sfh. a little excercise never hurt anyone. thanks

I am trying yo replace my steering dampner. what kind of bolt is thru the tie rod and how do you get it out?

the cruise light stays on all the time. none of the controls do anything.

i thinkd the 4wd on my nv5600 is strictly mechanical, but isn't the cruise thru the pcm and not the ecm? do not know for sure. ihate computers.

my vents blow thru every where they should, though i have always had heat thru the defrost even when the selector showed flor only. came thru the floor but also the defrost since new in 01.

Have not checked my vac. I believe my 4wd operates mechanicly though. saw the linkage today while filling my tranny. i have a nv5600.

I don't know about a 99 but my 02 has a camshaft positioning sensor behind ther that i wish i had replaced while i was in there. just did not know about it until i had replaced the IP. your 99 might not have one. could have a crank sensor in a differant location.

by that do you mean the switches in the steering wheel and if so how do you adjust them? --- Update to the previous post... It did work fine until the ecm took a crap. I did not clean the connection in the steering wheel when reconnecting, but did reverse the 2 connectors just to be sure i did not have them connected wrong. it did not change a thing. the cruise light remained on with nothing working but the light.

i recently got my truck on the road after replacing my ecm. everything worked just fine except my cruise control. It went nutty at the same time everything else did. the cruise light burns all the time but will not set. none of the the other controls function either.I replace the clockspring while i was trying to find the original problem. there are no codes thrown either. thought i might have connected the wires backwards in the steering wheel so i reversed them, no change. Any body got any ideas?