dripley

my back is a little weak after crawling around on the ground today. i thought your back was the tranny jack. you hold it up while i unbolt it. now thats funny.

MMMMMM? NC to Idaho? do i need to bring my tools? the clutch is next.

i just went thru the ecm thing about 3 months ago. i had all kinds of low and high voltage codes on almost every sensor on the engine and it never thru the code for the ecm until i had it rebuilt. i had to send it back to get it rebuilt again. they fixed under warranty, but i sat around for 5 weeks until i got it back. it works fine now, but the quality of the rebuild is in question. at least i have a 5 year warranty.

i would like to wish all of yall a merry christmas. i just spent chrsitmas eve rebuilding my fornt end. had it not been for joining this forum and getting to know yall i probably would not have done it myself. jsut a big thank you to all af you and have a very merry christmas. psif any of you came by a spare garage that nobody needs, tell ill take it, its a real pita doing all of this in a gravel drive way.

when my light dings i can get about 31 gallons. My max on the tripometer has been 680. thats about as for as my cajoonies will let me take it. i go by the tripometer as much as the gas gauge.

yeah, i just wanted Russ to know why i did not have either.

part of my system included a new exhaust housing and waste gate that opens around 35 psi. that is why i don't have a boost elbow or j hook.

My banks otomind tuner will not let the computer see boost over 20 or so pounds. your quad might do the same thing, as far as boost fooling. i would think the owners manual would have that info in it. the new waste gate with my system opens at 34 to 35 psi. I have no seperate boost fooler or j hook and pull 33 t0 34 pounds no problem for the 5 years i have had it. the waste gate i have came with the stinger plus, if yours is stock it will open around 20 or so psi and i believe you would need a j hook or a different waste gateto get higher boost. just speaking from my experience, i am sure someone out there knows more about it than i do. good luck

welcome

welcome. you will enjoy it here. lots of knowledge to share.

the money does suck. i am not far behind you on repairs. the ecm was the worst for me. didnt no squat about the electronics untill that thappened. it was a good education, though pricey. so far i have done all the work myself and like you it is more fun than working. driving it is the reward.

its been a while but i believe i used a brake line wrench on mine. i definately dont remember having any problems with the center nut.

is it still running? does only run when you spray it with the carb cleaner or do you just have todo that to start it?

sw -25 for about 8 days in a row up in the poconos in penn. the plumber came by my apt every morning to jump off my chevy gasser just so i could go watch him work. he dug his ditches with a jack hammer. the man never took a day off.

sure looks like you could put which ever one you wanted on either one. as long as the bolt patterns match.

thankyou for encreasing my education level. i must now go buy a bigger hat so my head willfit in it.

my hx35 looks just like the one on the right with the elbow bolted on.

happy to hear you got it fixed.

rack em up mr flynn. im rootin for that 1 mil.

very nice:thumb1:. do one for an 02 and my education level would increase.

my original lasted 145k. the dealer fixed it with aan intank unit, oh joy. i think its worse than the stock one. had to install a booster pump just to get enogh pressure to run the vp. lot of folks here have seen them go alot quicker, less than a year. check your fuel pressure to the pump. there is a schrader valve on theinlet to the vp that you can attach a test gauge to. at least you can eliminate that as a problem. when you say you got it started with carb cleaner, did you use it like starter fluid? if so be aware that those intake heaters we talked about can ignite the fluid in your air intake system and cause all kind of problems:ahhh:

lift pump maybe. earlier you said you had replaced a few. how old is the one you have now? is it the oem style? do you have any fuel pressure to the vp44?

my hx35 connects to the down pipe thru an elbow bolted to the back of exhaust housing. there is no clamp holding anything together.

you are welcome sir. my truck is a manual and i get gear in and out feeling, just something that loads the engine. might feel that way in an auto, dont know. it should not affect your apps though since it operates on 5 volts(someone correct me if i am wrong abotu that). as far as your batteries if you test them while they are connected you will only be as good as your worst battery. testing them disconnecte is the right way, and if you did have them both disconnected you do need to resest your apps. just connect the batteries, turn the switch the on position, truck not running, slowly depress and release the throttle and turn it off. it is reset:hyper:. sorry it took so long to get back with you. --- Update to the previous post... mike, for the first 8 years i had my truck the heaters would pull my voltage down as low as 9 volts and dimthe heck out of the lights:stuned:. i just thought that was normal after it was explained to me what it was. did that until my ecm took a crap. with the rebuilt one it might pull it down to 11 and they cycle quickly and turn off quickly. totally different behavior now. does that first description sound like yours 1?