dripley

i am afraid i am coming to the same conclusion. just have not had much luck finding someone to work on it. --- Update to the previous post... Hello GB. if i though card board would help i would unpack both of those bearings and stuff it full. seems like every time i get things right something els goes. hope i am nearing the end of anything major for a while. good to hear from ya.

i have posted before about my 6 speed and it jumping out of 1st, rev, and 6th. today i was coming home and went to shift for m 4th to 5th and it stuck in 4th. it did shift into 5th but it took some effort to get it out. it now no longer will go into 4th. it pulls into the position but does not engage the gears. 3rd is clashing just a wee bit but working fine while in gear. it never made any noises just stuck ther in fourth until i forced it out. i am sure i have to either rebuild or replace the tranny. i have had a hard time finding any one who wants to work on that six speed. i know some of you out there have 6 speeds and i was hoping you have had some good experiance with any of the many remanufacturers out there. or maybe some has one laying around they might want to get rid of. i also want ot know if any one has any opinions on wether they would drive this thing or park it before i have a catasrophic failure.

i am curious as to why you must drain the coolant before messing with the oil filter cannister.

i have seen some of the raptor with less than a lifetime warranty my self. i also have some photos of what your in tank pump looks like in the basket if that will help.

happened to me the other day also. i am still in shock. price differance did not last long though. i have found diesel in the low to mid 3.80's in eastern NC. gas in the high 3.50's

like finding a small gold mine. --- Update to the previous post... it does look like an 8' bed.

welcome. this is a great site. lots of info.

thats alot of truck for 24k. low milage at 38k if i read that right.

happy to hear you found your problem. no matter what pump you decide to install remember you either have to bypass your in tank pump with a draw straw or something similar or remove the in tank pump and install a new pick up in the basket. with the raptor you should probably go with the draw straw or something similar.

i get a blank page. pure white.

so you are saying that cascade will work as a flush for the radiator and not harm anything in the cooling system. i need to do mine soon and that is good info to have.

welcome to the site.if you are not sure if you can see the pump just bump your stater without starting the engine, leave the switch on and you should be able to here it running under the hood. it will run for 15 to 20 seconds. if you cant hear it under the hood then listen under the truck near the fuel tank and see if you can here it there. i just replaced my in tank pump with an Air Dog. the intank pump is harder to hear than the engine mounted oe. the intank pump does not supply enogh pressure for the vp44.i am also thinking you have a 4:10 rear end which is not going to help your milage. definately check the other items first and see where you are on fuel supply. replacing pumps can get pricey also.

i just made a trip to and from Charleston SC. temp stayed just under the 190 mark the whole way. i dont know why it is working right now. iguess i will just be happy with it. hopefully she will h=not go back to her old ways.

i just paid 4 cents a gallon less the gas. in upstate SC. 3.75 vs 3.79. my wife has an 06 dakota with a 4.7 v8. it still cost me less in fuel than it does her due to the commins. highway is about the same at 19 mph. but she cant touch the 15 i get in town with the cummins. hers 3000 to 3500, mine 6500 to 7000. pounds that is.

I cleaned up all of my connections the other day when i charged the batteries. did not have time to test any thing though. seems to be working alright but have not had to crank on hard since i got her up and running after the ad install. not sure i trust the battery check at AZ. the batteries came from advance auto. i will let them check it out and see what they find. they are probably border line good and since its their warranty i bet they check out good. we shall see.

i dont have a load tester. i did bleed off the surface charge by turning on the high beems for a periond of time before checking the voltage. dont remeber how long think i read that in the haynes manual. Autozone tested the batteries and said they were good, but i am not convinced. we will ride it out a little whil and see what happens.

good to hear.

the fan is not locked up. you can hear it come on and off. it is hardly ever on.

i know about the gauge, but it is all i have to work with. i am using the mark between the 140 and 190 as 165. since it was new the gauge read just below 190 very constant. really cold weather would bring it down some especially intown. 3 years ago it dropped to the 165 mark and would fluctuate up a couple of needle widths and back down. i have been thru 6 tstats and one radiator cap and got some results with them but it would always go back to the 165 mark. i pu in a new napa tstat 3 weeks ago and drove from Hooker OK to Hickory NC, 1350 in 27 hours, 45 to 85 mph. the gauge was sitting at 165 and slightly above the whole trip. i just installed my ADII and the temp is back up to just below 190 and stays ther just like new. drops or a little in town and idling just like new. I like the results but would love to know what the AD install did to bring the temp back to normal. the only other thing i did was to remove the relay and the wiring harness for the old intank pump. cant figure out what either one could have to do with the temp.

would never do it differanly than bothat once.

kinda figured that. when i was in OK at 45* with 12.3 volts they wouldnot start it. might have turne 3 reveloutions before crapping out. but this morning here in NC with 12.15 volts at 50* it fired right off no problem. guess i will be getting some new ones soon. --- Update to the previous post... i got 6 years out my oe batteries and changed them out because they seemed to be getting a little weak, they never failed me though. there might be little warranty left have to check. they seem to work better after cleaning them up and charging them. but i agree with the bannana peel.

i recently left the key in my switch with the switch on. the next morning my batteries were dead. i mean stone cold dead the key in the switch bell would not ding. got it jumped of and as long as the air temp stayed above 45 she would start no problem. they definately do not have much reserve power in them. will draining them that low kill them? they are 4 years old from advance auto, silver

if i spin my tires on anything it will set a p500. it goes away pretty quick though. i would think it would be the same if you spun the front wheels. you have speed sensors front and one in the rear. all it takes is one of them seeing a differant speed than the others. i dont know wether the truck has to be running or not though to set the code.

wow! thats somehting there.

#1 i kinda figured the AD would have to have some resistance on the line to return fuel to the tank. withit pumping into the fuel can it seems there would be little resistance and return flow would have been minimal at best. my return line from the pump is fed straight into the basket thru the old supply outlet and not thru the filler neck. the engine return is thru the original return inlet. i would think AD did that to be sure there is always enough fuel in the basket to keep the pump fed. #2 i did try and start the engine and never got any fuel to the injectors. i think it was not able to get enough fuel with out sucking air. i put 8 gallons of fuel with the 4 already in the tank, got a steady stream of fuel and it started on the 2nd try:hyper:. the new fuel pick up in the basket is a 2 piece nylon tube with the joint right at the top of the basket, could be another source for sucking air. wish i had done that differantly. it is runnign fine right now and when the time is right i am going to see how low the tank wil go before running out. i have always been able to run my tank dry. i dont really want to end up with the 1/4 tank problems i have heard about. thanks for the info. by the way dou yu have any clue as to why installing this pump would have caused my engine to finally run at proper temp. i have battled my engine running between 165 and 170 for a long time. after the install my temp is right at 190 like it should be. tstat is new. been thru several trying to fis it.