dripley

i run fairly cheap ones. i find that when they sart streaking i swap them to the opposite sides and they work much better for a while longer.

at least i am lucky some times. I have removed mine twice without breakage. once 5 years ago to intstall my 4" ehaust and exhaust housing and once 2 months ago to install my exhaust brake. they just came right out with very little effort.

that rotor on the right is pretty aggresive. did it stop real smooth?

i believe i will be holding onto to my 02 for while. that makes a vp sound pretty cheap.

i could not find one at auto zone or advance when mine went bad. just went to autozone web site and they had one for $250. said it came programmed. the part # was completely differant from mine though. from shat i haave read here ther are many different part#s for our computers. wish they had had something like that when mine went bad coulda saved a ton of money and time. i could not even find one at a juckyard for that kind of money. seems like every time i fix something somene comes out with cheaper stuff. to diagnose the ecm i believe you have to have an OBDIII computer for that. the guy that fixed mine had one. someone else here probably knows more about it than i do.

mine just went out and i had to replace it. i broke down in a small town in Tenn. a buddy of mine hooked me up with alocal mech. he possesed an OBDIII which alllowed him to program it. he got me the ecm that lists for about $1400 at dodge for $1000. he even found me acore for $100. i had the one on the truck rebuilt about 6 months ago and it is under warranty and i wanted to keep it and have it fixed for a spare. anyway he got me going for $1100 for the ecm and $100 to program it. i dont know what the dealer will do about the price you would just have to negotiate with them. out here they charge around $150 to program them. after my experience with rebuilding my old one i would not go that route again unless ther is someone here who knows a rebuilder that know what he is doing. what test did you do on your apps that told you the ecm was bad?

greetings form the east coast and welcome. you will find alot of help here for just about anything you need to know.

iput a steering stabilizer on mine the helped the wandering. straight line steering bugs me. it seems to over and under steer in the first 2" of wheel turn.

this thread keeps getting better every day. the radiator cap i put on mine made a very big differance. it actually warms up on short trips. only about 30* here though.

:iagree:kinda sets a new GOLD standard i believe. welcome.

i dont know who got to over rule who, but i did order a shift tower. at 90 bucks it aint a bad thing to try. a tranny overhaul is going to is going to make that look like chump change. so we will see if it helps. the clutch change has made the tranny sift as smooth as silk. the friction surface of the old clutch still had a ton of ware left on it. it looked like it still had a 100k left on it, based othe 220k i already had on it. not sure why changing the clutch made that much differance but it did. pretty sure it is something internal, but i will throw a shift tower at it and see what happens.

there are alot of discusions here and other forums about this. pro and cons exist every where you go. I just rebuilt my fornt end with moog parts. i have heard good and bad about them and the oe parts both. only time will tell for me wether the moog is any better than what came on the vehicle. i have heard that most alignment shopes dont know how to deal with the adjustable ball joints. dont know how true that is so i went with non adjustable. i replaced every thing except the steering box(track bar,tierod ends, drag link all of it). i got a very good price from advance auto. they gave me 20% off and had them in stock. Rock auto.com has a better price. if you have some time to wait. they also have a large vatiety of other brands to choose from. i cant recomend any of them untill i see how the moog holds up. the upper and lower will require you to have a press the remove and install, mainly to install, you can beat the old ones out. lowers anyway. if you still have the factory parts on the truck replace them all. it is not a bad day working on your truck. as far as the specs for the alignment i left mine up to the alignment shop. steering was much better though straight line driving requires more input than i like and i will probably take it back and let them try something different. hope this helps.

the shifter just screws on to it. it is threadied. it can be replaced in the cab fairly easlily. hope it helps

got it back today. clutch is a little jerky, chatters a little. gears shift as smooth as silk. still pushes out of 1st and rev, but differantly. not sure how do describe it but it is not the same. AGoing to pu a new shift tower in and see what happens.

have the same problem with a new tstat. just replaced the radiator cap and i think it stopped. truck has been down for a while so i want know until tomorrow. could be either one. radiator cap is much cheaper. mine was 9 years old:duh:.

i ran diagnostics on my sensors as directed by All Data(this was before finding this site) and they all showed thay were bad, but when i did voltage checks on them they were all working as they should have. dually is right about the expense, check your sensors and be sure they are working as they should. if they are i would lean toward the ecm being bad. above all dont just go buy one hoping that wil fix your problems.

just got my truck back. the last thing i got from the shop before i left was a radiator cap. my temp held steady the entire 90 miles back in 25* weather. the only time it dropped was at a red light and then it only dropped about 5*. dooh:doh:. it was the one that came on the truck in 01. never gave that cap any thought to a temp problem. live and learn.

i got my truck back today and drove it:hyper:. my cruise control works again:hyper::hyper:. i sure missed that one. my new clutch is a little chattery, i hope that is because it is new. seemed to get a little better as i drove it. it is also a little more aggresive than the stock one. i was surprised to see that the oe was only about 65% gone. i suspected alot more wear after 220k. the tranny shifts like a hot knife thru butter, but still pushes out of 1st and rev. i have a new shift tower coming and will install and see if that helps. If not ill start sving my nickels and dimes for a rebuild. all donations are accepted and appreciated. anyway, thanks for all of y'alls help and suggestions. my truck is under my ___ again.

what year is your ctd? does the engine run when you crank it? i have been fighting problems like yours for months. mine turned out to be the ecm. more info on your truck would be helpful.

that would be the only bet i would have won tonight. good luck on the 1 mill.

been wondering about that myself cajflyn. your sig still says 930k. as many miles as you drive you ought to be near 950k by now.

i believe i am just going to put a new shift tower in and see what happens. i can afford that.

then mechanic said the tranny was more than he could tackle. he also said there was no slop in the input or output shaft. he installed the new clutch set the and i had to let him put the tranny on as is. dont have enough time or at this time. i will just have to be careful with it until i can afford a rebuild. gonna pick it tomorrow.

that would be me. the only thing i wever did to a tranny was take it off and put a clutch in. of course those trannys i could pick up by myself.